The Chief

Hey guys, I'm thinking of buying an '85 RX-7 with 75k original miles. Just got back from giving it a test drive and the car is very smooth and in great shape but I've got a few questions.

First, what should the car idle at? This one was at 1100/1200rpm's, is this high or normal? Socond, once warmed up the car will make a kind of low putt sound every so often. I noticed that whenever the car did this the rpm's went from 1200 to 1100. Does that just mean the car might need a tune up or is there something else I should know about it? Also, is there anything else I should look for?

I don't know much about cars in general let along RX-7's but if I end up with this car you can bet I'll be doing my research. Any info about this is much appreciated.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

First of all welcome to the forum. The idle is too high, should be around 800rpm. First to get
aquainted with your new vehicle. Go to page 9 of first gen specifics and read my post on
1st time fb owners. then we will go from there, again welcome. rx7doctor

The Chief

Thank you for your kindness rx7doctor. I don't own the car yet but will hopefully be buying it this week. I just wanted to check here first to make sure I wans't getting myself in over my head.

I just got done reading your post about first time fb owners, and though I didn't understand what a lot of it meant hopefully if I do get the car I can get into it and do some learning.

So what does the high idle indicate? And does it have something to do with that low bass type sound that came from the car and made the rpm's fluctuate?

Pele

iTrader: (28)

What trim level is it? 12A or 13B engine (Stamped near the distributor... Also evident by intake style... Blue air cleaner is 12A, Aluminium Manifold that reads "EGI" is 13B...)

The idle is high, but it could be covering other problems that're easily solved or worked around. The putt sound is a very minor backfire. It happens on almost every car I've seen (piston or rotary engine.) could be related to a problem that's masked by the high idle though...

What's the asking price?

As for not knowing cars in general, these 1st generation RX-7's are great learning cars. Easy to work on, simple mechanisms, easy maintenance, and as an added bonus, fun to drive. There's not much different about any of the workings on these cars and any others except for the engine...

It's a mass of leftovers from other parts bins...
Steering box is based off the B1600/1800/Ford Courier trucks... Tranny is universal to most N/A Mazdas, Differential is based off the 323 GTX rear, also similar to the Miata diff... Standard solid rear axle and front MacPherson struts...

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

It might be what we call the coasting/shutter valve that is located at the base of the carb, take the air cleaner housing off and listen for a loud honking noise, if it is that it is sort of a
pain to replace but not a big thing, run you about $70-$80. also might be a vacuum leak or the carb is out of adjustment. Alot of things could cause this. rx7doctor

The Chief

I believe it's a 12A, it has a choke so...

The asking price is $2500, good deal or should I pass on it?

I don't know what you mean by the high idle possibly masking other problems. I still need to have a mechanic check it out before I buy it but don't want to get into it if I'm just going to have a bunch of repairs happen all at once.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Heh... That was the same problem with mine... Bad shutter valve... It idled poorly, so some fool decided to crank the throttle cable tight to raise the idle and hide the poor idle... I eventually tracked it down and plugged the hose to the shutter valve.

Eventually, I'll just get an SA manifold to replace it.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Slide the seller a bit lower... Defenately 12A unless this has been modified.

Now wee gotta find out if it has rear disc brakes...

The Chief

The seller said he wants $2500 firm and I can understand it. There is no rust at all on the body and considering it's age and being kept in the North East it's whole life it's a miracle. I believe it's been garaged it's whole life but I'm planning on driving it all year so even though I'm planning on keeping it clean this winter I hope it doesn't rust out on me.

Also, the seller told me it had non power steering and brakes.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Does it say gsl on the back emblem? If so it should have a sunroof, power windows and rear
disc brakes. Does your state require an emmision test? rx7doctor

Pele

iTrader: (28)

How sure are you on that no rust... I'd remove a rear wheel or storage bins and check...

If it is in fact non rust, then snag it.

It defenately has power brakes... All cars have power brakes... I think it's mandatory.

I think non power brakes went out at about the same time front drums did.

Non power steering, I can believe.

BMS2004

umm i have a 86 silverado that has non-power brakes.... i believe it was the 90's when that was all standard. don't worry about non power steering safer if i stalls on the road

as far as for price what condition is the paint in and such and how many miles are on it.

