Turn the ignition key but nothing happens.
11-14-09, 05:39 PM
#1
Almost not rotarded
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Troy, Missouri
Posts: 961
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Turn the ignition key but nothing happens.
it was running fine then she got in went to start it and it would even try uz turn over now it won't make any noise at all when i turn the key. is it the starter?
11-14-09, 07:29 PM
#3
Almost not rotarded
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Troy, Missouri
Posts: 961
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
that's kinda what i was thinkin but there's a bracket on the drivers side with a cable that runs to the carb that would move ever time we would try to start it but now that doesn't even move or make noise
11-14-09, 08:04 PM
#5
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: "Haystack" Hayward, CA
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Sounds like you're Seven got jealous that you're passing her off to your wife... lol
Jokes aside, what cable? Pictures please? and also oil covered connections wouldn't really cause that much of an issue electrically.
Jokes aside, what cable? Pictures please? and also oil covered connections wouldn't really cause that much of an issue electrically.
11-14-09, 08:16 PM
#6
Basic 101 checking first here guys!
1-Pull the cables off of the battery and clean the cable ends and the battery posts.
2-If that does nothing then try jumping the battery. Make sure that you attach the negative booster cable to the alternator bracket or other suitable ground.... not at the negative side of the jumped battery.
3-Do you now get power or maybe it turns over slowly?
4-If so then if you have another battery that will fit from another vehicle then put it in and see what happens. If not take the battery to your local auto parts store and have it charged and tested.
Report after all of the above.
1-Pull the cables off of the battery and clean the cable ends and the battery posts.
2-If that does nothing then try jumping the battery. Make sure that you attach the negative booster cable to the alternator bracket or other suitable ground.... not at the negative side of the jumped battery.
3-Do you now get power or maybe it turns over slowly?
4-If so then if you have another battery that will fit from another vehicle then put it in and see what happens. If not take the battery to your local auto parts store and have it charged and tested.
Report after all of the above.
Last edited by Rx-7Doctor; 11-14-09 at 08:20 PM.
Trending Topics
11-15-09, 11:42 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Delhi, CA
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
battery polarity
Be sure you use the correct polarity when jumping and?or replacing the battery. If you need to replace the cables I suggest using RED for positive. If your & has the aluminum cables it is very common to have corrosion inside the plastic cable jacket where you can't see it. You would need a VOM to test for this.
11-15-09, 11:43 PM
#9
1. Turn on headligts + high beams to confirm the battery has power and is connected. If all is good with the lights, then
2. I like to begin checking at the starter solenoid - check the small black wire connected to the starter solenoid. It should have power when the key is turned to "start." I find mine has come loose sometimes when I am working under the hood, pulling on other hoses and cables.
Good luck.
2. I like to begin checking at the starter solenoid - check the small black wire connected to the starter solenoid. It should have power when the key is turned to "start." I find mine has come loose sometimes when I am working under the hood, pulling on other hoses and cables.
Good luck.
11-16-09, 01:55 AM
#10
^ Not good test sorry!
Biggest mistake people make is assuming that because the headlamps and radio come on that the battery must be good.
It takes very little amperage to power those items but takes between 90-115 amps for the starter and the voltage cannot drop below 10.2 volts when cranking.
Biggest mistake people make is assuming that because the headlamps and radio come on that the battery must be good.
It takes very little amperage to power those items but takes between 90-115 amps for the starter and the voltage cannot drop below 10.2 volts when cranking.
11-16-09, 07:41 AM
#11
^ Not good test sorry!
Biggest mistake people make is assuming that because the headlamps and radio come on that the battery must be good.
It takes very little amperage to power those items but takes between 90-115 amps for the starter and the voltage cannot drop below 10.2 volts when cranking.
Biggest mistake people make is assuming that because the headlamps and radio come on that the battery must be good.
It takes very little amperage to power those items but takes between 90-115 amps for the starter and the voltage cannot drop below 10.2 volts when cranking.
11-16-09, 08:18 PM
#13
The Alternator is a cause and affect issue. Meaning if you had a issue with the Alternator not charging properly then it would of course drain the battery.
People always "Assume" a particular problem when they are not qualified or knowledgeable on the subject!
The key is to always follow basic diagnostic procedures first by checking the most common............. Then proceed to other areas once these "Common" things have been eliminated.
People always "Assume" a particular problem when they are not qualified or knowledgeable on the subject!
The key is to always follow basic diagnostic procedures first by checking the most common............. Then proceed to other areas once these "Common" things have been eliminated.
11-16-09, 11:06 PM
#14
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
also make shure the trigger wire is still attached, a forum member had that problem a few months ago. I went to his house to help him find the problem took about 2 minutes to figure it out. problem was he didn't tighten the starter down alot and it must of vibrated off. we sinched the bolts down pluged it back in and walla.
