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Tight-for-time Alberta newb restoration!
I've lurked-ish on here long enough! Here's my current plan:
Bought my 84 GSL last summer with 140,000 and bone stock. BECAUSE of owning this car I am now a "car guy" and the amount I've learned already blows me away. But now I am faced with an even better challenge: if I want to keep this car as my DD, it needs some work. Although she ran fine all through the winter when I put 40,000 km on her, got me across Canada and back and on a road trip to New Hampshire during reading week, lately she's been having some fuel issues. Hot starts have been difficult and acceleration is noticeably slower (especially when loaded with all my stuff to cross the country!) Also, since my engine temp gauge only works sometimes, I am worried that she's been overheating. I have a slight coolant leak somewhere. The gas tank leaks. She's still running on the original suspension. Just recently I starting blowing blue smoke out the exhaust. What would any sane person do? Buy a new, reliable car with a normal engine! What will I do? Let's get this baby back on the road. :icon_tup: :goodrebuild: https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=38954 The grey lady on jackstands in the driveway. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=38955 Engine bay. This engine is coming out! Already removed the old rad, battery and any supports for them. Brush off the rust, new coat of rust paint, new rad from Rotary Performance and new hoses etc and dizzy cap + rotor from Mazdatrix. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=38956 Here's my new-ish '83 engine and tranny, bought in Calgary for $270. It's got 130,000 on it, apparently lady-driven. I don't think I have the time/cash/skill to do a full rebuild, though I'd like to. Next year! For now, time to remove the rat's nest, new clutch, slap on the tranny and slip this one in. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=38957 Freshly rebuilt Nikki from the extra engine. I figured if I can rebuild a Nikki first then I trust myself to get this car going. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=38958 Since my old air cleaner is covered in rust anyway let's wire brush it and paint it bright red! This of course will add at least +5 horsepower. :nod: The air cleaner from the new engine is in much better shape anyway, I'll leave that one original. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=38959 Here's the villain of the story. This tank has been leaking (just drips when it's full) since I got the car. Time to fix that. However, it was covered in a thick layer of rust. The plate for the fuel lines, and the fuel sender are rusted on permanently. I don't know if this guy is reusable, but I do know a guy near here who might sell me his '82 fuel tank. Game plan: -Buy a 700lb engine lift from Princess Auto, get out the old engine -Fix up the new-ish engine to go in: -remove damn flapper valve from intake, block off ACV, rebuilt semi-stripped Nikki -remove emissions -install transmission with new clutch - new tranny feels smoother than the one in the car right now -slap on the RB header I bought from a guy in Calgary -Install new rad and hoses. -Upgrade battery ground and fuel pump wiring -Install fuel tank. This car has to be ready to roll by about Aug. 25! And I work 9 hours a day already. So, optional: -rebuild all brake calipers (this one is optional but I REALLY think I'd better) -fix up all rust spots on the car -fix up front and rear bumpers, both of which sit just a little out of line I'll update when I get the chance! If I do something completely stupid, tell me. I've been learning from this forum for a year now. Cheers guys... wish me luck :biggrin: |
Did u buy the new clutch already??
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82 gas tank will not bolt into the 84. The 81-83 car bodies and tanks are a different shape than the 84-85 cars and tanks. Here's a couple of threads where we've discussed it previously.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/fuel-tank-swap-early-late-961990/ https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/gas-tank-628743/ |
Oh thanks, looks like I'll have to keep trying to restore my current tank. I can probably drill out the screws for the fuel lines plate and the fuel level sender, get it steamed and then rip the rust off. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
84stock - no, didn't buy it yet. Any ideas? :) |
I have 2 spares. And an open lid and k&n filter too. The is a 84 at picknpull but she's a rusty bitch
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Replace the coolant hose running from the lower driver side if the engine to the heater core. Common failure since any spilt or leaking oil from the filler neck eats away at it.
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Proceedings
I'm not likely to find another gas tank. Looks like I'm using mine, and I think it can be saved! I'm getting the rust off and then will get it cleaned out and re-coated at a rad shop.
