riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

do u ever do anything with the trailing coil from the 2gen

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Probably wouldn't be worth doing anything for the trailing as the trailing doesn't do much in terms of power. I imagine with this mod, the trailing does even less as the leading must be burning the fuel better to get the pick up in power. That means less left over for the trailing to take care of. However, we could do the same sort of thing with the trailing. The only other thing as that we would have to add a select signal that atells which trailing coil to fire based on TDC. Maybe add a Hall effect sensor or similar to the front pulley. If you guys want to try something like this, I'd be more than happy to help out with the design.

riceburner: I don't think the circuit itself changes the timing as the delay through it is very small. I think it comes from the delay between when the 2nd gen ignitor gets its signal and when it actually fires. The delay does not matter as it is accounted for when you reset the timing.

Kent

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Dont the 2nd gens have direct fire on all 4 plugs stock? What if you designed something to take the signal from the crank angle sensor they have instead of the dizzy we have and make that fire the leading and trailing coil packs from a 2nd gen? The CAS takes the signal and sends it to the ECU which regulates the pulse width, correct? Well, since you already have the part that regulates the pulse width without the need for the ECU, couldnt you just make two and run them off the CAS signals instead of the dizzy pickups? Is that possible? Has it been done? I only slept like 3 hours last night, so if Im losing it, someone let me know...

~T.J.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Well, the CAS has a different output (basically similar to what the J-109 sees at its input). The CAS has teeth to tell timing position and another set to tell what part of the rotation the engine is at.

That link jayroc posted near the beginning of the thread explains the 2nd gen ignition pretty well.

For this to work, you need a conditioning IC (lm1815) and corresponding circuitry. You also need and ECU of some sort to take care of the advance/dwell. The 2nd gens direct fire all plugs, but the trailing isn’t the so called "wasted spark". They only fire once per revolution instead of two like this setup and DLIDFIS.

In our case, we let the J-109 handle the input from the VR sensors in the dizzy. We then modify that singal to work with the 2nd gen ignitor input.

I don't think it is really worth messing with, but the easiest way to do it is to copy this circuit to fire the trailing and then add some additional circuitry/sensors to determine engine position to create the select signal. Then we could remove the dizzy cap, put on some other cover, and be firing 2nd gen coils all around. The timing advance would still be set by the 1st gen dizzy.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

*light clicks on*

Its all coming back to me now. Its been a while since I played with these cars... I was around here 24/7 for a LONG time, then I lost the wind in my sails after my car got me a ticket, blew the engine, and got stolen all in the same weekend. Its strange how I can read newbie posts that I used to know the answer to, yet cant remember

~T.J.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I tried to pick up the remaining parts today for the prototype, but the local electronics placed was closed. Must be taking a long weekend or something. I'll try again tomorrow. Thed prototype is etched, drilled, and has about half the components installed.

This week has been busy, so the progress is somewhat slow on the circuits. I have my final defense for my PhD this Thursday, so I have putting together a presentation and I still have to do a bunch of studying. After that, I'll have plenty of time to start cranking out these circuits.

I have been thinking about the whole assembled unit vs. kit vs. plain board situation. I have came to the conclusion that doing just a blank board isn't worth it. I will still do those for the couple guys that I discussed doing a blank board with. The issue is that the majority of the labor involved is in the etching and drilling of the boards. The actual assembly is quick. That is the main reason that I went with a PCB. Because of this, it would be hard for me to really do just a board unless it was nearly as expensive as a built unit. In addition, the built units can be tested before shipping. The blank ones can't as easily, so it is harder to provide quality assurance. I want to give everyone a quality product at a good price.

I guess that I am saying that I would prefer to do pre-built units. I will do blank boards for the couple of guys that I promised. I am not sure if I'll do a kit. I hope this works for you guys. I am trying my best to suit everyone's needs, but that can be difficult. I hope that you guys understand.

If you are interested in a circuit, let me know. I will likely be ordering the parts in about two days or so. I want to make sure that I have enough parts to cover everyone that wants one.

Thanks.

Kent

Big_Ern

Thanks, Sounds simple enough. How much do you think a 2nd gen leading coil would go for in the junk yard?

Also, will you be making anymore in a month or two? I'm not sure I have the extra $$ for it now. Maybe if you could you PM me a price with shipping to V2Z 2N7 Langley BC Canada.

Thanks!

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Really the price of the coil depends. My wrecking yard wanted like $60. I instead bought the coil and a 2nd gen fuse box for $25 shipped from a guy on the forum. Just posy in the 2nd gen section that you are looking for a 2nd gen leading coil. You will probably get lots of responses. Check your local yards too. They may sell you one cheap.

As for the circuits, I will be leaving the country in about 1 month. I will be gone for atleast 1 year (probably be back next June to visit, though). I will pm you the price shipped to Canada. We wil work something out.

