I've got an oil drain plug on my SE LSD differential that is completely stripped (on the inside where the breaker bar fits) and I've had no luck trying to loosen it--it's on there tight. I'm about to buy an extractor set and drill through it to try to remove it but thought I'd ask here if anyone has seen the same problem and might have another solution.

 

i think thats going to be your only hope. try heating around the plug a little bit when you go to pull it out. if that doesnt work you may have to drill it completely out and retap it. how in the hell did the plug get stripped out anyway?

 

If you have a welder you could weld a bolt into it and try getting a wrench on that.

Or you could heat it up and try using a hammer and cold chisel on the edge of the plug to get it loose.

I would avoid the drilling it out just because you'll end up getting metal chips in the pumpkin and then you'll have to take the whole thing apart and clean it out.

 

Are there enough threads showing to get a good set of vice grips on it?

Rich

 

You can also try your local parts store for a rubber plug like they use on F/S Dodges or i think you can get an expandable plug with a wing nut on it ( just remember put the nut on the outside)

 

I tried getting it to turn a couple years ago at an auto-hobby shop; when I couldn't get it to turn with a normal 14" breaker bar, a "helpful" bystander offered to help and slid a pipe over it to get more torque. As soon as he cranked on it he stripped the inside. I've been stuck ever since.

I've tried the vice grips (got about 1/8" exposed) but no luck. I may have to try having a shop weld a nut on it and go from there.

 

Instead of a nut, try a bolt. If you have one of the rear link bolts laying around, cut it down to where the shaft is 3/8" long. Weld that on. During the welding, the heat will penetrate through the rust/corrosion that is siezing the plug. While the bolt is still hot from welding, grab a chunk of beeswax and place it on the bolt only. The wax will help cool and shrink the bolt and plug. Immediately put a wrench on it, while the case is still hot.

This method works great using a torch and wax on exhaust manifold bolts that are siezed in cast iron manifolds, should work here too.

 

Success today. I had the welder standing by as a backup but the Snap-On tool guy recommended an extractor socket to fit over the 1/8" of exposed thread at the end of the plug. He loaned me a few sizes to be sure. Once I got the right size one hammered on, it dug in and turned. Put the new plug in and 20 minutes later I was finished. Now I just have to return the sockets I don't need any more.

Thanks for the advice.