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39061 I've been sanding and repainting the parts I pull as best I can. It's not going to look as pretty as any of the old skoolers on this forum who can do a damn beautiful job, but it will keep the rust away. My battery tray already had a couple holes in it. Bright red? Why not. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39060 And repainting my side-view mirrors, which were down to bare crusty plastic. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39059 Found a guy in Leduc who has owned three FBs, and what a treasure trove of parts! He's selling me a Carter fuel pump, a full RB exhaust (awesome - because then I can bolt it on myself instead of paying mechanics), rebuilt front calipers, his second gen ignition upgrade, second gen fuse box, SS brake lines, a blocked-off intake mani, a replacement for my cracked left tail light and EVEN a rear wiper motor if it's working. By the way anyone want to tell me what all that stuff might be worth used? So I know what I'm talking about when we haggle. One question: I bought a true dual RB header (the "road race" header) with a y-pipe collector from 84stock, thanks dude. Will that be too long to fit in the place where the normal 2-to-1 header fits for the full RB system? |
Originally Posted by 74RX4
(Post 10727687)
82 gas tank will not bolt into the 84. The 81-83 car bodies and tanks are a different shape than the 84-85 cars and tanks. Here's a couple of threads where we've discussed it previously.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=961990 https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=628743 |
Bit off more than I can chew?
Got the engine + tranny out on Sunday, it took me 8 FRICKING HOURS with two buddies. So... obviously I'm not a speed demon like some of the old pros on here. Of course, the engine hasn't been out of the car in 27 years, including most of the bolts, and I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination.
Right now I have a rolling shell on the driveway that needs the crappy exhaust taken out and the brakes done, and two skuzzy, rusty old 12a engines and transmissions in the garage. One has 190,000 km and the other has 130,000. I've removed the intake, carb, air pump and exhaust mani on both and I'm still trying to get the intake gaskets off. Kinda fun to reach through the intake port and feel the rotor. :biggrin: I'm discouraged! This is more work and more parts needed than I expected, and I'm starting to feel like I know dick-all about the work I'm trying to do. But I'm no quitter! Bottom line right now is I don't want to have to do an entire rebuild on my 130k engine, I just don't have the cash. I just need to get the clutch mounted on this engine, the new blocked-off intake and rebuilt carb on there, attach the tranny and slide 'er in. Then install the RB exhaust system and connect everything without fuking up. My fuel tank is no good, the rad shop says. I've got a couple options, a guy here in town I found on kijiji parting out an 85 OR a chap in BC who has a GSLSE tank. Then slap on the tank, reconnect everything, install the new Carter pump and my FPR and gauge. Piece of cake right? |
Pics update
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39154
Mirror repainted, ONLY thing on the car so far that looks good! https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39155 pulled my 12a + tranny with 192,000 km on it https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39156 Remove intake + carb https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39157 ...and the intake gasket came off... sorta. Gonna go out on a limb here and say that's not reusable. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39158 Engine harness labelled and removed from 84 engine |
Looking great! Keep it up. I couldn't spell "car" when I started. It will always cost more then planned. Good luck! Keep up with the posts. We eat this stuff up!
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Like clykins said...keep it up! My GS-to-SE swap has taken me 1.5 years so far due to money and time restraints. However it's about 2 weeks away from firing (fingers crossed) and it's really satisfying to know that I've done the swap entirely by myself.
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Thanks guys :icon_tup:
I know that I love looking at pics too, even if the car looks as ghetto as mine! Haha which is very few of them... hey, if she runs that's a good start. Mods, sound systems, paint jobs, that can all wait until the mechanicals are good. I'd rather have an ugly sleeper than an underpowered shiny ricemobile! So DAMMIT the guy in Edmonton who had an 85 GSL sold it to the junkyard this weekend. I ran my ass down there today to get the tank, but the manager I talked to told me that until they've "processed" the cars they don't go out on the lot and no one can have parts til then. It gets worse: part of the "processing" for the lot includes punching THREE 1" HOLES IN THE FUEL TANK. :cursing: Please. I'm begging on bended knee. Does ANYONE in Alberta or near Alberta have an 84-85 fuel tank?? |
FUEL TANK FIXED. A local rad shop did it for $150! It's home today but I have to figure out the fuel level sender etc. myself.
