Any reccomendations guys? Haven't actually driven it yet either, got it up to temp, revs well but won't idle for ****.
I did the emissions removal while the engine was out, I belive everything is how it should be, all new gaskets, blah blah blah.
Just want some pointers before i start turnin screws.
Thanks
Joe

 

you got a SP?! since when?! Need more info too dude, What's the spark like, vaccum leaks, fuel, etc.

 

it's candyassmilers car, timing should be good, started pretty easy

 

First make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks, because that will thwart your efforts to fine tune. With that out of the way, adjust mixture. With the car turned off, screw the mix screw all the way in, being careful to not force at the end or you'll damage the screw tip. Then screw out 1 1/2 - 2 turns. Turn the engine over, screw the mix screw in until it starts to haunt, then screw out 1/2 turn. Then adjust the idle screw as needed. Once idle speed has been reached, screw back in the mix screw until it starts to haunt and then screw out 1/2 turn.

 

wow now, the stock nikki can handle a sp 12a? i thought there wasn't enough cfm. or did u advance/retard the timing???

 

I give that a try, pretty sure no leaks, just a bit weary of messing with the screws as it isn't my car and it has to drive 75 miles tomarrow morning.

 

well everything seems to check out, off the rev it goes down to 1500 bounces back and fourth from 1k a couple times then dies, can't figure it out, messing with the idle screws is last resort.
Any ideas?

 

get that damn thing running joe. use your mexican loving on it.

 

Ok that jumping up and down of the rpms is a vacuum leak, for sure. Find it. Don't mess with mixture and idle speed until you resolve the vacuum leak.

 

Stock nikki can handle a sp 12A. It just won't be able to get the maximum performance out of the engine.

 

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Double check EVERYTHING for leaks. If its an FB carb, adjust the mixture screw. Tighten it by HAND till it seats, then 3 turns out. Then check the idle speed screw. Increase it till you get it to idle. Get back to us after that if its still not running.

 

Still can't find this leak if there is one. We got it to idle at 1500 after fooling with the mix and speed but after revving it would die again.
Possible a jet is clogged ater josseling the carb around?
I'm going to pull the top off tonight and give it a look over.
Any ideas Carl?

Thanks
Joe

 

So it idles smoothly now at 1500? What happens if you try to lower the idle speed from there? Does it surge/chug/hunt/fluctuate? How did you adjust the mixture?

I assume that the ignition timing is ok?

 

Relativley smooth, it would die when we lowered the speed, adjusted per your instructions, or maybe it was cdrads.
There's obviously some sort of problem.

Ignition timing damn close if not on, can't get it to idle low enough.

 

How exactly did you look for vacuum leaks?

 

checked all the lines, sprayed wd-40, did several different senarios to check for differences.
There a better way?

 

No, you're methods are OK. Did you double check the ACV block off plate? that can be a source for vacuum leaks that is not easy to detect. Same for the block off plate for the pipe going to the cat.

 

definately, My car idled at 1200 till I found mine. (now at 500 rpm need to turn it back up some) It was a giant leak on the intake. didn't ever know about it till I pull my exhaust mani off. look below the carb around the intake for something that wasn't plugged, thats what happened to me.

Ron

EDIT: also might want to check the cap and rotor, make sure you getting a nice clean spark.

 

definately a vacuum leak, When i took off my emmissions, I had a small leak where the ACV goes, so i filled a little hole dehind the acv with jb weld, and it worked like a charm, also when looking at the acv, there is a little nipple on the right of the acv kinda hidden, thats always a prime suspect too. In your case cause it'll idle at 1500 i'd get the old propane tourch out, and when you hear the idle go up, theres your problem. Good luck, its a pain, but it'll be worth it in the end.

 

...
..AVS...do you have the air vent selenoid hooked up or did you remove the spring inside?

 

Used new gaskets and a thin layer of permatex.
Cap and rotor are good.
Air vent solenoid? That's for the A/C right, I removed it if so.

I'll get to the bottom of it, getting pretty frustrated though.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Just for the record- an idle that surges then drops is caused (at least in my case) by the idle enrichment solenoid, located on the passenger's side of the carb. It's got one wire leading to it. You can probe it with a voltmeter and see it actuate, or hear it click when it fires. It keeps the engine from dying.

But yeah... I've got the same problem on my 12A. Bastard won't idle below 1100rpm. Sucks.

 

Ok i corrected a couple things that were suspicious but it got me no where, It will idle rather smoothly at 1500 but dosen't like it below, anything under 1200 is out of the question.
What would be the appropriate idle for a street port? The intakes have been hogged pretty good but the exhaust ports have barely been touched.

Thanks
Joe

 

It should be able to idle 800 rpm with no problem.

Do you have any local friend who can give you a hand finding the vacuum leak?

If not, take some pictures around the intake manifold, all your vacuum lines and let us take a look at them.