bouis

I swapped the drum rear end in my '85 for a disc brake rear end from an 81 or 82.

When swapping the flanges, how much torque should be put on the nut? Since I don't have an impact I took it to someone who changed it easily enough [and for free] but when he put it back on he bumped it with the impact. I got the feeling it was over-tightened. I guess I could have asked him to re-do it but I'm afraid that might not have sealed properly with less torque.

I topped off the fluid that was in the rear end with about 2/3 of a quart of 80w90.

When I started driving it, it made a light metallic rubbing noise. I wasn't sure if it was the differential or the new brake pads. After a minute or two, the noise went away except when deacclerating. Another twenty minutes and it went away completely.

I'm not sure what this was. I hope it's better now and not just worn off or broken. Any thoughts?

I drove the car 35 minutes on the freeway home. No unusual noises [that's unusual!], but when I got off the interstate and turned 90 degrees at a stop sign, I felt and heard a pretty good shudder from the right rear. I thought maybe I had a flat tire or a broken suspension link but neither was apparent.

It did this a few more times. I assume this is LSD chatter but I've never experienced it before. I'm going to change the fluid in another fifty miles with some good synthetic.

Rx7carl

Thats probably LSD chatter. Try some additive. Thats not the way to put a yoke on the diff. It should be torqued correctly. The procedure is in the FSM, it isint a a set torque, read it and youll see what I mean. The proper torque upsets the crush collar and puts the correct preload on the pinion shaft bearings and sets the pinion height based on the shim used. I know alot of people just bolt em on and go and have no problems, but thats not the correct way of doing it. Your supposed to replace the crush collar everytime you loosen that nut. Its a one time use thing. Setting up diff's is tricky and precision work. Im not trying to scare you, like I said, most people dont do it correctly and seem to have no troubles, just letting you know the correct way of doing it. I spent alot of time getting my 4:88's in my racecar and they are perfectamundo.

bouis

Hey, Carl, I'm very happy to hear about your daughter.

Unfortunately I didn't have my FSM with me, or even a Haynes, and I had to have it done "real soon now" so I just had it done, you know?

About the crush washer, I need to read up on that. And now I have.

It says 94 to 130 ft lbs. Which is about what I would have guesed the guy hit it with.

It's not making any noise and it's not leaking. I guess I'm just going to call it good enough.

bouis

I fucked up though. I have an older driveshaft with bad u-joints. I should have had them replaced and the shaft balanced and used that, but I really needed it done then.

bouis

Also, I did notice that the preload had changed after swapping the yokes. Initially it was pretty tough to turn [much harder than the '85s open diff that could almost be turned with a finger] and afterwards it was even tougher.

Unfortunately I don't know how to translate this feeling into measurements like the FSM has. Just how hard should it be to turn?

wwilliam54

you want an 82 driveshaft?
price, let me check out your car