I've spent a week on and off trying to get the Carter fuel pump in. No luck there yet, I removed the cut & check valve because I can't fit the bracket in with it there. I figure there's still the rollover check valve so I'm safe, right? Anyway! Pics. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39616 Wired in a 2nd gen fuse box. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39618 Installed el cheapo FPR and gauge. Had a hell of a time finding brass fittings, no one has good variety so I had to mix and match and my gauge ended up sticking straight out to the side, while the hose barbs are both elbows. It'll work, anyway! https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39617 and WOOHOO! Got the engine and tranny back in tonight. This is an 83 engine with about 130,000 on it, in much better shape than my current 84 engine with 192,000 and blowing blue smoke. |
Looks like you're most of the way there, keep it up!
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Its looking great! I am currently trying to figure out the fuel tank on my 85' GSL. Feels good to get the engine back in, doesn't it? Keep it up. I wait patiently to see what you've done.
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Things are rolling! Gas tank is now entirely coated with rust paint, tho I still have to fix the sender.
Today I put in the rad + supports, the battery stand and connected a whole load of hoses. Also put on the engine harness. Wow, without the rats' nest it's a very simple harness! -Can I clip off those old solenoids from the rats' nest on the harness now? They won't screw anything up any more? And the mystery of the day: a sensor on the top rear of the engine block. It's on my '84 but not on the '83 engine. Since my 84 had cruise control and the 83 didn't, is that what it's related to? Do I need this? https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39665 |
Do yourself a favor and redo those fittings on your Holley FPR while it's easy. The fittings you have are fine, but I GUARANTEE you that the thread tape you used will leak the first time you run fuel thru it. I did the exact same thing on my 1985 GS several years ago. No matter how hard you tighten the fittings, they will still leak. Get some of the Permatex thread sealant stuff that is safe for gasoline. It is great, and will keep you from getting leaks on first startup.
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This stuff. It's awesome.
http://www.permatex.com/images/Displ...otos/59235.jpg http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ad_Sealant.htm |
Originally Posted by Glazedham42
(Post 10765856)
Do yourself a favor and redo those fittings on your Holley FPR while it's easy. The fittings you have are fine, but I GUARANTEE you that the thread tape you used will leak the first time you run fuel thru it. I did the exact same thing on my 1985 GS several years ago. No matter how hard you tighten the fittings, they will still leak. Get some of the Permatex thread sealant stuff that is safe for gasoline. It is great, and will keep you from getting leaks on first startup.
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Well... if I'm going to change it now is the time. I picked up thread sealant today, exact package you show there, though it doesn't say anywhere on the package that it's good for gasoline... I'll just hope? I don't know if the tape I used was for gasoline either!
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The permatex website says that it is safe for gasoline, although it doesn't say it on the tube when you buy it. I have a couple of tubes out in my toolbox and they are the same way. I've used it before though, and it works great. I personally like it better than the teflon tape.
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Originally Posted by pinoyremix
(Post 10730884)
I fit a gslse tank under my 83 S without any issues
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I install the fuel lines and fuel level sender into the tank today and covered the bottom with undercoating. Tomorrow I'll do the top. The old sender had corroded away an entire spade terminal, both sides, but I have an extra from my rear wiper motor that I'll connect to the existing wires with butt connectors (I feel like an electrical expert already lol.)
Found me a 3L220 belt and installed that properly, good ol' bicycle chain technique. Since I left off all the emissions stuff, I couldn't just follow the excellent tutorial (cheers RX7Carl et al) step by step. After reading up all over the site, I've decided to route my vacuum tubing like this: 1. Run a vacuum advance line from the #2 carb spacer vacuum source (the original application) to the dizzy advances 2. Leave the oil tube holes open and install the 90degree fitting in the oil cap, like Wackyricer. He seems to know what he's doing and it sounds simplest. 3. Run a line from the main body carb vent (just under the fuel lines) to the vacuum source on the firewall running to the charcoal canister. That's it. Is this a good idea? I have no A/C, no cruise anyway. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39726 |
I personally connected the two vents on the oil neck/center iron to the intake. I have read that the center iron bung needs a vacuum to properly vent, but i'm no expert. Your oil cap mod should keep the lung butter out of the oil neck.
