nothingbutrotor

Yeah

edit : and that's not rust in the fender well, thats just dirt. I just noticed that, i was like WTF IS THAT RUST?! so i ran out there and looked.

Rogue_Wulff

Thats cool, I am always going out by DL. In fact, did you see another red 1st gen friday? If so, that was me. I am actually in SW Tulsa. Be more than happy to come give ya a hand.
Back to the topic, I am assuming from your post in the south forum and the vented rear rotor, that you have an SE. They should just slide right off, so it's likely just rusted to the axle. Apply heat to the mating surface, and a few whacks later, it oughta pop right off.

nothingbutrotor

Right-O. I'm going to get the butane bottle and nozzle now, Hopefully this works, im about to roll over and die.

And actually, yeah, I think I have seen another red one out here, driving down 41st by the bank and stuff, I flipped up my headlights as a form of RX7 wave

BUSAFREAK

Instead of pics of the rotor, how's about pics of the hammer that you are using? Get a mallot on that. Just be careful not to hit the studs. Screw your lug nuts on incase you miss you wont screw up the treads.
Like t_g_farrell stated, heat that sucker up if all else fails. I hate rust!

nothingbutrotor

Yeah, I have been using a pretty small rubber hammer, i'm waiting on my uncle to get home so I can call him and borrow his big rubber mallet. I just sat out there and kept heat on it for a few minutes then i got tired of sitting on gravel, so I'm going to wait till he gets back so I can heat it, then hit it.

nothingbutrotor

Okay, still nothing. I have a question though, Are the studs attached to the rotor? or are the attached to the hub?

Hades12

Attached to the Axle.

Use a big hammer and hit between the studs, Not a rubber mallot. If you are replacing the rotors then you can hit the rotor from behind.

nothingbutrotor

success!
For anyone else who this problem, remember these two words. come-along.
I took a ratched come-along and hooked it to the bumper of my dads truck, wraped the cable aroudn the back of the rotor and cranked it slowly until it got a lot of tension, then I took a ball pin hammer (thanks rogue_wulff) to it and within two good whacks it came off.

Now it is time to get down to the real work and solve the problem! time to pull the axle

nothingbutrotor

One last question, How do I pull the axle? That sounds stupid, But what I mean, is there a clip or a screw or anything holding it in place in the rear-end? or do I just need to give it some brute force?

Rogue_Wulff

Remove the bolts/nuts behind the axle flange. There is nothing inside the housing holding the axle in.
You may need to rent an axle puller from autozone or o'reilly. Those bearings are a tight fit in the axle housing. Sometimes you can use the same ball peen hammer on the backside of the flange to drive the axle out, and the come-along trick can also assist here. A short loop of chain attached to opposite wheel studs, and apply tension, the hit the back of the axle.

nothingbutrotor

Okay, and same goes for putting it back in? Just a lot of pressure? I took all the bolts off that were connect to the flange that the dust pan was attached to, was this right?

Rogue_Wulff

Going back in, use the rubber mallet.
Yes, 3 or 4 bolts/nuts on the end of the housing, where the dust plate is.

nothingbutrotor

Okay thanks, i should be able to have this pulled tonight then, I still have a little bit of daylight left

nothingbutrotor

okay, last question, really, whats a good brand to buy the bearing, seals, and races from? I'm going to call O'Reilly's and AutoZone, but I dont want something from china, i've had too many bad expieriences. I'm down with japan and the US, but everything I buy that is made in china explodes or catastrohpically fails on me.

Rogue_Wulff

Not sure what brand AZ carries (timken I think), but oreilly has BCA bearings. I have always had good luck with BCA. Another option, is allied bearing in tulsa. These days, most everyone keeps bearings made in china. Sometimes even name brands are just china re-box units.
You are aware the bearing will need pressed off and on the axle, correct?

nothingbutrotor

Yeah, i'm just going to go ahead and pick up the bearings, seals and the race before I take it to a shop.

Do I need to pick up a race, or not?

Rogue_Wulff

The bearing should be a single unit, no seperate race. There should be an additional lock ring with the bearing. Of course, the seal could be all that's actually bad, but hard to say for sure.

nothingbutrotor

It is a possiblity, but the real reason I was changing my brake pad in the first place is I thought it was worn down really far because I could hear something grinding, so I think it is the bearing, Idon't know if a seal would make a grinding sound when you drove if it went bad

Rogue_Wulff

Bet it is the bearing then.

nothingbutrotor

Yeah, i'm pretty sure it is. But hey, do you know anywhere in Tulsa that will press off the bearings and press the new ones back on for a decent price?

Rogue_Wulff

J&E (napa) in sapulpa has a machine shop that I have always trusted.

nothingbutrotor

Awesome, I will go out there for it, how much do you thinkt hey would charge? Surely it shouldnt be too much, I sure as hell hope not. I called O'Reilly's and I get my seal and bearing on wednesday. So I hope to have it back on the road by thursday.