Ever put a wideband on it?? Rotaries will run "best" when running leaner.... that is until they blow up. I would bet if you tore down your engine you're going to see some nice bluing on your irons and other signs over over heating from a lean mixture. Fact is.... more air=more fuel, and the stock pump is borderline at best.

For OP.... if the carb is in unknown condition, tear it down and rebuild it. I never understood why people like to throw money at things rather than do some work. Tear it down, inspect it, and clean it..... get a good quality rebuild kit and put it back together. Then you can eliminate a ton of variables from the equation that Kenetsu posted. If you're still having problems, look towards other issues like fuel pump.. etc.

 

What were the results of this test? Did you try it? Results would really help to narrow down your issue...


P.S. Seafoam will only make your car smoke if you:

a. Dump it down the carb
b. Suck it in through a vacuum line

Your best bet is always going to be dumping it in the tank and driving the car. Any other method (like vacuum line) can result in issues afterward.

 

I have ran two bottles(of seafoam) through the fuel, and I have yet to see a significant change. I will rebuild the carburetor, but while i don't have time to rebuild a carb. with my current schedule, I do have time to change a fuel filter. I will buy one more bottle, and try dumping some down the carb. Also, it seems as if I accelerate slowly, there is less sputtering. Thanks again everyone.

 

Everything your saying definantly sounds carb related. I guarantee when you rebuild it everything will be perfect

 

Very cool. I will get a rebuild kit and tear into it with SMW website close in hand. It will be a minute before i can get to it, I found a kit for around 25$. Any recommended brands?

 

lol, if you would run the test I gave you you'd be able to tell for sure if the problem is at the carb or not. Still waiting to hear the results of that test...

 

Hey sorry Kentetsu, I did the run til sputters, then depress the clutch with no throttle for five seconds, and then resume throttle, but there was no real difference. what am i looking for specifically?

 

If there was no difference after you let off for a bit, then that would tell us that fuel delivery to the carb is not the issue. Rather, it would imply that the problem is the carb internals, probably just a clogged jet.

Search the term "jets wooden toothpick" and you'll find a thread detailing a simple way (relatively speaking) to remove the jets for inspection and cleaning. This might save you from having to actually disassemble the carb.

 

I bought the rebuild kit and will be under my hood replacing the clutch master and slave, so I'm gonna pull the carb too. Thanks kentetsu, I will keep everyone posted. Thanks everyone!

 

Ok, so i rebuilt the carburetor with a good kit and everything worked out well on reassembly. the car runs and idles smoother, but when i get into the secondaries, it still feels like i'm not getting enough fuel. Carb. rebuilt, fuel filter replaced. idle set at 800rpm and 1200 rpm with the same sputtering results. when i get into the secondaries the extra torque i should feel, is replaced by a lack of torque.

 

I think I would pull the fuel tank and take a look inside. With the fuel gauge issues you might have some junk in your tank. I had to replace the tank, pump, filter, all rubber lines and rebuild the carb before the high rpm issue was fixed on my car. I didn't replace the metal lines so I put a filter right before my carb to catch any junk that might be in them. My car runs perfect now though! Pulling the tank is really easy. I did it on my hour lunch break and still had time to eat a sandwich! I just pulled the screws by the filler neck, pulled the rubber lines under the car by the tank and the two bolts by the bumper for the tank straps. Plus there is a fuel drain plug on the bottom of the tank. I also cleaned up my fuel sender since it wasn't working either. Now works perfect!

Edit: also check your fuel level through the sight glasses on the carb. Should be right smack in the middle. That can cause issues as well.

Another edit: don't forget to unplug the wires going to the fuel gauge sender after you drop the tank a little.

 

Time to start in on the ignition system...

 

Just out of personal experience, I think he ought to atleast check out the tank. It still sounds to me like a fuel starvation issue. My car wouldn't even start for up to 10 minutes after the sputtering issue sometimes. After cleaning and or replacing the fuel system, all is good now. Checking into the ignition is a really good idea but I think I would finish checking out the fuel system first. Especially since he has an issue with the fuel gauge which leads me to believe the tank may be dirty.

 

Well, it's a lot easier to check over the ignition system than it is to pull the tank, which I why I suggested he rule that out first.

Also, the results of the test I asked him to run kinda rules out fuel starvation upstream from the carb. Otherwise, when he let off the throttle and coasted, the fuel system would've "caught up" with the demands of the motor, and when he hit the gas again he would've had good power for a minute until he ran out of fuel again.

Hope this makes sense.

 

so no one has commented anymore on maybe fuel pump issues? i should check to see if my coils are good? check to see if my timing is set?

 

If you want to test the fuel pump, you would need to get a high quality fuel pressure gauge. The lower quality ones aren't as accurate at that low of fuel pressure, from what I hear.

That would also rule out my theory of crap in the tank, if the fuel pressure stays steady.

 

When you rebuilt the carb, did you actually remove the 4 jets and inspect/clean them? This step wasn't mentioned in my carb rebuild kit, so I missed it myself the first time around. Had to pull them again, and found them clogged with crud...

Your problem is not the fuel pump...

 

+1

Mine were full of crap also. I thoroughly cleaned every aspect of mine. Took everything off, soaked, cleaned, blew out with air, then I soaked, cleaned........you get the idea. Point is, there are small passages that can and will get plugged that are really easy to over look.

 

everything that was removable in the carb. i took out and cleaned thoroughly. I spent about two and a half hours cleaning and rebuilding. how do i check my ignition system the way you guys are talking about? thanks again everyone!!

 

Ok. So apparently i didn't have the vacuum ignition advances hooked up on the distributor, and one of them was busted. it seemed hooking one up helped my sputters. Would this make sense?

 

Yes.

 

Vacuum leak, plus absence of vacuum advance? Possibly. Did that fix it?

 

Whole point of vacuum advance is to help (along with the centrifugal advance) adjust timing to account for RPM & load.

 

To this day I still haven't really messed around with vacuum advance. Probably because I never had a totally stock engine. lol

Hmm, I might play around with vacuum advance on the half BP. Any opinions on that? Sorry to thread jack. I'll ask in my half BP thread.

 

I have only hooked up one vacuum advance. where it was sputtering at 4500 rpm, now it sputters at 5500 rpm, the adjustable vacuum advance was busted so now I am replacing that and i will keep updating.