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She's so close! All that's left to do in the front:
-change spark plugs and re-install spark wires (Optional: install 2GDFIS or whatever the hell it is) -replace all fluids. In the rear: -Install Carter pump and fuel tank, reconnect brakes. THEN WE'RE ON THE ROAD FINALLY! Here's the new pics Wackyricer-style crankcase vent https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39804 Fuel tank ready to re-install https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39805 Engine bay almost ready to go https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39806 I worked into the dark tonight. The hood is cleaned and re-installed, air cleaner on, all unused vacuum lines capped, and this is just before the battery was dropped back in https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39807 The battery's been out for two months. I'm glad she's still alive! Can't wait to crank her over once all is ready. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39808 https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39809 |
Start attempt #1.
The exhaust is in. The fuel system is all hooked up. The coolant and oil are filled, the shifter is installed and the spark plugs and wires have been installed in the new beast. So this is what I'm running: '84 GSL '83 engine with 130,000 km Rebuilt and mostly stripped Nikki Blocked-off intake Brand new rad RB exhaust Carter 4070 FPR and gauge First start attempt tonight ended without the engine catching, coolant leaking a little from the thermostat neck, and FUEL SPRAYING from the carb at the washer just behind the fuel lines. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39923 The carter sounds like it's working and the FPR, I don't know yet. I'll be looking into possible reasons for the leak. Also the engine sounds tired when it's turning over. Not sure how else to describe it. This engine has been sitting for at least a year tho. |
Did u ever find out what that thing ontop of the engine is?? I have a 84 engine in my 83 with that thing on it not hooked to anything and was kind of curious.
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Originally Posted by Alex84GSL
(Post 10763398)
And the mystery of the day: a sensor on the top rear of the engine block. It's on my '84 but not on the '83 engine. Since my 84 had cruise control and the 83 didn't, is that what it's related to? Do I need this?
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=39665 |
Great thanks SgtFox.
UPDATE: SHE LIVES! Running on one rotor right now though. The carb I rebuilt wasn't working for some reason, and I had checked spark and fuel lines up to the carb. Familiar territory for me now though :biggrin: I know my Nikkis somewhat! I stripped my old Nikki in about a half hour and put her on instead of the rebuilt one, and I now have ONE ROTOR running, the rear rotor. Spark seems good on the front rotor a pull-out-and-visually-check; I can accelerate slowly, with the putt-putting sound of the one rotor dragging the bad one around. I manually opened the secondaries and it revved better, but still sounds like the other rotor is not catching. So: I am reasonably sure I have fuel/air I checked and saw spark If it's compression I would need to rebuild, so that sucks and I'm going to check everything else first! Is it possible my dizzy is off timing? This is how the rotor and dizzy sit with the main pulley at TDC. (Yes I advanced the timing by rotating the dizzy, I was trying to see if it would catch better) https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=40019 https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=40020 |
Sounds like you may have a bad ignitor? This sounds similar to why my car did when I had a bad ignitor. There is a test procedure in the Haynes. Or you can just replace them with GM style HEI ignitors for about $20-$30. I would definitely check the ignitors, or do some swapping around with them and see what happens. It's very possible you have a bad one.
To check compression the poor man's way...... Take one of your spark plugs out of the front rotor. Crank the engine over. Listen for 3 solid puffs, one for each rotor face. Replace spark plug. Repeat procedure for the rear rotor. This will at least let you know if you're getting compression on all the rotor faces or not. You can hear if some puffs are stronger than others. If you have a bad apex seal you'll usually hear PSHH ______ _____ PSHH ________ ________. Two/three bad apex seals will be _______ _______ _____ _______ _______ ______ . Three good apex seals will be PSHH PSHH PSHH PSHH PSHH PSHH. It's a cheap, fast way to see if your 12A is a total paperweight or not. ^^ Be sure to disable the ignition system before you do the ghetto compression test. Don't wan't to start a fire. :D |
Oh HELL.
Front rotor has bad compression. I don't have the cash right now to do a rebuild. That's that for at least a month, I guess. |
I could be way off on this, so someone confirm this before you try, but I seem to recall that when my 7 sat for a while I had to put a little oil in through the intake to get conpression back. Might be worth a shot. Good luck.