Side note: most mechanics don't know anything about rotaries... Mayeb you could find a member from vermont to go check it out with you.

Ron

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Take a pic. I've never seen a brake master cylinder just stuck to the firewall... Likewise, if anyone has an RX-7 with power steering of a vehicle with front drum brakes, take a pic of that, never seen em before.

I'd assume a $2500 RX-7 should have extraordinary paint and body, esp if it's advertized as rust free and garaged all it's life.

75K miles on it man.

nevarmore

I paid $2500 out the door for my 85 GS from a dealer in Ohio in February. It was in almost the exact same condition that you describe this one. Good interior, paint, no rust, just a high idle (2000rpm, I found out after i got it that it was high). I don't know if this means I got ripped off or if its a good price for you to pay too.

My high idle was not accompanied by the putting noise you describe. Standard idle adjustment did not correct it and I'm currently spending 15 minutes or so a week trying to find the vacuum leak. The high idle has hurt my mileage but it doesn't hurt drivability.

Check all the fluids. Check them all for color and smell. Ask the owner if it burns any oil, if they say no then they either don't drive it, don't check the oil, are lying, or theres a problem. RX-7's drip some oil into the carb to lubricate the seals. Oil the most important fluid to keeping a rotary running strong. Check the coolant too, any indication that the car has been overheated is a warning sign. Excess heat warps some of the thinner parts.

I've been right where you are. I paid that price and didn't look back.

The Chief

I didn't see gsl on the back emblem. It does have a sunroof but not power windows. I'm not sure about the rear disc brakes. The car was just inspected last month but I'm not sure if we have an emmision test.

The body of the car is in great shape, no rust that I could see but I want to have it put up on a lift it have the underbody checked. There is only one small dent on the front side near the headlight and a two inch scratch on the passanger side door that I'll have to get taken care of before winter so it doesn't start to rust. Other than that thought it was in really nice shape especially for the age and seeing as it's been in Vermont/Maine.

Is there any way to find out if there are any members in VT here on the forums? I'd love to have someone who knows what they are talking about take a look at the car. The only thing that worries me is the high idle and low base type sound the car makes.

The Chief

Cool stuff man, I really want the car as it's always been a dream of mine to own one and it seems like a great find I just don't want to get taken due to my lack of knowledge about cars. I think it would be good for getting to know how they work though and doing some of my own repairs.

So you're saying your high idle has taken some life out of your car? as in it won't be drivable for as many miles as it could have been?

Also, how much oil should it burn and how can you tell how much has burned? I know the car is being driven by the current owner so I'll see what he has to say.

The Chief

Ron,

How could I go about finding a member here in Vermont? That would be awesom if there was a member that lived close to me though I doubt I'll get that lucky.

Also, the car has 75k miles.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

If the car is as clean as you say it is and it has only 75k on it, and you always wanted one, well. Should i say more, buy the damn thing and be happy. I would recommend that you find
a dealer that can perform a correct compression check before you buy it. Worth the $50-65.
You can also have them do a quick inspection on her. rx7doctor

The Chief

Yeah, I suppose you're right. That high idle thing just has me a bit worried. Would the Mazda deeler do a compression check? If not I guess I'll start calling garages in town tomorrow to see if anyone specializes in rotarys.

nevarmore

No no. I meant gas milage. She's burning more fuel at idle thus more gas over miles travelled.

Oil consumption should be about 1 qt. every 500 miles or 2 tanks.

The Chief

Ooh, that makes sense.

Is that more oil than most cars need or about average?

mcnannay

^ most cars...or most rotarys? someone already said it but these cars have oil injected into the engine, not a lot, but enough that you need to check your oil regularly. A boinger won't burn that much if running correctly. And i would say a GOOD running rotary wouldn't burn a quart every 500 miles, i think it burns less than that, i may be wrong though. Of course my car burns a quart every 250 miles, but thats another issue

burning oil is good for the car, if its not burning oil, be afraid...

all in all sounds like a good find, now pick it up before someone else does so we can officially welcome you to the rotary community!!