NewmanFirstgen

ok heres my problem when hooked up to T1 spark wire, changing positions of the vacuum valve doesn't change trailing timing... when i hook it to the L1 wire it does change..

Can my distributor be in wrong?? what is going on the car seems to run fine a little hesitation but other than that ok.

I went to time my car today and found it was about 7-10 degrees retarded so i went through the process and am wondering whats going on I have a copy of the factory service manual and followed its diagrams but something seems screwy
the wires are correct the rotor button is correct "keyed"
Is it possible to have the two connectors going to the

I also just replaced factory type wires with a set of accel magnecor type 8.8 mm wires
I have read that the timing gun can pick up on the wrong signal but the gun seems to be working fine.

it just seems that leading and trailing sparks are switched

REVHED

It's possible the high tension leads on the coils are the wrong way around or the actual wiring from the coil to the magnetic pickup inside the distributor.

NewmanFirstgen

That was it... the two wires on the coils were switched.. Thanks
time to test...

NewmanFirstgen

ok now that i have the timing set back to factory specs... what can i do to get more power from advance?? I have a street port with holley and RB intake full RB SP exhaust.. I have heard that i could get 20 horses from timing alone..

REVHED

I think 20hp is a bit unrealistic.

I'd recommend setting the total advance to about 24 or 25* leading with about a 8-10* trailing split. This can be done by marking the pulley which is quite easy as the circumference is 360mm so 1mm corresponds to 1*. Then you just set the timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and the engine reved up to 4000rpm so the mechanical advance is all the way in.