stupid pulley question.
 

how do i ask this with out sounding like a complete dumb ass. iam thinking of buying a Gilmer Drive Pulley Kit. I am removing my rats nest, and would like to keep things simple and run just one belt. i remember reading in a post on this site that you have to be careful when you remove the pulley on the e-shaft. i forget what post i read this in, i cant find it now. what do i have to worry about ect.

Isnt the gilmer drive pulley kit a under drive system?

Watch this video and I bet you will change your mind

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9g9d9G3NaYc

from what i have read depends on what kit you get. the one i am looking at is not a under drive kit. i am just worried about removing the e-shaft pulley. is there any thing i have to worry about. :dunno:
http://www.tweakit.net/shop/images/r...13bt_01_sm.gif


i know about the sound ect. just worried about removing the main pulley.

Sounds like its running a blower.

I think I read something about if you remove the front pully you have to reset the backlash on the e-shaft / bearing or something along those lines.

thats it thats what i was worried about. i could not remember what it was for the life of me. but i think read some thing like you only have to worry if you loosen the big bolt the center 19mm) not the smaller outer bolts. who should i ask to find out.:dunno:

If you ever remove the 19mm bolt on the front pulley, you need to read this first:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

do i need to remove the 19mm bolt to install the pulley.

i feel like a such a noob.:newbie: that link got me even more confused.

From what I read you just need to keep the clutch depressed the whole time you're working on the front pulley.

From that Mazdatrix link provided by gsl-se addict : What any of the above steps ( depressing the clutch being one of them) will do is to hold the rear torrington bearing in place against the thrust plate - keeping it from dropping out of place if the spacer moves forward

aslo, make sure the keyway pin for the counterbalance doesn't come out. that happened when i was installing my S/C pulley, and i had to pull the front cover to get it lined up again! big PITA

so if i under stand this, when i get the pulley kit i need to have a friend or a 2x4 hold my clutch pedal down. remove the 4 smaller bolts and replace pulley. dont have to worry about any thing else ect?

i heard that the gilmer drive pullies play hell with alternator bearings too... truth behind this?

so i did more researching and iam still confused. guess ill try to find some people who have rebuilt motors and ask them.:dunno: unless some one chimes in.

Wondering the same thing myself about this. Was gonna get the setup also

iam just out of it i guess. i was hoping changing the e-pulley would be as easy as changing the alt pulley. if i got this right all i have to do is have the clutch held down while i remove the 4 small nuts and the 19mm. throw the new pulley on and re tighten to spec. is that true , please some one chime in here that has changed there e-pulley and tell us what we have to do.

if you are removing the pulley have the clutch pressed in fully during the entire process. simple.


edit: wat 4 small bolts (having rouble picturing it) think you just need the 19 no?

i think i was confused by a picture of a car i found on the net:wallbash: so forget the comment about 4 nuts.


i was just worried that this was over my head. i think its just iam so scared of messing my motor up over some thing simple.

before i replace the pulley is there any thing else i need to do to the car besides having the clutch pressed in the whole time.

i know to disconnect the battery, and have any thing out of the way removed. is there any thing else i should be careful of.

what is the reason for having the clutch pressed in?

thats the thing i would like to know to

read the freakin tutorial from mazdatrix............

It CLEARLY states that it is being depressed becuase it applies pressure (indirectly) on the flywheel which results in it holding the 'thrust' bearings in place against the thrust plate without allowing either of the bearings to slip and be pinched by the plate resulting in damage to the bearing and ultimately you shaft,

read that tutorial again


"Here is the "bad" thing that can happen when that front bolt is loosened - there is nothing to hold the spacer in place, and it gets pulled forward when the pulley is removed. Since the bearing can't also go forward (it's against the thrust plate), it simply drops down behind the spacer."

This shows the bearing dropped down out of place, between the thrust plate and the rear thrust washer.

You can see what happens to the bearing when the front is reassembled, and the bolt tightened! The spacer smashes the bearing.


thats what happens folks if you do not maintain clutch pressure. Unless you engine is out in which event, you need to set it up on flywheel




EDIT: What any of the above steps will do is to hold the rear torrington bearing in place against the thrust plate - keeping it from dropping out of place if the spacer moves forward.

Yea do not get a friend to hold the clutch in. Because you don't know if your gonna have to stop and do something or if he or she will simply lift off and the bearing can drop. Block the tires so it won't roll. Emergency break then something to keep it pressed in.

st got a email from pineapple racing. they told me i just have to remove the 4 bolts and ill be fine no worry about bearing.

the pully...the stock pully is placed and timed on the e-shaft a certain way but can be bolted differently...If you don't mount the stock pully back up in the same way it came off it will throw the timing off...So just becareful...Im sure the gilmer drive pully kit comes with instructions...i plan on buying the same kit myself...But im pretty sure the gilmer kit come complete where he/she take the stock pully bolt out put the gilmer pully in throw back the huge main pully bolt in and he/she is set...

It won't come off without the center bolt though right? How does taking the 4 off stop the bearing from dropping?

Why would anyone want to use a Gilmer belt for this application? It's a PITA to install, with a chance of disturbing the motor, and it means a more difficult field repair if/when a belt fails.

Gilmer belts are designed to maintain critical timing in the valve train of a boinger, they are not designed to carry larger loads. In fact, they probably fail easier than a v-belt (properly tensioned).

If you think that a Gilmer belt driving an alternator will add eye-candy to your car, you are mistaken. Perhaps you should print "NOOB" in big red letters on your forehead, for such is what knowledgeable RX-7 owners will think when they see that setup.