11-17-09, 04:45 PM
#15
Almost not rotarded
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Troy, Missouri
Posts: 961
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so i had my wife give my car a push with her suv to see if i could pop start it and it would pop start but after a couple attempts it started right up. but now that we've got her truck legal im gonna park the 7 for the winter and try to get some things fixed on it.
11-17-09, 06:19 PM
#16
The Alternator is a cause and affect issue. Meaning if you had a issue with the Alternator not charging properly then it would of course drain the battery.
People always "Assume" a particular problem when they are not qualified or knowledgeable on the subject!
The key is to always follow basic diagnostic procedures first by checking the most common............. Then proceed to other areas once these "Common" things have been eliminated.
People always "Assume" a particular problem when they are not qualified or knowledgeable on the subject!
The key is to always follow basic diagnostic procedures first by checking the most common............. Then proceed to other areas once these "Common" things have been eliminated.
11-23-09, 01:54 PM
#18
Fighting Global Cooling
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Posts: 983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes.
Another thing to check is just tap the starter with a hammer lightly to see if it might just be stuck. Otherwise, if the car is a automatic, try putting the car in neutral or back into park again. If this doesnt work or anything anyone else suggested, just buy a new starter, theyre not that expensive from http://www.blackdragonauto.com
Another thing to check is just tap the starter with a hammer lightly to see if it might just be stuck. Otherwise, if the car is a automatic, try putting the car in neutral or back into park again. If this doesnt work or anything anyone else suggested, just buy a new starter, theyre not that expensive from http://www.blackdragonauto.com
11-23-09, 01:58 PM
#19
yes it will. What you need to do depends on what year the 2nd gen alt is. Easiest way is to search. There are a couple threads in the archive that detail the 2nd gen alt installation. In addition, you can also search under my name and using 'alt' or 'alternator' as search terms. I have mentioned the differences between the rx-7 alternators many times.
11-25-09, 10:59 AM
#20
I had the same problem but found out it was the ignition/key switch.
After I checked everything else and couldn't find a problem, I removed the plastic covers around the steering wheel and little springs fell out.
What I discovered is that the opposite end from the key is a plastic end piece that houses the wiring and contacts which function when the key is turned.
On my 1980 RX7, the plastic end piece broke and separated/dislodged the built in springs and contacts, so the car wouldn't start and nothing worked when you turned the key.
Luckly, my local dealer was able to get a brand new replacement for about $100 which solved the problem.
After I checked everything else and couldn't find a problem, I removed the plastic covers around the steering wheel and little springs fell out.
What I discovered is that the opposite end from the key is a plastic end piece that houses the wiring and contacts which function when the key is turned.
On my 1980 RX7, the plastic end piece broke and separated/dislodged the built in springs and contacts, so the car wouldn't start and nothing worked when you turned the key.
Luckly, my local dealer was able to get a brand new replacement for about $100 which solved the problem.
11-25-09, 04:21 PM
#21
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: St. Thomas, Ontario.
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the same problem but found out it was the ignition/key switch.
After I checked everything else and couldn't find a problem, I removed the plastic covers around the steering wheel and little springs fell out.
What I discovered is that the opposite end from the key is a plastic end piece that houses the wiring and contacts which function when the key is turned.
On my 1980 RX7, the plastic end piece broke and separated/dislodged the built in springs and contacts, so the car wouldn't start and nothing worked when you turned the key.
Luckly, my local dealer was able to get a brand new replacement for about $100 which solved the problem.
After I checked everything else and couldn't find a problem, I removed the plastic covers around the steering wheel and little springs fell out.
What I discovered is that the opposite end from the key is a plastic end piece that houses the wiring and contacts which function when the key is turned.
On my 1980 RX7, the plastic end piece broke and separated/dislodged the built in springs and contacts, so the car wouldn't start and nothing worked when you turned the key.
Luckly, my local dealer was able to get a brand new replacement for about $100 which solved the problem.
2.) if so I want to know what dealer you got that from! Mazda up here want $250 for one.
3.) Follow what Rx7 Doc said, I had the same issue and by following his advice I've narrowed it down to an ignition switch.
11-25-09, 05:00 PM
#22
If you are hellbent on getting a new ignition switch then you can get one from Mazdatrix-
http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=66-1510-FA54
Or you can go through this dealer-
http://www.mazda-parts.com/partscat.html
Ignition switch, rx7 84-85 $148.71 $107.05
I believe what you dealer is quoting you on tie is the ignition lock cylinder. You have to inform them that you only want the electrical portion of the ignition switch.
http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=66-1510-FA54
Or you can go through this dealer-
http://www.mazda-parts.com/partscat.html
Ignition switch, rx7 84-85 $148.71 $107.05
I believe what you dealer is quoting you on tie is the ignition lock cylinder. You have to inform them that you only want the electrical portion of the ignition switch.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
