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I have a zero mile rebuilt 12A motor that's using a 1983-1985 rear iron. I'll be using a front mount oil cooler from a GSL-SE instead of the beehive. I was going to cap off the water outlet that use to go to the beehive. Instead I've decided to braze on a brass fitting so I can use an after market water temp gauge. Is there a standard size fitting I should use for this?
AutoMeter specifies a 1/8" NPT for thier senders. Just make sure you get the probe as deep into the block as you can, even if you need to shorten the tube you braze onto.
Isn't the supply to the beehive on the cold side of the radiator? If so, probably not where you want to measure the temperature.
I just put a mechanical water temperature gauge on my race car. It is a SunPro (cheap, but works fine). I put an adaptor that I got from ISC in the top radiator hose. I think is was about $30. You could also make one easily with a piece of properly sized tubing or pipe and the adaptors that come with the gauge. Mechanical gauges have a special fitting to accomodate the "bulb" on the end. I mounted the gauge in the dash hole where the clock used to be.
I also added a temperature switch to remind get my attention if the temp climbs quickly while in the heat of battle. I welded a pipe coupling to the stock thermostat housing. You could do the same for the mechanical gauge if you wanted.
I have a zero mile rebuilt 12A motor that's using a 1983-1985 rear iron. I'll be using a front mount oil cooler from a GSL-SE instead of the beehive. I was going to cap off the water outlet that use to go to the beehive. Instead I've decided to braze on a brass fitting so I can use an after market water temp gauge. Is there a standard size fitting I should use for this?
1/8" NPT for electric sender gauges and 3/8" NPT for mechanical probe gauges.
The SunPro mechanical gauge came with 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" adapters. I looked up AutoMeter and one of their's comes with 3/8" and 1/2". You need the adapters to get the bulb to seal properly. As far as I know, all mechanical gauges need the same adapter. It appears that you can also get the adapters in metric sizes. They are shown on Amazon, but no details of the metric thread sizes. I have seen them installed in the back of the water pump housing where the temperature switch that controls the choke is installed.
Isn't the supply to the beehive on the cold side of the radiator? If so, probably not where you want to measure the temperature.
I just put a mechanical water temperature gauge on my race car. It is a SunPro (cheap, but works fine). I put an adaptor that I got from ISC in the top radiator hose. I think is was about $30. You could also make one easily with a piece of properly sized tubing or pipe and the adaptors that come with the gauge. Mechanical gauges have a special fitting to accomodate the "bulb" on the end. I mounted the gauge in the dash hole where the clock used to be.
I also added a temperature switch to remind get my attention if the temp climbs quickly while in the heat of battle. I welded a pipe coupling to the stock thermostat housing. You could do the same for the mechanical gauge if you wanted.
Carl
I've had seconds thought about using the beehive. I bought the iEquss gauges as suggested by other members. They look great and are the right price at ~$50 for the Volts, Water Temp, and Oil Pressure. The water temp is mechanical and uses a 3/8 or 1/2 NPT (both are in the kit). I found a 3/8 NPT plug in the lower left side of the front iron that opens up in to the water jacket. Would this be a good place to put the probe? I could use one of my old school water necks that has a place to tap a 3/8 hole like Ray did, but I'd like to keep things simple if possible.
That plug isn't worth using. It's to hard to get to.
This is what I finally used. This is a mid 1970's 12A water neck. They didn't come with a hole where the sensor is but it's aluminum and really easy to drill and tap. I powder coated mine.
Last edited by KansasCityREPU; Nov 6, 2015 at 09:56 PM.