Kent

Zyrano

hey Kent,

those dizzy connectors that you were looking for, let me know if you want some used ones (and let me know exactly where i'd need to cut the wires) there are like 10-15fbs in the local wrecking yards, so i can definitly grab a bunch and send them your way. Let me know,

thanks,

Alvin

Frankenrex

iTrader: (1)

If you're talking about the "T" shaped female plug for the FB ignitors, those connectors are used on pretty much every Japanese car in existance, for lots of stuff. The FB uses that size/shape connector for the side marker lights, power window dorr jamb connection, fuel pump (inside, under storage bins) just off the top of my head. Pretty much anything that has only two wires. Same for other Japanese makes, so you needn't limit yourself to just FBs. :-)
I'm really surprised that the silly things aren't avaialble *somewhere* new, as replacement parts. Perhaps Molex would have them, or some electronics supplier, like Mouser? Parts Express? MCM Electronics? Digikey?
May go dig around if I have a moment...

BlastinSideways12A

gsl-se addict, just PMed you about getting one.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Zyrano: Thanks. I'll pm you later about it.

Frankenrex: Yes, those are the ones. I know they are used alot. I know Maazda and Nissan used them for sure. I check Mouser, Digikey, Waytec (didn't try calling them though). I also asked a local alternator shop. Tyco electronics has a ton of connectors online. I wen bthrough them a bit, but is a bit hard to find stuff if you don't know the manufacturer name. If you find something, let me know. I will look into some of those other suppliers that you mentioned. I would prefer to use new connectors as opposed to cutting up harnesses to get the old connector. Also, if I used new connectors, I could also keep the wirin color consistent.

Blastin: Got your pm. I will reply to it in a few hours.

Going to finish up the prototype tonight and start testing. I'll let you guys know what's up.

Kent

rustnrot

Cherenkov addict, er, ah, I mean, gsl-se addict you have a PM from me for yet another circuit!

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys.

Passed my PhD defense. Now I am Dr. Addict Now that's out of the way, I can concentrate on the 'trick'. I finished putting the prototype board tonight. The board and the auto-switching works. It may be a while before I can try it in my car, but that does not matter. I know the individual modes works as well as the switching. I am going to be putting the 7 in storage this weekend. I may be able to try the new board in a couple weeks just before I leave the country. I'll have to rely on you guys for feedback. I'll figure out how much I need of everything in the morning and then send out the order for the parts.

Kent

Kentetsu

Let me be the first to congratulate you man!

Good news about the new circuit too. Can't wait to try that out!

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, man. I'll be interested to see how the new board performs as well.

cag8or

I guess I will be the second on the congrats! Today was my first time reading the post. It was long, but well worth it and may I say a very good job! I would like to go on the list if possible. I currently have the Jacobs Power Pak ignition module along with their ultra coils installed. Do you think this will create any problems with your modified setup? The problem I have with the Jacobs is that the spark is so hot it destroys the cap and rotor very quickly.

toxic_d

Hey cag are you happy overall with the Jacobs setup??? I was considering this myself some time ago...

Toxic_d

cag8or

Mike:

Is that you? Anyway, yes very happy with this setup. I purchased from RX7.com and came highly reccomenced by Ari Yallon I would think that he knows his stuff with all of the drag racing wins and records. I had installed a Jacob's on my '86 300ZX turbo back in '91 and it is still running strong today, so the quality is very good. I installed this unit about two years ago and have had zero problems so far other than the aforementioned rotor cap issue. If this new method essentially elimnates the need for the cap and rotor it would be very nice. I would forward this post to the Mazspeed site, but it has been down for a while now. I am not sure what the problem is there.

toxic_d

Its Kyle the one who helped with the a-pillar... as for the mazspeed site it seems to have been down for about a day or so.

Toxic_d

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

cag8or: Thanks for the congrats. I'll be happy to put you down for a board.

Toxic_d: I havn't forgotten about you. I am going to make you a board from the new batch. The current batch is okay, but I want something a bit better for you guys. I am going to increase the pad size on the inputs/outputs and make the board a bit shorter to fit the box that I have in mind. I also will increase the spacing between the traces/pads and the surrounding copper ground plane. The problem is that since there is no solder mask, the solder sticks to everything. It is nearly impossible to do a good soldering job this way, even with a fine tip iron and fine solder.

I pretty much have the parts list put together for the order. I will submit it tomorrow. I will do a couple extras just incase there are a couple other guys that may want one.

Kent

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Okay, guys. I am submitting the order for the parts. I hope that everyone that said they want one will actually get one. The parts get to be pretty expensive when getting as many as we will need. Once I get the parts, I'll start up the one-man assembly line. Luckily, I have a lot more free time now, so I should be able to get them all built and sent out before I leave. Still no luck on those connectors. I am having a couple guys track down enough used connectors to build all these boards. Thanks for the patience through this. I think it will be worth the wait, though.

Kent

toxic_d

Thanks for the update.

BlastinSideways12A

I can't wait for high RPM power! (6,000 up is weak mostly because of air/fuel ratios but ignition should help too)

rustnrot

How many total are going to be built?