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Whoa! Don't give up yet! Could be a stuck apex seal or seals. Squirt some marvel mystery oil, or seafoam or something into the spark plug hole on the front rotor. Something that will dissolve carbon. Slowly crank the engine over by hand to coat all three of the apex seals. You will want to put in some oil on each of the three rotor faces. Let it sit for a couple of days, and then try running it again. If the seals are stuck they may break loose. If the engine hasn't run for a long time, then one of your apex seals may be stuck, or have significant carbon buildup. Give it the Marvel Mystery Oil treatment for a couple of days and see if it will break loose.
You can also remove your exhaust manifold / header and visibly inspect the apex seals thru the exhaust port, as you crank the engine over by hand. You can shine a flashlight in the exhaust port, or take a picture with a digital camera. That will let you see if the apex seals are chipped or broken, or whatever. I would do that first. If the seals are broken it will be obvious by looking thru the exhaust ports. Don't give it the death sentence just yet though! There's still an outside chance that the apex seals need loosened up. |
Please explain exactly what your compression results are...
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I did the poor man's compression test. The rear rotor, which is working, gave me a strong steady WHOOSH-WHOOSH-WHOOSH. The front rotor, which hasn't been firing, was feeble, but seemed to me to be more of a strong-weak-weak. It was MUCH weaker than the rear rotor.
I bought a can of Seafoam Deep Creep, and slowly cranked the main pulley around while spraying it into the front rotor's spark plug holes. Now I'll let it sit a day or two and then try again. Meanwhile, I've got a garage to clean and tools to organize. |
Update:
I tried again today with the same results. The front rotor gives no compression still, and I can clearly tell a STRONG-weak-weak pattern in the puffs - all of which are very weak compared to the rear rotor. Is it possible that if the problem apex seal is just stuck, I can poke it through the exhaust very carefully and loosen it? Today the rear rotor wouldn't catch like it did yesterday, so I have a non-running car again. However I am concerned that bad gas could also be a culprit. I had about 8 litres in there that I can taken out two months ago, and left them in plastic ice cream pails. When I put them back in, I noticed they were about half as full as before and smelled a little funny. Once I tried to start her up the carb smelled like varnish! So I got some fuel additive for old fuel ("removes varnish from lines etc.") and about 18 litres of good gas and poured all that in there along with it. That's when the engine started to catch. Now it's starting to smell bad again, and not catching again... any thoughts? |
Sounds to me like one apex seal is not sealing. I would pull the exhaust manifold and try to get at it. It sure beats tearing the engine apart. Good luck.
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That's it gentlemen. The fat lady has sung.
After a Seafoam soak treatment didn't work, I used a mirror to look down through the trailing spark plug hole while slowly turning the engine over. I saw, as it went around, two silver lines (apex seals) and one black hole where the third should have been. I also saw what looks like grooving in the rotor surface. Then I checked on the old (working) engine I pulled out before, and saw three very clear silver lines. VERDICT: my front rotor has a busted apex seal. Damn, the guy who sold it to me ($300) told me it had compression tested at 110 or 115. Live and learn I guess, I'm going to teardown the original engine because I believe the only problem with it is oil seals (it was smoking before removal.) Thanks for all the help, everyone. |
Tough luck, man. So close. Good luck with your older engine. Looking forward to seeing a video of your car finally running :-)
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Hi gents,
So I've got a 1000-lb engine stand all ready to go. My old 12a is sitting in the garage. It's dirty as all hell but it ran solid until JUST before I pulled it, when it was beginning to give a bit of oil smoke. I also think I overheated it a few times. It's sitting at 192,000 km. (about 120,000 miles for you 'Mericans) The other engine, which I blindly threw in the car hoping that it was in good shape, is missing an apex seal and I think I saw grooving on the rotor face while turning it over and looking through the spark plug hole. So it's probably got one rotor and one housing ruined. I'm going to rebuild the first engine. I'm watching the Aaron Cake rebuild videos, and planning to start ASAP before winter comes, and all Canadians huddle in their igloos. I'd like to put in a street port, but this is my first rebuild. I did a basic restore/fixup job on the car this summer, and I have rebuilt a Nikki. Is a street port wise to try? Do I have the skillz? |
Back in the game
I haven't been lazy, just working!
