glewsRx

iTrader: (1)

kids probly shouldn't be driving around in a first gen with 200+ hp. Thats not taking a stab at you, but its just what I think. I've been driving for ten years and got my first 7 last year, bone stock, and scared the **** outta myself loosing the backend around curves. learn to drive first (6mo ain't cuttin it) and then think about how much more power you need. I'm guessing the student driver car wasn't a cobra, perhaps a civic or one of those cute little bugs? Your parents should probly sign off on some off this, too. I'm sure mommy doesn't want to hear about her son needing to be pulled out of a sardine can with the jaws of life.

gerbraldy

you have a good point glews. Its really the person though, yes a BIG majority of people just starting to drive *think they can handle the power and once you have 250hp in a 2200lb car things can get real ugly real fast.

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

glewsRx, i completely agree. thats why ive decided to upgrade my brakes, suspension, and rear. for now, it will make the car all around safer to drive, and will be needed for when i do the swap. i have the money for most of that stuff now, and by the time i save the money for the swap i will be a more experienced driver. also, every idea i have for this car i discuss with my dad because he gave me the car as a cancer present. and i feel bad just taking the car and doing what i want with it, so he still has a say in what i do with it. and im not looking for an insane amount of hp/tq. im just looking for a fun car to drive that i can take to the track every once in a while and the occasional street race.

glewsRx

iTrader: (1)

Well, i think you found it in the fb. I know it is low on hp and tq but I can't remember anything more fun than drifting through big intersections in a car that nobody has seen in 10 years. And all that for about a grand. tell that to civdick drivers. Good luck with everything, and congrats on pwning cancer.

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

what i was thinking was, 200hp in a 2300 lb car would definitely move. so i was thinking about getting just a T2 motor and tranny. no front mount intercooler, no upgrades, just the stock engine with a T2 scoop over the intercooler. all that will be done after the other stuff and when i feel i will be able to handle the car. and thanks for the congrats! i had my last chemo treatment on june 29th and i just had my port taken out last thursday. so its 100% over and done with.

jays83gsl

It's always good to hear someone who kicks cancer in the sack.

As for the GSl rearend for 200, it can be found better, that isn't the killer deal I was talking about

Without upgrades, the rear discs DO stop slower, I finally tested it myself (well, I was riding along with someone. Damn broken leg!).

I think it's because the rears are solid, not vented, when they're discs.

If you see a complete rear end for under $100, get it. Anything over that and it can wait.
As I said before, this should be rather low on your 'upgrade' priorities.

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

well i figured i would do this before i upgrade the brakes. that way its one less thing i have to worry about. should i try to talk the guy into selling it to me for less? what should i try to get it for? because other than this, ive never seen another rear end for an 81-83 gls for sale. so i dont know what i should be paying for one.

and i asked this in my other thread about the diff swap, but what else do i need besides the rear and driveshaft? is there anything i need to change? i was told i might need to change the master cylinder, but i should ask on here just to make sure.

jays83gsl

Yeah, the master cylinder you have is built for rear drums.
If he refuses to sell it under 100 I don't really think it's worth it.

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

ok, ill try to get him under $100. but i thought about it, and the main reason i wanted the rear end was because i was planning on getting a lot of horsepower out of my car, and i figured a stronger one wouldnt hurt. but if im just going to throw a stock T2 engine/tranny in there, is it really worth it to buy the rear?

EDIT: i told the guy that i was interested in the rear for $200, but i might be able to just say that something came up and i had to replace some stuff in my car (which is true) and say i only have like, $75 left over. because if he just has a rear end sitting in his back yard, he probably just wants to get rid of it.

jays83gsl

It's true, usually local buyers have trouble getting rid of these things (at least, where I live they do!)

$100 can get you other stuff if you're planning on doing a T2 rearend swap in the future (think brakes)

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

i have about $700 to spend. my birthday was the 10th and im selling some paintball gear for car money. so i was thinking a little more than just brakes. like i mentioned before, racing beat suspension kit (springs and sway bars), tokico struts, new rotors and pads. and im not doing a T2 rear end swap, just the engine and transmission. unless you think its necessary to swap out the rear for a completely stock T2 motor.

jays83gsl

That should about use up your $700 as far as I know.

