twigg

i have a 48DCOE web carb and it lets me goto 6500 rpm if i VERY VERY lightly tap the throtlle, but if i really trying to give it any gas what so ever, like litterally 7% throttle out of 100% is all i can push it, if i give it more it boggs out and no power is gained and makes a awefull WAWA BABABWBABWBAWABWBAWB sound lol. I cant afford to take it to a mech. anyone have some suggestions? thanks.

paulied3

I had a dcoe that i bought from a speed shop and ended up sueing them
for this condition. it also habitually leaked gas. I ended up putting in a
holley

twigg

mine doesnt leak gas at all, it was put on by my mech here and then the next day these symptoms started. i paid $60/hr for him to fix it, and the problem happened agin and he wont do it for free, so im kinda stuck, its weird i can goto 6000 rpm slowly with lightly holding the gas, but when i wanna open it, it just makes that BRRAAAAAAA sound and looses all power. Ive had nothing but problems sence i got this from rotaryshack

twigg

also my mechs reason for not fixing it for free after it has the same symptoms after i get it back a day later, he says it needs new venturies, i paid $600 in labor for him to fix the carb. im just sick.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Try using smaller venturies if it bogs on top-end, then work from there. My rule of thumb is to work on low-end first, then top-end. No matter where you buy the carb, it will NEVER be perfect. In fact, I had to do several adjustments even on used carbs that were originally used on rotary engines. There are no 2 engines that are alike and what works for you may not work for me. Im not associated with RotaryShack but just giving my $0.02.

BlastinSideways12A

First lets start with basics, what kind of fuel pump are you using, is the pump any good? Are you using a fuel pressure regulator? What is it set at? I run 3 psi on my DCOE 48. I think you may be having an issue with fuel pressure. (thats only one of my ideas but lets start with that)

Also, take the air filter off, look down the barrels, and look for a little number on the venturis and let me know what the number is.

MOST IMPORTANTLY, don't let any Holley guys talk you out of a Weber, Webers ROCK (once you get them figured out and tuned right)

*Actually I have nothing against Holleys or the people who use them.

twigg

i got a n ew carter fuel pump , new fuel filter, new direct fire 2nd gen coils, and new plugs

BlastinSideways12A

Are you using a fuel pressure regulator and if so what is the fuel pressure set at?

twigg

i was told i wouldnt need a regulator.

twigg

the carter pump is 3 psi and i had this same problem with the STOCK fuel pump and it changed nothing when i replaced it with the carter

680RWHP12A

the stock pump was good enough... thats why the carter pump did not fix anything and with the carter pump you do not need a fpr... your venturi size is 40mm wich is perfect for your setup..
sounds like you need bigger accelerator pump squirters... or try setting the float level a little higher.... wich emulsion tubes did you end up with.... f11 will richen up the bottom end to reduce the bogging......

twigg

do i accually open it up and carefully bend the floater higher up? and i dunno wtf emulsion tubes are =\

twigg

all i know is mazsport charged me $600 in labor + tax too , and it ran OK not well enough for 600 bucks, and i brough it to them allready installed. They just put new throttle brackets and the oil pump lever and i guess "tuned" the carb, now that ive changed all ignition, and fuel stuff i still can open the throttle more than 10% without a BRARARABRABRABRABR noise with no power gain. $1000 for the carb and manafold + ship, then $600 more to get it working right, ..... so really around $1900 later (i could of bought another FB with that) i dunno what todo, there arent any Carburator people here for RX7's except mazsport and i dont feel they gave me a fair deal.

im starting to hate weber's. Even though my weber on my 1979 landcrusier runs wonderfull right out the box.

any carb guru's that can figure this out would be HIGHLY apprecaited

680RWHP12A

yes, bend the tabs on the float down to raise the float level...


open the cap covering the jets, remove one of the larger jet holders that you see and read the number off the side, thats the emulsion tube...


have you tuned the car with a wideband meter too see if the car is lean or rich?

twigg

ive got my weber diagram here, what do i adujust besides the idle mix screws to adjust lean/rich, isnt it counter clock is leaner, clockwise is richer ? ... let me go read the # off the jets

twigg

BTW mazsport said they put new jets in they said the jets it came with were the wrong ones. im going now to see the #'s on em

680RWHP12A

thats how you adjust the idle mixture

screw it clockwise = leaner, counter clockwise= richer

twigg

65f9

twigg

thats the only imprint on the jet

twigg

i mean the car idles good, it goes BOP BOP BOP BOP BOP at 900 rpm, will ride smooth up to 6000 if i barely hold the throttle in, but right whn it opens up, it looses power and sounds like lawn mower about to blow up

680RWHP12A

thats the idle jet, take out the other one, with the hole in the middle

twigg

is that the larger bottom right one?

twigg

bottom left only thing i see written is F11, so i guess ill take the bottom right one out

twigg

bottom right says the same

my diagram

o o <-- both only say 65f9
O O <-- both only say F11

twigg

maybe if i take a crow bar and beat it for awhile it will run agin.