what offset do i want on wheels?
04-04-05, 04:04 PM
#1
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what offset do i want on wheels?
Sorry, i guess i should know this by now but i am talking with Team Dynamics wheel supplier and they asked me the question. I want 15 inch or 16 inch, they are both 7 inches wide. I just want them to fit like the kosei wheels. Thanks for any help..... god bless
04-04-05, 04:39 PM
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My Kosei K1s (15x7) have a 27mm offset, I have a GSL-SE. They clear everything nicely. I have coil overs on the front. There is very little clearance between the spring perch and the inside wall of the tires. I get a little bit of a rub on the stock wheels with stock size tires (GSL-SE)
04-05-05, 01:06 AM
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I have 17x7" wheels on my SE with 40mm offset NO RUBBING AT ALL with 205-40-17 all around.
my old 16x7.5" wheels with 35mm offset rubbed over bumps and turing with the same 205-40-16 tires.
my old 16x7.5" wheels with 35mm offset rubbed over bumps and turing with the same 205-40-16 tires.
04-05-05, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryAXer
My Kosei K1s (15x7) have a 27mm offset, I have a GSL-SE. They clear everything nicely. I have coil overs on the front. There is very little clearance between the spring perch and the inside wall of the tires. I get a little bit of a rub on the stock wheels with stock size tires (GSL-SE)
Do you have a widebody kit?
04-05-05, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by smnc
Most people with 7" rims on -SE's seem to have in the 35-42mm range.
Do you have a widebody kit?
Do you have a widebody kit?
Nope no widebody.
The difference between 35 and 27 is less than half an inch.
Tirerack first sent me a set of wheels with 38mm offset (stock wheels at 14x5.5 have 38mm offset and they forgot to adjust for the increased width) that didn't even go on the car without tires. The inner lip interfered with the the spring perch. I have coil overs. However, there is no way even with stock springs and perches that there wouldn't have been interference, at least with the tire.
Here is a picture of my car with 15x7 Kosei K1s with Hoosier GAC tires 205/50/15.
No need for flairs even. However, the rear fender lips have been rolled.
04-05-05, 07:35 PM
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Is that the GSL-SE bolt pattern with a 27mm off set???
My 16x7's with a 28mm off set on the 12a bolt pattern are right at the inside of the fender, that extra 12mm that -SE pattern needs would put my tire right into the fender... or mabey I'm just retarded.
Ryan
My 16x7's with a 28mm off set on the 12a bolt pattern are right at the inside of the fender, that extra 12mm that -SE pattern needs would put my tire right into the fender... or mabey I'm just retarded.
Ryan
Originally Posted by RotaryAXer
Nope no widebody.
04-05-05, 07:37 PM
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Are you running the 12a or 13b bolt pattern.
27-28mm for the 12a
38-40mm for the 13b
27-28mm for the 12a
38-40mm for the 13b
Originally Posted by boog
Sorry, i guess i should know this by now but i am talking with Team Dynamics wheel supplier and they asked me the question. I want 15 inch or 16 inch, they are both 7 inches wide. I just want them to fit like the kosei wheels. Thanks for any help..... god bless
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04-05-05, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by moremazda
Is that the GSL-SE bolt pattern with a 27mm off set???
I'm not sure what else to say. It works for me.
Again, I have rolled the rear fender lips. I guess I also have more negative camber than stock on the front that probably helps some. I have 400 lb/in springs in front also that limits how much the wheels move up over bumps and what not. The real key is that the car is also super low. So all of these thing really shouldn't make a huge difference over stock.
04-05-05, 07:56 PM
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That's weird, I've got 2.9 deg camber in front with 350 lbs springs. My wheels don't rub at all but, that 10-13mm differance would cause interferance.
Originally Posted by RotaryAXer
YES.
I'm not sure what else to say. It works for me.
Again, I have rolled the rear fender lips. I guess I also have more negative camber than stock on the front that probably helps some. I have 400 lb/in springs in front also that limits how much the wheels move up over bumps and what not. The real key is that the car is also super low. So all of these thing really shouldn't make a huge difference over stock.
I'm not sure what else to say. It works for me.
Again, I have rolled the rear fender lips. I guess I also have more negative camber than stock on the front that probably helps some. I have 400 lb/in springs in front also that limits how much the wheels move up over bumps and what not. The real key is that the car is also super low. So all of these thing really shouldn't make a huge difference over stock.
04-05-05, 08:57 PM
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Umm... I know I haven't slept a lot lately, so maybe I'm delerious, but....
+27mm offset sits closer to the struts that +38mm offset
If the +38mm hit the springs, then the +27mm should fit even worse...
That's why I figured you were running somthing wierd...
Or am I just way to tired?
+27mm offset sits closer to the struts that +38mm offset
If the +38mm hit the springs, then the +27mm should fit even worse...
That's why I figured you were running somthing wierd...
Or am I just way to tired?
Originally Posted by RotaryAXer
Nope no widebody.
The difference between 35 and 27 is less than half an inch.
Tirerack first sent me a set of wheels with 38mm offset (stock wheels at 14x5.5 have 38mm offset and they forgot to adjust for the increased width) that didn't even go on the car without tires. The inner lip interfered with the the spring perch. I have coil overs. However, there is no way even with stock springs and perches that there wouldn't have been interference, at least with the tire.
Here is a picture of my car with 15x7 Kosei K1s with Hoosier GAC tires 205/50/15.
No need for flairs even. However, the rear fender lips have been rolled.
The difference between 35 and 27 is less than half an inch.