Since the final fruits of my summer's labour were ruined by a bad apex seal - because I was too dumb to check the damn engine before I built it into the rebuild - I let things go for a couple weeks. Then I met the kid selling this for $400. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41669 It's sure ugly as hell but the engine was a fresh rebuild before the starter went bad, a year ago, and since then it's just been sitting around. I bought it and he paid for the tow. First things first: check the starter. I didn't have the heart to tell him the only problem with his starter was corroded battery cables! It fired right up after 20 min of scraping with a brush. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41674 God what a cluttered engine bay. AC, power steering, fuel injection and other useless things. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41670 Obviously the horror of the fuel injection system must be removed! https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41671 Now you see it... https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41672 Now you don't! https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41673 If I thought the FB rat's nest was bad, this blew my mind. The amount of crap running around on the poor FC's engine is incredible. Now, that engine is much too pretty to stay in that ugly car. This was fixed https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41675 in my garage with no room to work. Look at the paint job on the irons https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41676 So right now I'm watching winter start but still not giving up on the car. I have a GSL-SE oil pan and front cover from 84Stock who also sold me an EDELBROCK 650 THUNDER SERIES. Awesome. Front cover installed so far, with a new oil seal: https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41677 And here's the front cover on https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41678 tonight was a pleasant surprise - looking into the centre iron intake runners, I think they look like they've been ported. No idea how well the job was done, the kid doesn't know anything about it. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41679 Can you see the dremel marks at the back? |
Winter comes really suddenly here in Canada! The roads and yards are white with snow and we won't see temperatures above freezing for months now. And I'm working away in the garage.
Can anyone tell me why my exhaust ports look like this? https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41727 Reattached water pump and plugged injector holes tonight |
Must've been rebuilt. Builder probably just cut the diffusers to help exhaust flow.
Here is a before and after example http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...s/SSPX0381.jpg |
See the inside upper lip on the right compared to the left, feel yours to see if it has been ground away. This will tell you if was ported of if the diffusers were just cut out.
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Kamikaze Kanadian winter
I'm renaming this the Kamikaze build. Reason being:
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41904 This is what it looks like outside right now It's -20 C which is about -5 F with a nasty wind chill My garage is not heated But the engine is nearly ready to go go. I need the blockoff plates still for MOP and EGR valve, and need to torque the e-shaft bolt to 90 ft-lbs. Now I need to get the old stuff out of the car, but it's so damn cold I can't get the fuel hoses off my stripped Nikki. Hair dryer? Swapping tailhousing of my FB trans to the FC trans so I can have lower gear ratios https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=41903 |
Old man winter has arrived with a vengeance
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I'm doing the FC-tranny into FB tailhousing swap but I'm stuck on the pin under the shift lever box on the FC tranny. Looks like this
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=42117 Anyone know how to get it out? The tutorial in the archive is not very helpful, I tried with a hammer and punch and now I've been trying to drill it out, no luck. |
Slotting motor mounts and doing rear brakes
Winter has backed off and been pretty nice here for the last couple weeks, so I got the clutch on and installed my shiny new rear brake calipers. Waiting for my RB intake for the edelbrock, and my throwout bearing before I put the mutant FB/FC trans on the engine.
Shiny https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=42380 https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=42381 This whole operation was a huge pain in the ass, old rusty parts locked together. Spent the last couple days slotting the crossmember a little, and the mounting bracket a little more. Total should come to about 20mm, so I don't have to move anything on the trans. Main concern is how to make sure the engine is still perfectly straight. |
Engine is in! Got my brother to help me after christmas. My RB intake arrived, I bought an air cleaner and tuning kit for the edelbrock 650, also the throwout bearing.
https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=42694 Waiting to be dropped: https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=42696 In the car https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=42695 2nd gen alt installed and belt tightened https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=42692 When I removed the air pump from my 12a, I installed a 3L220 belt between the main pulley and the fan. Looks like it's a little loose on this engine though, I might have to go down a size: https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=42693 Anyone know why? Still to do: -Carb -Reinstall rad, dizzy, clip on engine harness, reconnect all wiring -Install oil cooler (including get new oil hoses made) -Exhaust |
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