What driveshaff to use with TII trans
06-15-11, 02:04 PM
#26
I think my original statement about the FC auto yolk will be fine. I did not use the Rockford u-joint. All I did was grind off the stakes on the S3 yolk. Removed the S3 yolk. Replaced the S3 yolk with the FC auto yolk. Put driveshaft in a lathe. Centered the runout and put two tack welds at each u-joint cap. I have had my car upwards of 145 mph (don't really no how fast, the 130 speedo was about an inch past) WITHOUT any vibration. If I finally get over the 500hp mark, and I break a driveshaft, then I might get one made.
Why make things so costly and overcomplicated when there are simpler and more cost effective ways
06-15-11, 02:09 PM
#27
Mr. September FB 2011
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Well, all my car does is race. It doesn't get any lazy street time. The gas is either on or off and rarely anywhere in between.
Don't know about 400hp but my car gets GPS'd on the track at well over 140mph.
Not vibrationless by any means but I think it has more to do with the tires/spacers than anything.
That being said, these cars should not do any more than 100mph. They tend to want to drift even with decent aero package.
Don't know about 400hp but my car gets GPS'd on the track at well over 140mph.
Not vibrationless by any means but I think it has more to do with the tires/spacers than anything.
That being said, these cars should not do any more than 100mph. They tend to want to drift even with decent aero package.
06-15-11, 06:40 PM
#29
I spoke with Dave(owner at mazdatrix) today. I found out that because I have the aftermarket driveshaft from mazdatrix I can't use a OEM auto fc yolk. It would work fine if I had an OEM driveshaft, but I don't.
They're aftermarket driveshaft is different. It has different u joints which are more common(from chryslers). He had just what I needed for the aftermarket driveshaft. A custom yolk made to fit it and a t2 output shaft.
I'm with bad83 on this one. He's making plenty of power and like he said he hasn't had any problems.
They're aftermarket driveshaft is different. It has different u joints which are more common(from chryslers). He had just what I needed for the aftermarket driveshaft. A custom yolk made to fit it and a t2 output shaft.
I'm with bad83 on this one. He's making plenty of power and like he said he hasn't had any problems.
06-15-11, 10:12 PM
#30
35r 13b first gen
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Good deal.
I hope I dont run into any issues with my driveshaft or u joints being too weak... The rear end will probably be the weak link if i would have to guess...
I hope I dont run into any issues with my driveshaft or u joints being too weak... The rear end will probably be the weak link if i would have to guess...
10-20-11, 07:39 PM
#32
Chad Carson
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rotoryfan@gmail.com
Thanks
10-21-11, 12:31 AM
#33
35r 13b first gen
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After the above information I now have the same setup in my 85 gs. although i was running a 12a turbo with 8 lbs and s5 t2 trans.... now i will have a 13bt next summer with 450-500whp... we will see how she hold up.. also have moser alxes with 5 lug conversion... i think all im missing is a kaaz.
07-21-13, 11:21 PM
#34
35r 13b first gen
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Snapped the Rockford u joint first attempt at a burnout... Only about 200 miles on the joint.... What to do now... Custom shaft of try to find a stronger u joint like the Rockford one...
07-22-13, 12:17 AM
#35
S4 13bt engine with supporting mods for ~250whp
S4 13bt transmission
S4 13bt slip yoke
Custom 2.5" steel driveshaft
S3 rear flange
S3 rear differential (open currently, will be welded soon)
Wasn't in the realm of cheap but it comes with a 12mo warranty and greasable and rebuildable u-joints. Said to hold around the 500whp mark.
Got it from Proven Force here in Maple Grove, Minnesota. Was a very short turn around time and they were awesome guys to deal with - highly recommended.
07-27-20, 02:49 PM
#37
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Do I have to modify the tail for the GSL-SE?
hi there!!! I’m looking foward to install this setup but just what to confirm if I have to install the tail (shifter ROD) from the 85 to the turbo 2 trans.
thanks a lot!AN
thanks a lot!AN
Originally Posted by ;10666688
My 13bt FB has:
GSL-SE Rear
S4 Turbo II Trans
GSL-SE D/S
GSL-SE Rear Flange
S4 Automatic Front Yoke
Rockford Driveline 430-10A U-Joints
Total cost: $30 for joints and $50 for balancing.
Holds my race car with slicks and Raceport w/ 15lbs of boost
GSL-SE Rear
S4 Turbo II Trans
GSL-SE D/S
GSL-SE Rear Flange
S4 Automatic Front Yoke
Rockford Driveline 430-10A U-Joints
Total cost: $30 for joints and $50 for balancing.
Holds my race car with slicks and Raceport w/ 15lbs of boost
08-26-20, 07:34 PM
#39
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Help - driveshaft
o i went whit the AUTO FC YOKE whit the GSL-SE driveshaft but the holes of both parts are different.
I buy the Universal Joint Moog 315G for the AUTO FC YOKE and don’t no what to do.
thanks
AN
08-26-20, 07:37 PM
#40
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[QUOTE=zaridar;10832103]After the above information I now have the same setup in my 85 gs. although i was running a 12a turbo with 8 lbs and s5 t2 trans.... now i will have a 13bt next summer with 450-500whp... we will see how she hold up.. also have moser alxes with 5 lug conversion... i think all im missing is a kaaz.[/o
i went whit the AUTO FC YOKE whit the GSL-SE driveshaft but the holes of both parts are different.
I buy the Universal Joint Moog 315G for the AUTO FC YOKE and don’t no what to do.
thanks
AN
i went whit the AUTO FC YOKE whit the GSL-SE driveshaft but the holes of both parts are different.
I buy the Universal Joint Moog 315G for the AUTO FC YOKE and don’t no what to do.
thanks
AN
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