I went out to start spraying my suspension components with PB Blaster to make sure everything would come apart easily, and noticed this. Why would the tension rods be adjusted so much different? I don't see anything bent, and it seems to drive reasonably well. This can't be normal, can it? The picture with the large amount of space between the cotter pin and the nut is from the passenger's side.

Rich

 

If your wheels both sit in the same spot (front to back) assuming your fenders are straight, then your car could have had an accident with a curb at some point in time. The PO of my car drove it into a parking block and dinged the front mounting point of the tension rod. This was easily fixed and now my cars rods look as yours do, which made the wheel sit in line again. Its most likely either just adjusted wrong, or got hit so just go take a better look.

 

Well if I remember correctly, he is the original owner, so I doubt it has been in any accidents that he doesn't know about. Could have been adjusted wrong sometime in the past.

 

No, I'm not the original owner of this one...this is on my blown '85. I'm the original owner of my '79.

Rich

 

Bent lower arm, tension rods adjusted to correct the alignment. I'm guessing it's the passenger/curb side that is adjusted forward.

 

Maybe the bushings were just blown, so somebody tightened them up not knowing any better. According to Carl, those nuts should sit right at the cotter pin for standard alignment. If you decide to replace those bushings, check out p-s-t.com

 

Thanks Kentetsu...I have all the front end bushings on order from forum member bwaits (ReSpeed).

Rich

 

Can I remove the tension rods and sway bar as an assembly? Disconnect the sway bar end links and the tension rods from the control arms, remove the brackets at the other end of the tension arms, and drop the entire assembly?

Thanks,
Rich

 

The sway bar is fastened to the bracket with a removable U clip - one bolt on one side, and the other has a lip that slips into a slot on the bracket. I think if you remove the bolt and loosen the bracket the U clip and sway bar can be removed. I just removed all those components but I did not remove the clips separetely, which may have been easier.

I suppose if you can't get a wrench on the tension rod nut it might be an advantage to remove it as an assembly. Otherwise, I see no advantage in taking it out as an assembly.

I would think there are others that are more familiar with these components. ( I hope to re-assemble mine this week - new brackets were required on mine). Good luck.

 

Yes, that is often the easiest way. Leave the tension rods connected to the bracket, but break the tension rod nuts loose as your first step. Unbolt the rest and drop as a unit.

 

The top of the nut should look like a crown and not be flat. The cotter pin should be running across the nut in the grooves. Could be the wrong nut.

 

ive seen people use those tension rods to adjust the toe in