Turbo II engine bay pics FB
FB+FC=F-ME
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 5
From: Rohnert Park CA
S5 with a fair amount of mods,but still stock ECU and smog legal.....
Not the cleanest engine bay,but I could care less.The TII swap isnt that hard,theres plenty of room for everything to go nearly where it goes in an FC bay.The S5 requires a bit more fabrication if you want to keep the stock OMP and ECU.I went with a custom SE front cover to accept the bigger S5 OMP but still mount up 1st gen style.
Ill pretty things up in a year or 2 when the 20B goes in........
Not the cleanest engine bay,but I could care less.The TII swap isnt that hard,theres plenty of room for everything to go nearly where it goes in an FC bay.The S5 requires a bit more fabrication if you want to keep the stock OMP and ECU.I went with a custom SE front cover to accept the bigger S5 OMP but still mount up 1st gen style.
Ill pretty things up in a year or 2 when the 20B goes in........
****ty Tune= Low #'s
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC (chucktown!)
i am thinking about doing a swap in the next few years..but what acully goes into swaping a engine??like splicing the wires for old harness and getting a manual and going threw it to match up the wires???
FB+FC=F-ME
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 5
From: Rohnert Park CA
There is no splicing required......
Let me say that again,for the record......THERE IS NO SPLICING REQUIRED.:-)
The FC ECU requires 2 harness'.The large right one is plug and play from the engine to the ECU.The smaller left harness can be made from scratch relatively easily.If you use an FC fusebox,main relay,coils,and fuel relay/resistor...all the lefthand wiring will go directly from those components to the ECU.The only part of the TII swap wiring that intertwines with the FB,is where the FC fuse box replaces the FB fusible links.....simple.
Let me put it this way.....if you had a battery handy,you could take an entire TII engine with stock ECU and the aforementioned wiring mods,and run it on an engine stand....or in any other vehicle for that matter.Theres just no need at all to cut into or otherwise alter any of the FB's wiring.
The FSM is more than adequate for the TII swap.It has everything you could ever need to know about the ECU pinning and what wires do what....it is GOD, if your planning a TII swap into anything.
Let me say that again,for the record......THERE IS NO SPLICING REQUIRED.:-)
The FC ECU requires 2 harness'.The large right one is plug and play from the engine to the ECU.The smaller left harness can be made from scratch relatively easily.If you use an FC fusebox,main relay,coils,and fuel relay/resistor...all the lefthand wiring will go directly from those components to the ECU.The only part of the TII swap wiring that intertwines with the FB,is where the FC fuse box replaces the FB fusible links.....simple.
Let me put it this way.....if you had a battery handy,you could take an entire TII engine with stock ECU and the aforementioned wiring mods,and run it on an engine stand....or in any other vehicle for that matter.Theres just no need at all to cut into or otherwise alter any of the FB's wiring.
The FSM is more than adequate for the TII swap.It has everything you could ever need to know about the ECU pinning and what wires do what....it is GOD, if your planning a TII swap into anything.
Turbo Wannabe
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville, AL
Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
There is no splicing required......
Let me say that again,for the record......THERE IS NO SPLICING REQUIRED.:-)
The FC ECU requires 2 harness'.The large right one is plug and play from the engine to the ECU.The smaller left harness can be made from scratch relatively easily.If you use an FC fusebox,main relay,coils,and fuel relay/resistor...all the lefthand wiring will go directly from those components to the ECU.The only part of the TII swap wiring that intertwines with the FB,is where the FC fuse box replaces the FB fusible links.....simple.
Let me put it this way.....if you had a battery handy,you could take an entire TII engine with stock ECU and the aforementioned wiring mods,and run it on an engine stand....or in any other vehicle for that matter.Theres just no need at all to cut into or otherwise alter any of the FB's wiring.
The FSM is more than adequate for the TII swap.It has everything you could ever need to know about the ECU pinning and what wires do what....it is GOD, if your planning a TII swap into anything.
Let me say that again,for the record......THERE IS NO SPLICING REQUIRED.:-)
The FC ECU requires 2 harness'.The large right one is plug and play from the engine to the ECU.The smaller left harness can be made from scratch relatively easily.If you use an FC fusebox,main relay,coils,and fuel relay/resistor...all the lefthand wiring will go directly from those components to the ECU.The only part of the TII swap wiring that intertwines with the FB,is where the FC fuse box replaces the FB fusible links.....simple.
Let me put it this way.....if you had a battery handy,you could take an entire TII engine with stock ECU and the aforementioned wiring mods,and run it on an engine stand....or in any other vehicle for that matter.Theres just no need at all to cut into or otherwise alter any of the FB's wiring.
The FSM is more than adequate for the TII swap.It has everything you could ever need to know about the ECU pinning and what wires do what....it is GOD, if your planning a TII swap into anything.
steve, have you forgotten the clutch switch, switched 12v, etc? but yeah, most of it is the TII harness or your own stuff
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Full Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 123
Likes: 1
From: Qld, Australia
Looks a bit weird, but I think you'll find normally the coolant/water enters and exits on the same side of the radiator. My radiator flows in one side and out the other. This way the coolant catch tank/reservoir is directly connected. The pipe running along behind the radiator is a bit annoying, but it holds more coolant and will provide a bit more cooling so it's probably not a bad thing.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
From: Maryland USA
Great thread. Thanks for posting it.
