I currently have a stock GSL-SE (my daily) with the exception of a collected RB header, 2.5 glass pack, and 2.5 universal dual tip muffler.

I have a weber 48ida with manifold I bought a while ago (not installed) and have been thinking about installing it in quest of more power. My question is... How frequently do you guys adjust your carbs? Every season? How drastic does the weather affect any settings I would have dialed in? I don't mind spending the extra cash in a wideband. I wanted to get a feel where people are coming from who owns a ida. Thanks!!!

 

Off the shelf, old school IDAs have VW specs so it needs a lil tweaking to work well with RX. I tune by feel so i dont use wideband or whatever. Before instLling it, write down the specs such as jets venturies and such then bring it over.

 

Thanks Wacky! Its a old school Italian. I still need to block the injection holes, and need regulation of my EFI pump.

 

i spent a long time tuning mine, but since then i haven't touched it.

wacky's way works, actually i think i did mine the same except i used a wideband to second guess the butt dyno.

 

Sweet j9fd3s. I guess it isn't as bad as people talk down about carbs. All I know is that they suck (more air lol) and out perform the stock set up.

 

i like the EFI, the engine still runs when you turn... people think carbs suck; because they do when there is more than one of them, and then most people aren't very good at making the engine happy. they want a list of jets and expect that to work 100%, when really its a starting point and you need to go richer and leaner and see what the engine likes. my P port is a happy little engine and the jets in the carb are WAY different than the list in the competition book.

the best tuning advise i've ever seen is to give the engine what it wants. on an NA, you (ideally) start too rich and then go too lean, and then go back to where the engine runs the best.

with the weber you start with the idle circuit. you should even pull the main jet stack out, go too rich and then go too lean, put the main jets back in, and then again go too rich and then go lean.

the only caution is that you wanna get to max power, and then go a little richer. a little extra fuel is safer, even on an NA.

 

Nice, Thanks for your input!

I'm not really asking for specifics, but roughly what range of fuel/air jets, emulsion tubes, needle valves should i have on hand to tune? This is what racing beat recommends as a starting point for a stock 6 port. How many larger/smaller sizes of each should I purchase?

Thank you guys for putting up with my newbie questions. As you can see, I try not to make many new posts because the search button has been my best friend lol.

 

So im in the same boat also... Ive got a 13b 6 port which is stock with a 48 IDA.. ive made some 2" headers which go into 3" system..

my setup at present is

Weber 48 IDA
40mm venturis
F-ll Emulsion Tubes
195 fuel jets
160 air jets
65 F10 idle jets
300 Needle

And i am having real real trouble with it running and not killing my eyes from burnt fuel or not...

Can anyone suggest some quick tips onb whats the best to do when changing jets and what you usually do when starting fresh on a motor with a 48 ida.. Ive never owned a carb'd engine as this is all new to me..

cheers

 

step one is to look down the carb with the engine running, if you're looking at the boosters, at idle they shouldn't be dripping, if they are the float level is too high. basically the float needs to be as high as possible without dripping. once you have that figured out, you start with the idle mixture.

basically you want it just when it idles the best, going richer will just smell worse, and going leaner the idle will get "weak" it'll idle, but stall easily. the next step is the transition circuit, the easy way to do this is to pull the whole main jet stack out and go for a drive, be careful though, as you only get 2000ish RPM and 30% throttle. the mixture here is controlled by the idle jet, 65 is in the ballpark but you might try 60, and 70. leaner the better here, leaner than 15:1 it'll probably buck/surge, 14-14.5:1 is pretty ideal, 13:1 might make a little extra torque, 12.5:1 or richer, it might loose power again, and it'll stink and mileage will be bad. i give the mixture numbers as examples, you can use an o2 sensor, but if you run it too lean and then too rich, it'll be pretty obvious what works.

the third step is to put the main stack back in and see how it goes, the main fuel jet meters the total amount of fuel, but the emulsion tube and air jet control WHEN the fuel shows up. smaller air corrector = the main circuit coming on faster, and a bigger one will have it coming on slower. if its too fast OR too slow, the car will bog in the 1800-2500rpm range, i had to try a few with mine, 160 seems big, but its not the number, its whatever the engine is happy with.

i've never tried a different E tube, in my case i run an F7, so i'm not exactly sure what a different one would do. i think you should be able to get the E11 to work ok, but if not i would try an F8. there is a chart of E tube to engine size, and the 654cc chambered 13B is an F8 (you should double check)

so when the main comes on right, then you should try a couple of different main jets, 195 seems like it should be in the ballpark, but it doesn't hurt to try a little richer and a little leaner. the mixture the power chart is close to the one for the idle jet, except that you probably want to find the max power mixture and then be a little richer.

oh and tune for max power on the coldest day, as the air will be denser.

if you still wanna keep playing, try a 42mm venturi

have fun!

 

All good.

 

Freak'n awesome! This is great info all of us can use!