I have searched for this and found nothing. Is it possible to bolt a TII trans to a 12A motor and if so what exactly has to be done?


Thanks,
Chris

 

Yes, you can use the TII bellhousings but you will need to get an aftermarket flyewheel then put a 12a counter weight on it. Or you can find a bellhousing from a pre rx7 car and it will bolt the TII tranny right up to the 12a and you can use your own flywheel

 

? Don't understand???????
I have a 12a with a t2 trans as stock equipment, was also told in this club that any box will bolt up to either 12a or 13b for the 7's. ( any mazda RX box that is) I have poasted questions on this topic only last week and got heaps of info, the t2 has a **** 5th gear so the 5th from a s1 or s5 should be used- a crap bush instead of bearing I'm on the computer for a sec because the job is giving me the *****..... trust me - pay for it to be done or just get a s5 box in and be done with it. Shave the fly wheel to 12 or so lbs get a 2tonne preasure plate and stab away, till the diff gives in or the uni goes- either way it's sure better than re- building a t2 for the first time.

 

Doesn't the 12at have the t2 trans as well? All i know is i got a t2 trans with the car now i'm pulling it down, and have the ***** with it all!
Just wanna go outside and find a honda to smash up argh!

 

I did it before going with a full TII drivetrain....its not hard.

Heres what youll need.......

1.Correct AT counterweight for your 12A
2.Aftermarket TII flywheel (any brand or composition)
3.TII clutch,any type
4.TII trans,starter and slave cylinder
5.FB crossmember and rubber mount
6.Custom driveline(have a shop make it)

The FB crossmember must be spaced down an inch to provide clearance,no biggie.The FB rubber mount will work fine,just a little grinding for clearance beforehand.
The shifter will be an inch too far back.You can leave it there and notch the tunnel,or do it right and install a 1st gen tower to the TII trans,and cut the TII shifter shaft down an inch and redrill the rollpin hole.Its not hard and your shifter will be perfectly centered.......

 

Hey Steve84GSTII. If I were to buy a 12ATurbo motor, would I need to get a TII transmission or would the stock 12A tranny suffice?

 

That all depends on how much power and torque you plan on running. If you're going for the gusto, get a TII. If you're going to drive it fairly easy, stick with the stocker till the 12A goes. It's only a matter of time. But that might be enough time to prepare your TII tranny the right way.

 

Do they make stronger 12ATurbo trannys that can take the extra power?

 

From what ive heard,the 12AT used the same box as the SE,which aint much stronger than the FB or N/A FC boxes.Plus,the rarity of the 12AT makes the 1st gen turbo tranny tough to find.

Driving behavior plays a BIG,if not critical role in transmission and rearend life.Even a weak 12A can destroy a strong trans if you beat on it.Full throttle clutch drops induce huge torque loads on the drivetrain.The lower your gearing,the worse the torque loads get.

A stock 12A trans can hold up to a turbo engine.However................most are getting quite old and the nature of turbo engines plus the addictive,easy to obtain HP and torque they produce will likely keep you from driving like granny.Chances are very good that your gonna be driving it like it wants to be driven,and that will spell a short life for an N/A trans.

Not hard launching will help,but turbo engines can deliver a lot of torque on their own,without driver induced abuse.The factory stock TII ribcase Type R box is renowned for its strength.They are as strong as the N/A boxes are weak.Plus,since all J-spec 2nd gens came with the TII engine,the TII gearbox is an easy find.

 

I'm just trying to avoid having to modify the tranny to get it to fit properly.

 

Modifying the trans is not hard at all.Basic hand tools and a drill.
Theres nothing special needed and you dont have to pop the box open,just the tailcone.Its less work than pulling a blown N/A box every 6 months.......

 

True. But I also don't want to fork over the money for the custom driveline. I know I'm cheap LOL

 

If you get the housing from a rotary car preious to the rx7, the you can skip the step of having to get a TII flywheel and the correct 12a counter weight. You also don't need to get the TII slave, or starter

 

I totally understand that.
I did my entire car cheap by doing most of the work myself,but I also didnt comprimise strength or reliability where it matters.Drivetrain integrity should be at the top of the list with safety and cooling.A custom,bigger,greasable,serviceable driveline cost me about 200 bucks and has logged 5 years and almost 40K miles with zero problems.
Unfortunatly,some things require a pro to do right and that costs you money.A better driveline should be installed for reliabilty,strength and serviceability when you run any turbo engine,regardless of the trans you select.The stock 1st gen Ujoints are a joke and a turbo engine can easily deliver 100% more torque than a stock N/A engine.If youve never driven a turbo rotary,its a completely different animal.It has pull and grunt a N/A rotary never had.The drivetrain as a whole should be stronger or youll inevitably be replacing parts and/or be stranded on the side of the road or worse.
Some say Ive been lucky with the stock SE rearend,but Im pretty convinced its adequate for my current power levels.Im nice to it and feed it the good stuff,but a Ford 8.8" will have to replace it when I drop in the 20B....

If you go with a pre-rx7 ribcase,be sure its in good shape.They were strong,but also are much older and there were many,many variations on the internals.Getting repair parts for them can be extremely tough because of all the different changes over the years.

 

How much did it cost for the set up you have and how many pounds of boost are you running?

 

How would changing bellhousings accomplish anything?

 

The reason i need to know is because i have been known to be rough on transmissions. (which is why i went to the FR car in the first place). I put four in my DA6 integra and 1 in my AWD talon. I need something that is stronger. I didn't break this one but it is starting to whine and it is getting loud. I can get an S5 N/A trans for free or a turbo TII for around 300. Which would be the better way to go?

 

bump

 

The Turbo box is the way to go.

 

I did 99% of the work myself,but had Mazdatrix build my S5 block.TO4B hybrid turbo was built by Turbonetics.

Initially I did a S4 swap for cheap.About $1500 for the full running junkyard S4 TII swap.New seals,gaskets,hoses,ect.
I only paid out labor for the custom driveline,exhaust system and mods to the gastank to accept an intank pump.All the rest of the work I did to save money,for the experience,and because Im a mechanic by trade so I dont pay other people to do what I can do.
After the junkyard engine died from water seal failure I upped the engine to a full S5 getdown.Streetport,nearly all new parts,oil and water jacket mods,$4500 for a bomb proof engine.Ive run 14psi all day, every day for the last 30K miles,no issues.Smog legal too.

 

Nice. Anybody know how reliable Rotary Shack is? I wanna get the 12ATurbo from there and get the TII tranny from there.

 

What has to be done to put an S5 N/a trans to a 12a? Is it the same stuff that yo have to do with a TII or is it a little diffrent?

 

bump Anyone have any input on this? C'mon guys my trans will be gone soon and i need to know.

 

Bolts right on.
All non turbo trannies had the same clutch spline count.
Not 100% sure about the S5 starter engaging the 12A flywheel though.If it doesnt,then youll need to run an AT 12A counterweight and S5 N/A light flywheel.S5 flywheel will warrant a 225MM clutch swap if your 12A currently has a 215MM(79-82)

You still have to fix the shifter location and most FC non turbo trannies tend to be shot due to the weight and torque of the 2nd gens.

 

Just wanted to be able to find this thread easily again...