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

most likely more than that. i may have more than $700, i have to check. plus, i still have more birthday cards coming and the paintball stuff im selling.

i was looking on racing beat for shocks, and i only see front struts for '81'85 rx7's. they have rear struts for '79-'85, but will the '81-'85's fit my car?

jays83gsl

Hmmm. They SHOULD. As far as I know, the front end is pretty much the same. Maybe you should wait for someone more knowledgeable on the SA/FB differences to answer before you buy them though.

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

i could always email rb and ask them. actually, ill do that right now.

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

here is everything i can think of to put on my car, other than the swap:

racing beat suspension package:
front/rear springs, front/rear sway bars: $462.60
racing beat strut tower brace: $298
tokico rear struts(2): $82
tokico front struts (2) assuming they fit: $132
hawke hp plus brake pads (not sure if its for one brake or two) (x2): $65
mazdatrix aftermarket front rotors (x2): $63.39
mazdatrix rear drums (x2): $113.30

thats almost $1500 worth of stuff that i could buy for handling. i definitely dont have $1500, so out of that list, what order should i buy this stuff in?

jays83gsl

The hawke's (it's for one)
Front rotors
Rear Drums
Suspension package
Strut tower brace
Struts

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

bad news about the struts... i emailed racing beat and heres how they replied...

"We haven't actually installed a set of shocks on a '79 for about 20 years, so we are bit foggy on the differences between the later models, sorry. I would assume that they are not compatible, or else the application guide wouldn't be as specific. You are faced with what many others are faced with.... declining demand for products for these older cars. In this case, both Koni and Tokico have stopped offering performance shocks for this application. You can still obtain "standard" replacements from Gabriel, KYB, etc... but unless you find someone that has a few performance shocks in their warehouse, you may be out of luck."

any ideas on what i could do on the front?

jays83gsl

OUCH.

KYB aren't a bad brand in my experience.

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

mazdatriz has KYB Gas shocks/strut inserts for $69.24. but theyre only inserts, not the whole thing. and if i buy them, should i buy KYB for the front and tokico for the rear, or KYB all around? they also have the original front equipment for $98.16.

jays83gsl

Well, think of it this way: Your rear needs the most help anyway. Therefore, buy the good stuff for the rear.

KYB is better than OEM. Trust me.

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

ok. also, i found out the brand name of mazdatrix's brakes. heres their email...

"The aftermarket ones are whatever brand our supplier has. Usually they are either Brembo or Mountain. They are what we consider a somewhat "lesser" quality, but considerably less expensive than OEM.

We are highly involved with racing the 79-85 RX7's. The Mountain rear rotors work fine (and Brembos are not available). We found about equal life out of front rotors from both Mazda OEM and Brembo, but on the RACE CARs we were not impressed with the FRONT Mountain brand. We keep Brembo ones in stock for the 84-85 12A. I believe they are also currently available for the 79-83 ones. If you want Brembo fronts, please simply request them in the "comment" line when you place the order."

so i guess ill be getting the brembo front and mountain rear rotors. which brings me to my next question. about that rear end. like ive said before, i was planning on getting a lot of horsepower out of my T2 swap. but since ive decided to just keep the T2 motor stock when i put it in i was having second thoughts about the rear. should i really get this rear end if im only going to be running a stock T2 motor and tranny? because for $100 i can get something else for my car that i will actually need. so should i just keep my rear and upgrade the stock drums, or should i try to get the rear for cheaper, and how much should i try to get it for?

jays83gsl

I've said it before, the $100 is better spent elsewhere.

rxtuner79

iTrader: (1)

i just want to thank everyone for the loads of information that youve given me throughout this whole thread. youve helped me a lot with upgrading and learning about my car. i really appreciate it. especially jays83gsl.

LaRazaUnida

If you love him so much, then why dont you marry him???