As a matter of fact I am just now getting the engine out of my SE and a friend has offered me his TII motor with 70K on it out of a 10th ann car. I really want to put it in.
Exactly what other relays and resistors will I need in order to complete a swap? He is offering me whatever I need so I want a complete shopping list before I start turning wrenches. I want to avoid having to go back over stuff.
As a matter of fact I am just now getting the engine out of my SE and a friend has offered me his TII motor with 70K on it out of a 10th ann car. I really want to put it in.
Exactly what other relays and resistors will I need in order to complete a swap? He is offering me whatever I need so I want a complete shopping list before I start turning wrenches. I want to avoid having to go back over stuff.
FB+FC=F-ME
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 5
From: Rohnert Park CA
KingBob,
Clutch switch?Who needs that?Thats just for the starter interock system and cruise control.There are many wires on the left side harness that are completely uneeded to make the ECU run the engine and pass smog.Only about 15 are really neccesary,things like ECU power,fuel pump,CAS,coils and circuit opening relay.The switched power comes from the FC main relay which only needs one wire ran to it from the car, to power up the ECU and 2 main + leads for the right harness.
Goat,
Youll need everything that plugs into the ECU harness on the right side of the car(and the harness itself).
The ECU and all the little bits mounted near it,barometric and knock control...(S4 only,S5 has all these things inside the ECU)
Cut the remaining ECU harness about 6 inches from the ECU gang plug and keep it.
Then youll need the leading and trailing coils,fuseblock,fuel pump relay/resistor,main relay,curcuit opening relay and all the plugs for these items.
Once you have everything laid out and lengths measured,youll make up the left harness from scratch,and solder all the needed plugs for those items, to your leads.Remaining leads from the left ECU plug can be removed or cut short.They go to items such as cruise control,PS and AC leads,clutch switch,milage sensors,foglight relay,fan relay,ect.....
Clutch switch?Who needs that?Thats just for the starter interock system and cruise control.There are many wires on the left side harness that are completely uneeded to make the ECU run the engine and pass smog.Only about 15 are really neccesary,things like ECU power,fuel pump,CAS,coils and circuit opening relay.The switched power comes from the FC main relay which only needs one wire ran to it from the car, to power up the ECU and 2 main + leads for the right harness.
Goat,
Youll need everything that plugs into the ECU harness on the right side of the car(and the harness itself).
The ECU and all the little bits mounted near it,barometric and knock control...(S4 only,S5 has all these things inside the ECU)
Cut the remaining ECU harness about 6 inches from the ECU gang plug and keep it.
Then youll need the leading and trailing coils,fuseblock,fuel pump relay/resistor,main relay,curcuit opening relay and all the plugs for these items.
Once you have everything laid out and lengths measured,youll make up the left harness from scratch,and solder all the needed plugs for those items, to your leads.Remaining leads from the left ECU plug can be removed or cut short.They go to items such as cruise control,PS and AC leads,clutch switch,milage sensors,foglight relay,fan relay,ect.....
Last edited by steve84GS TII; Aug 9, 2005 at 11:24 PM.
FB+FC=F-ME
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 5
From: Rohnert Park CA
Roughly 300 crank HP.
14psi out of a TO4B into a Searco IC and Mazdatrix built streetport S5 13B,3" stainless mandrel exhaust,800cc secondaries,light flywheel and TII trans.Its about the limit of what you can do safely with the stock ECU and emissions control intact.
Outright,not the most powerful setup,but very reliable,easy to smog and it runs factory smooth.The power is well matched to my suspension,brakes and chassis.In all,a great road car that can go long distances but still spanks 90% of cars on the road.About 30K miles on it so far,daily driven....
14psi out of a TO4B into a Searco IC and Mazdatrix built streetport S5 13B,3" stainless mandrel exhaust,800cc secondaries,light flywheel and TII trans.Its about the limit of what you can do safely with the stock ECU and emissions control intact.
Outright,not the most powerful setup,but very reliable,easy to smog and it runs factory smooth.The power is well matched to my suspension,brakes and chassis.In all,a great road car that can go long distances but still spanks 90% of cars on the road.About 30K miles on it so far,daily driven....
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 0
From: wishing i was back in FL
Originally Posted by Directfreak
I destroyed one. And a Viper too.
That was with the blow thru too.
That was with the blow thru too.
maaaaaan, why didnt you have your video camera then?
we wanna see that **** 
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: North Texas
^
My feelings exactly! I have been a tite wad the past couple of months...I want to buy most of everything that I need all at once
Im currently looking for a weekend job(could go back to my old job) for money that will all go straight to the car.
My feelings exactly! I have been a tite wad the past couple of months...I want to buy most of everything that I need all at once
Im currently looking for a weekend job(could go back to my old job) for money that will all go straight to the car.
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 0
From: wishing i was back in FL
Originally Posted by DaGOATCorollaGTS
Me on the other hand I work as a diesel mechanic and have the money right now. Only thing thats keeping me from starting is an accurate and comprehensive list of everything needed.
omg... there are almost too many write-ups of what you need!