grantmac

So I'd be looking at weekly servicing of my rear-end? Now keep in mind that I've never seen a panhard bar or heim joint but your idea with the rubber got me thinking. What if you just took a section of inner-tube from a bicycle and slipped it over the joint. Then used a zip-tie and some silicone to seal the bottom. After that just fill it up with something like motorcycle chain lube (really sticky aerosol lubricant) and zip-tie the top closed. The only problem I'd see with that would be if the lube ate the rubber of if the heim joint wore a hole in it, however I think the chain lube would prevent that.

Grant

P.S. Are heim joints fairly easy to find? And what are the costs like for a new set?

Rx7carl

I've heard of people using inner tube rubber to quiet the rod end bearings. They say it help alot. I dont know how clean they'll stay though, so it may or may not help that issue.

Tom

This is a great thread, guys. Suspension tuning and cause/effect is definately my weakest area in regards to shade/tree know how. It would be excellent to have a sticky right under power improvements with suggestions like these.

I personally believe handling to be as important as power (IMO).

Thanks!

Rx7carl

I agree Tom. I had planned on this already, you must be reading my mind. I am waiting for the power improvement thread to be played out first. Then we'll move onto suspension.

The_7

umm...any thoughts on the idea i already posted...twice?

Rx7carl

B, the poly will make it less roll compliant, leading to quicker binding. The purpose of drilling the upper link bushings is to soften them, so I dont think it would be as effective.

The_7

i was thinking that if you installed the nylock nuts and some lubricant on the bolt, the links would be able to pivot regardless of the bushing properties...

wecycle

I did full poly throughout and still use the larger SA rear sway bar.
I may change to spherical tension rod bushings, otherwise I am very happy with it.
I can make the rear step out if I want, but have not seen this "snap oversteer" that some report.
Maybe because I am only at about 115 hp or maybe I am just used to the X 1/9 so I don't notice it.
I run SM2 but am not competitive with the turbocharger Miatas, yet.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

Holy bringing back from the dead Batman. Epic 5 year bump.

I need to replace my bushings in my rear end because of galvanic interaction (the bolts fused to the brass inserts). My suspension binds, and it can be downright scary because of it. I'm going with Energy Suspension Poly Bushings because they are inexpensive compared to OEM Mazda bushings. I can deal with snap oversteer for the time being, as I don't have any place around me that I can run 9/10 or full out.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

i would like to put in the panhard from gforce, do you have to have the trilink? how(how much) does it improve it?

I'm getting respeed coilovers all around with 275 150, took out my rear sway bar, will put it back when i get a respeed front sway bar. Removing the rear sway bar greatly improved my driving at the limits.

Car will be mostly street use, but i want a better performing suspension. i will order tokico illumina's but don't have those yet.

will billy make something like gforce's?

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Thunkrd: how much do banging and clanking noises bother you? Because the panhard/tri link setup is LOUD. Transmits a ton of driveline noise from the diff, and is really noisy.
According to Jim you should run both the panhard and the Tri link to get the full effect.
Really up to you, for me its a bit much, but it does handle really well.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

oh... I didn't notice that it would cause that much noise.

i will just stay stock

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Yea its really a shame, handles great, but for street use its just too much banging and rattling, at least for my liking. Also transmits a lot of "whirring" noise from the diff since the tri link mounts directly to the top of it.