Alex84GSL

I've lurked-ish on here long enough! Here's my current plan:
Bought my 84 GSL last summer with 140,000 and bone stock. BECAUSE of owning this car I am now a "car guy" and the amount I've learned already blows me away. But now I am faced with an even better challenge: if I want to keep this car as my DD, it needs some work.
Although she ran fine all through the winter when I put 40,000 km on her, got me across Canada and back and on a road trip to New Hampshire during reading week, lately she's been having some fuel issues. Hot starts have been difficult and acceleration is noticeably slower (especially when loaded with all my stuff to cross the country!) Also, since my engine temp gauge only works sometimes, I am worried that she's been overheating. I have a slight coolant leak somewhere. The gas tank leaks. She's still running on the original suspension. Just recently I starting blowing blue smoke out the exhaust.
What would any sane person do? Buy a new, reliable car with a normal engine!
What will I do? Let's get this baby back on the road.




The grey lady on jackstands in the driveway.


Engine bay. This engine is coming out! Already removed the old rad, battery and any supports for them. Brush off the rust, new coat of rust paint, new rad from Rotary Performance and new hoses etc and dizzy cap + rotor from Mazdatrix.


Here's my new-ish '83 engine and tranny, bought in Calgary for $270. It's got 130,000 on it, apparently lady-driven. I don't think I have the time/cash/skill to do a full rebuild, though I'd like to. Next year! For now, time to remove the rat's nest, new clutch, slap on the tranny and slip this one in.


Freshly rebuilt Nikki from the extra engine. I figured if I can rebuild a Nikki first then I trust myself to get this car going.


Since my old air cleaner is covered in rust anyway let's wire brush it and paint it bright red! This of course will add at least +5 horsepower. The air cleaner from the new engine is in much better shape anyway, I'll leave that one original.


Here's the villain of the story. This tank has been leaking (just drips when it's full) since I got the car. Time to fix that. However, it was covered in a thick layer of rust. The plate for the fuel lines, and the fuel sender are rusted on permanently. I don't know if this guy is reusable, but I do know a guy near here who might sell me his '82 fuel tank.

Game plan:
-Buy a 700lb engine lift from Princess Auto, get out the old engine
-Fix up the new-ish engine to go in:
-remove damn flapper valve from intake, block off ACV, rebuilt semi-stripped Nikki
-remove emissions
-install transmission with new clutch - new tranny feels smoother than the one in the car right now
-slap on the RB header I bought from a guy in Calgary
-Install new rad and hoses.
-Upgrade battery ground and fuel pump wiring
-Install fuel tank.

This car has to be ready to roll by about Aug. 25! And I work 9 hours a day already. So, optional:
-rebuild all brake calipers (this one is optional but I REALLY think I'd better)
-fix up all rust spots on the car
-fix up front and rear bumpers, both of which sit just a little out of line

I'll update when I get the chance! If I do something completely stupid, tell me. I've been learning from this forum for a year now.
Cheers guys... wish me luck

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Did u buy the new clutch already??

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

82 gas tank will not bolt into the 84. The 81-83 car bodies and tanks are a different shape than the 84-85 cars and tanks. Here's a couple of threads where we've discussed it previously.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/fuel-tank-swap-early-late-961990/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/gas-tank-628743/

Alex84GSL

Oh thanks, looks like I'll have to keep trying to restore my current tank. I can probably drill out the screws for the fuel lines plate and the fuel level sender, get it steamed and then rip the rust off. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

84stock - no, didn't buy it yet. Any ideas?

84stock

iTrader: (5)

I have 2 spares. And an open lid and k&n filter too. The is a 84 at picknpull but she's a rusty bitch

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Replace the coolant hose running from the lower driver side if the engine to the heater core. Common failure since any spilt or leaking oil from the filler neck eats away at it.

Alex84GSL

I'm not likely to find another gas tank. Looks like I'm using mine, and I think it can be saved! I'm getting the rust off and then will get it cleaned out and re-coated at a rad shop.