Tirerack first sent me a set of wheels with 38mm offset (stock wheels at 14x5.5 have 38mm offset and they forgot to adjust for the increased width) that didn't even go on the car without tires. The inner lip interfered with the the spring perch. I have coil overs. However, there is no way even with stock springs and perches that there wouldn't have been interference, at least with the tire.
Here is a picture of my car with 15x7 Kosei K1s with Hoosier GAC tires 205/50/15.
No need for flairs even. However, the rear fender lips have been rolled.
04-06-05, 08:27 AM
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Well, I'm confused now.
Diamond Racing Wheels definition agrees with smnc.
http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/TermsOffset.htm
I'm really not sure if it is positive or negative offset on my wheels. If negative this all makes sense.
Can anyone confirm if an -SE requires negative or positive offset.
Diamond Racing Wheels definition agrees with smnc.
http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/TermsOffset.htm
I'm really not sure if it is positive or negative offset on my wheels. If negative this all makes sense.
Can anyone confirm if an -SE requires negative or positive offset.
04-06-05, 08:47 AM
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Well, with a lot of things there is obviously more than one way to define offset. No good concrete definition is available. It appears that SAE defines it as positive with the centerline inboard of the hub face and negative the opposite.
It is my opinion that the -SE with a 7" wide wheel will have the centerline of the wheel closer to the center of the car than the hub face. Hence, making the distance between the centerline and the hub face smaller will move the wheel outward. This means that according to the SAE definition it is positive.
It is my opinion that the -SE with a 7" wide wheel will have the centerline of the wheel closer to the center of the car than the hub face. Hence, making the distance between the centerline and the hub face smaller will move the wheel outward. This means that according to the SAE definition it is positive.
04-06-05, 12:57 PM
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I'm a little better rested today:
There is only one way to define offset.
It is the distance between the centerline of a wheel and the inside face of the wheel hub, measured in milimetres (mm).
If the hub is outboard of the centerline, it is positive offset.
If the hub in inboard of the centerline it is negative offset.
Stock GSL-SE rims are 5.5" rims with a +38mm offset. This translates into 4.75" of backspace (the distance between the inboard wheel rim and the hub face).
This leaves a about 1" of space between the wheel and strut/coil.
Most guys running a 7" rim tend to run stock offset (+38mm) with thier rims. This translates into 5.5" of backspace and reduces cleaance to about .25". Once you take into acount tires, and 20 years worth of wear and tear, some guys start to rub with this configuration.
With 7" rims and a +27 offset, the hub is closer to the centerline and therefore the whole wheel sits farther outboard and would give better clearance. It works out to about 5.1" of backspace which gives close to .5" of additional clearance.
So in otherwords, just ignore my second post....
But tou haven't had any problems with the fronts hitting the fenders?
I'm impressed...
There is only one way to define offset.
It is the distance between the centerline of a wheel and the inside face of the wheel hub, measured in milimetres (mm).
If the hub is outboard of the centerline, it is positive offset.
If the hub in inboard of the centerline it is negative offset.
Stock GSL-SE rims are 5.5" rims with a +38mm offset. This translates into 4.75" of backspace (the distance between the inboard wheel rim and the hub face).
This leaves a about 1" of space between the wheel and strut/coil.
Most guys running a 7" rim tend to run stock offset (+38mm) with thier rims. This translates into 5.5" of backspace and reduces cleaance to about .25". Once you take into acount tires, and 20 years worth of wear and tear, some guys start to rub with this configuration.
With 7" rims and a +27 offset, the hub is closer to the centerline and therefore the whole wheel sits farther outboard and would give better clearance. It works out to about 5.1" of backspace which gives close to .5" of additional clearance.
So in otherwords, just ignore my second post....
But tou haven't had any problems with the fronts hitting the fenders?
I'm impressed...
04-06-05, 12:59 PM
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BTW, the diamond site is wrong.
Go here instead...
http://home.planet.nl/~Jennit/Techni...els/wheels.htm
Go here instead...
http://home.planet.nl/~Jennit/Techni...els/wheels.htm
04-06-05, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by smnc
tion.
With 7" rims and a +27 offset, the hub is closer to the centerline and therefore the whole wheel sits farther outboard and would give better clearance. It works out to about 5.1" of backspace which gives close to .5" of additional clearance.
I'm impressed...
With 7" rims and a +27 offset, the hub is closer to the centerline and therefore the whole wheel sits farther outboard and would give better clearance. It works out to about 5.1" of backspace which gives close to .5" of additional clearance.
I'm impressed...
04-06-05, 02:01 PM
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I don't mean to hi-jack but wanted to put 17*8 on my 81...is it possible? If so what would be the maximum offset I would want to have...I have the 5 lug wheel adaptors as well...just something to keep in mine...thanks
04-06-05, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Lee Lyons
I don't mean to hi-jack but wanted to put 17*8 on my 81...is it possible? If so what would be the maximum offset I would want to have...I have the 5 lug wheel adaptors as well...just something to keep in mine...thanks
04-07-05, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by smnc
You're probably going to need a widebody kit. I don't think that'll fit without it...
04-07-05, 08:27 PM
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17x7 will work with the proper tires. 205/40/17. 40mm offset. there are guys on othis board running that. think of it this way. a 17x7 is just like a 15x7, as long as you choose the right tires.
04-07-05, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by nick1
17x7 will work with the proper tires. 205/40/17. 40mm offset. there are guys on othis board running that. think of it this way. a 17x7 is just like a 15x7, as long as you choose the right tires.