What happens if I block??
#5
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Also get rid of the death filter and get a proper filter. The beehives came with the smaller half sized filters. I like the Bosch myself in terms of being closest to stock IMO* for beehive.
#8
Stu-Tron Get Yo Groove On
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There is a line on the rear iron, on S1 and S2 cars it was just a straight pipe, on S3 it was dual outlet. I am not to sure on this as I have never had a beehive car, but what I think is that the beehive gets the coolant from the heater core, then dumps back into the T in the rear iron.
#9
MattG FTW!!!!!
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If you want that motor to last I would suggest you DO NOT block those. That is where the water runs through to cool the oil.
I cant find a good pic that shows the lay out of the water lines. I will keep looking and when I find one I will post it
I cant find a good pic that shows the lay out of the water lines. I will keep looking and when I find one I will post it
#10
I hate drum brakes
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Top bung on the beehive attaches to the lower outlet on the radiator via a metal line that runs along the firewall and right frame rail. The bottom bung of the beehive attaches to the fitting on the rear iron that the heater core attaches to (my 83 had a double ended bung on the iron, but my new engine has a single bung, so I don't have heater currently, but a t-fitting from the iron bung could solve this.)
#11
Top bung on the beehive attaches to the lower outlet on the radiator via a metal line that runs along the firewall and right frame rail. The bottom bung of the beehive attaches to the fitting on the rear iron that the heater core attaches to (my 83 had a double ended bung on the iron, but my new engine has a single bung, so I don't have heater currently, but a t-fitting from the iron bung could solve this.)
I dont have a heater either so your setup is pretty much the same as mine.
If you see this picture, I believe that I only need to hook the top bung on the beehive to the lower outlet on the rad?
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