I've been sanding and repainting the parts I pull as best I can. It's not going to look as pretty as any of the old skoolers on this forum who can do a damn beautiful job, but it will keep the rust away. My battery tray already had a couple holes in it. Bright red? Why not.



And repainting my side-view mirrors, which were down to bare crusty plastic.



Found a guy in Leduc who has owned three FBs, and what a treasure trove of parts! He's selling me
a Carter fuel pump,
a full RB exhaust (awesome - because then I can bolt it on myself instead of paying mechanics),
rebuilt front calipers,
his second gen ignition upgrade,
second gen fuse box,
SS brake lines,
a blocked-off intake mani,
a replacement for my cracked left tail light and EVEN a rear wiper motor if it's working.
By the way anyone want to tell me what all that stuff might be worth used? So I know what I'm talking about when we haggle.

One question: I bought a true dual RB header (the "road race" header) with a y-pipe collector from 84stock, thanks dude. Will that be too long to fit in the place where the normal 2-to-1 header fits for the full RB system?

pinoyremix

I fit a gslse tank under my 83 S without any issues

Alex84GSL

Got the engine + tranny out on Sunday, it took me 8 FRICKING HOURS with two buddies. So... obviously I'm not a speed demon like some of the old pros on here. Of course, the engine hasn't been out of the car in 27 years, including most of the bolts, and I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination.

Right now I have a rolling shell on the driveway that needs the crappy exhaust taken out and the brakes done, and two skuzzy, rusty old 12a engines and transmissions in the garage. One has 190,000 km and the other has 130,000. I've removed the intake, carb, air pump and exhaust mani on both and I'm still trying to get the intake gaskets off.

Kinda fun to reach through the intake port and feel the rotor.

I'm discouraged! This is more work and more parts needed than I expected, and I'm starting to feel like I know dick-all about the work I'm trying to do. But I'm no quitter!

Bottom line right now is I don't want to have to do an entire rebuild on my 130k engine, I just don't have the cash. I just need to get the clutch mounted on this engine, the new blocked-off intake and rebuilt carb on there, attach the tranny and slide 'er in. Then install the RB exhaust system and connect everything without fuking up.

My fuel tank is no good, the rad shop says. I've got a couple options, a guy here in town I found on kijiji parting out an 85 OR a chap in BC who has a GSLSE tank. Then slap on the tank, reconnect everything, install the new Carter pump and my FPR and gauge.

Piece of cake right?

Alex84GSL

Mirror repainted, ONLY thing on the car so far that looks good!


pulled my 12a + tranny with 192,000 km on it


Remove intake + carb


...and the intake gasket came off... sorta. Gonna go out on a limb here and say that's not reusable.


Engine harness labelled and removed from 84 engine

clykins

iTrader: (1)

Looking great! Keep it up. I couldn't spell "car" when I started. It will always cost more then planned. Good luck! Keep up with the posts. We eat this stuff up!

G-man

iTrader: (2)

Like clykins said...keep it up! My GS-to-SE swap has taken me 1.5 years so far due to money and time restraints. However it's about 2 weeks away from firing (fingers crossed) and it's really satisfying to know that I've done the swap entirely by myself.

Alex84GSL

Thanks guys
I know that I love looking at pics too, even if the car looks as ghetto as mine! Haha which is very few of them... hey, if she runs that's a good start. Mods, sound systems, paint jobs, that can all wait until the mechanicals are good. I'd rather have an ugly sleeper than an underpowered shiny ricemobile!

So DAMMIT the guy in Edmonton who had an 85 GSL sold it to the junkyard this weekend. I ran my *** down there today to get the tank, but the manager I talked to told me that until they've "processed" the cars they don't go out on the lot and no one can have parts til then. It gets worse: part of the "processing" for the lot includes punching THREE 1" HOLES IN THE FUEL TANK.


Please. I'm begging on bended knee. Does ANYONE in Alberta or near Alberta have an 84-85 fuel tank??

