My car has been floodin quite a darn bit lately, so I'm going to install the ubiquitous kill switch to the fuel pump (They should have installed these at the factory.) Where is the fuel pump relay, specifically? I looked in the Haynes and it appears to have four wires coming from it, but I just need to know where to look and also, which wire to splice the switch into.

right on-

 

The switch that I have bought is rated for 3A at 125 V AC and 1A at 250 AC....does anyone know if this toggle will be ok for the fuel pump cutoff switch, considering that the fuse is to the fuel pump is rated at 20A? Don't want any fires starting in the dash of the mound.

Right on-

 

First off. That switch won't work. (Car is DC not AC)

Second: Pull your drivers side cubby hole (behind the driver seat) under there you will see a set of wires coming up through the floor (if you will) through a rubber gromet and into a clip (2 wire) about 4-6 inches away from the gromet. This is were the fuel pump connects to power. (Verify this by unplugging the clip and starting the car. The car will run for about a minute and then die due to fuel starvation.

Now, what I have done is get a 12v toggle switch from your local pep boys or automotive store and then run two wires (speaker wire will work) from the switch (whereever you mount it) to the cubby hole with the clip for the fuel pump is.

Now you have to use a multi-testor to find out which one of the two wires is the hot wire (one w/power) and the cut it (on either side of the clip, it doesn't matter.) I did mine on the side of the clip that runs toward the fuse box. Now you have one wire cut with two ends. Connect one cut side to one of the switch wires and the other cut side to the other switch wire.

Voila, you have now installed a cut off switch to the fuel pump.
So now you don't have to get out of the car to unflood it. Just flip the switch when it's flooded and crank and it'll start right up!

P.S. - this makes a good security measure as well (I turn mine off when I get out the car) therefore thieves won't be able to get far when the try to steal it.

 

A switch is a switch. It's just two metal contacts that touch or dont touch when you flip it. Hell, a light switch for a house would work. If the current rating is too low, then it'll melt if you turn it on. The proceedure is good though. And I believe that switch should work.

 

I ended up relacing the switch with on that is rated for 20amps at 12V DC. I wired to the hot wire leading to the fuse marked ENGINE. I did this because I was under the impression that this fuse controlled the fuel pump? Is that correct? The switch works great, and works at getting the flood cleared just fine. However, when I flip the switch the engine dies immediately. I was under the impression that the engine should run for a few seconds as the fuel clears out of the rails, but mine just dies immediately. This ENGINE fuse - does it control the spark also?

Right on-

 

Sure does. Along with the ECU, emissions sloenoids (If ya got em.) and other assorted, but related stuffs. FUel pump doesn't draw 20 Amps all on it's lonesome. That'd be one powerful pump.

 

So in order to cut only the fuel pump it is necessary to splice into the wire running to the fuel pump, in the drivers side storage bin? The way I have it set up now will unflood the engine, but I would rather have a switch to cut the fuel pump only, so that the engine will use all the gas in the lines and then die, instead of dying immediately. Dang.

Right on-

 

Are you sure the switch will solve the flooding problem? I flooded the POS Racer on Friday, disconnected the fuel pump, and still couldn't get it to start. Had to do the old dry out procedure to get it to fire.

 

Works for me everytime.

 

The way that I see it you would have to turn off the pump before it floods, what I would do is to find the cause of the problem (keep the switch it is a great security feature). I think you have a bad float sensor on the carb that is not shutting off the pump when the fuel bowl is full. Head down to the wreckers and grab a new sensor (it is on the drivers side of the carb connected to a single black wire) and put it in. The switch would only help flooding if you were able to turn it off when the engine starts to flood then turned it back on, a job the sensor should do for you.

Vic

 

Well don't I look like the town idiot here unless you have the only GSL-SE with a carb just ignore most of my answer.

Vic

 

Ive been thinking of putting in one of these for security reasons, stuff an alarm....I didnt know it had the extra effect of curing a flooding problem, sounds alot easier than the other trick, can anyone else verify this works??? Maybe MyRxBad has something different set up in his car as it dont die immediately

 

In simple terms, I just have one of the wires (hot wire) going to the fuel pump (and the fuel pump only) with a switch in it.

When the car is flooded, I shut the switch off (no power to the fuel pump) and crank the engine over. The car then starts after the fuel leans out enough and then while it's running I flick the switch back on and all is good.

I'll try and take some pics this weekend, to show you the wire I switched.