Alex84GSL

FUEL TANK FIXED. A local rad shop did it for $150! It's home today but I have to figure out the fuel level sender etc. myself.

I've spent a week on and off trying to get the Carter fuel pump in. No luck there yet, I removed the cut & check valve because I can't fit the bracket in with it there. I figure there's still the rollover check valve so I'm safe, right?

Anyway! Pics.


Wired in a 2nd gen fuse box.


Installed el cheapo FPR and gauge. Had a hell of a time finding brass fittings, no one has good variety so I had to mix and match and my gauge ended up sticking straight out to the side, while the hose barbs are both elbows. It'll work, anyway!


and WOOHOO! Got the engine and tranny back in tonight. This is an 83 engine with about 130,000 on it, in much better shape than my current 84 engine with 192,000 and blowing blue smoke.

ztfdrake61

Looks like you're most of the way there, keep it up!

clykins

iTrader: (1)

Its looking great! I am currently trying to figure out the fuel tank on my 85' GSL. Feels good to get the engine back in, doesn't it? Keep it up. I wait patiently to see what you've done.

Alex84GSL

Things are rolling! Gas tank is now entirely coated with rust paint, tho I still have to fix the sender.

Today I put in the rad + supports, the battery stand and connected a whole load of hoses.
Also put on the engine harness. Wow, without the rats' nest it's a very simple harness!

-Can I clip off those old solenoids from the rats' nest on the harness now? They won't screw anything up any more?

And the mystery of the day: a sensor on the top rear of the engine block. It's on my '84 but not on the '83 engine. Since my 84 had cruise control and the 83 didn't, is that what it's related to? Do I need this?

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Do yourself a favor and redo those fittings on your Holley FPR while it's easy. The fittings you have are fine, but I GUARANTEE you that the thread tape you used will leak the first time you run fuel thru it. I did the exact same thing on my 1985 GS several years ago. No matter how hard you tighten the fittings, they will still leak. Get some of the Permatex thread sealant stuff that is safe for gasoline. It is great, and will keep you from getting leaks on first startup.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

This stuff. It's awesome.



http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ad_Sealant.htm

Sgt Fox

iTrader: (3)

The tape does work. I used fuel safe teflon tape and have had no issues.

Alex84GSL

Well... if I'm going to change it now is the time. I picked up thread sealant today, exact package you show there, though it doesn't say anywhere on the package that it's good for gasoline... I'll just hope? I don't know if the tape I used was for gasoline either!

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

The permatex website says that it is safe for gasoline, although it doesn't say it on the tube when you buy it. I have a couple of tubes out in my toolbox and they are the same way. I've used it before though, and it works great. I personally like it better than the teflon tape.

XLNDRVR

iTrader: (3)

Same here, several years ago. I did use a roughly 3/8" wooden shim between the tank and the body to level the tank out, though.

Alex84GSL

I install the fuel lines and fuel level sender into the tank today and covered the bottom with undercoating. Tomorrow I'll do the top. The old sender had corroded away an entire spade terminal, both sides, but I have an extra from my rear wiper motor that I'll connect to the existing wires with butt connectors (I feel like an electrical expert already lol.)

Found me a 3L220 belt and installed that properly, good ol' bicycle chain technique.

Since I left off all the emissions stuff, I couldn't just follow the excellent tutorial (cheers RX7Carl et al) step by step. After reading up all over the site, I've decided to route my vacuum tubing like this:

1. Run a vacuum advance line from the #2 carb spacer vacuum source (the original application) to the dizzy advances
2. Leave the oil tube holes open and install the 90degree fitting in the oil cap, like Wackyricer. He seems to know what he's doing and it sounds simplest.
3. Run a line from the main body carb vent (just under the fuel lines) to the vacuum source on the firewall running to the charcoal canister.
That's it. Is this a good idea? I have no A/C, no cruise anyway.

ztfdrake61

I personally connected the two vents on the oil neck/center iron to the intake. I have read that the center iron bung needs a vacuum to properly vent, but i'm no expert. Your oil cap mod should keep the lung butter out of the oil neck.