solid TRANNY mounts
04-18-04, 10:46 AM
#6
WingmaN
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That may hold true with a piston engine but it's not that harsh with a rotary. The entire rotating mass never travels outside of 6" from center and does not have a vilent change in direction as a piston on a connecting rod does.
The more radical the porting the more you feel it but that is to be expected. But it doesn't amplify the vibration to a intolerable level.
I will get some of the 100+ customers of mine that have actually installed them to post their experiences. Most are Ebay but there are plenty of forum members running them. Mostly 2nd genners but several 1st and 3rds now.
The more radical the porting the more you feel it but that is to be expected. But it doesn't amplify the vibration to a intolerable level.
I will get some of the 100+ customers of mine that have actually installed them to post their experiences. Most are Ebay but there are plenty of forum members running them. Mostly 2nd genners but several 1st and 3rds now.
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04-18-04, 11:18 AM
#9
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What the? A Scalliwag post in the 1stgen corner!
Question: What if you ran poly engine mount bushings and that most excellent tranny piece of yours?
And, of course, what is the $$$ of that tranny mount?
Question: What if you ran poly engine mount bushings and that most excellent tranny piece of yours?
And, of course, what is the $$$ of that tranny mount?
04-18-04, 11:54 AM
#10
WingmaN
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Hell Mario you know how much hell I have taken over 1st gen (or lack of) stuff 
So now that I have the vintage forum I am coming around 
The tranny mounts will work fine with any mount but the more solid the motor mounts the more effect they have.
The crossmember under the tranny still has rubber biscuits where it bolts to the subframe so you don't lose all flex, just most of it.
As long as you ran solid mounts you could pull those and shim the mount solid.
But if you did that without a solid mount and the motor twists under torque all that force would go on the two 8mm bolts with less than 5" between them. The leverage would be insane. Eventually it would break them or pull the threads out of the tail housing
The mount is $45.
So now that I have the vintage forum I am coming around The tranny mounts will work fine with any mount but the more solid the motor mounts the more effect they have.
The crossmember under the tranny still has rubber biscuits where it bolts to the subframe so you don't lose all flex, just most of it.
As long as you ran solid mounts you could pull those and shim the mount solid.
But if you did that without a solid mount and the motor twists under torque all that force would go on the two 8mm bolts with less than 5" between them. The leverage would be insane. Eventually it would break them or pull the threads out of the tail housing
The mount is $45.
04-18-04, 12:12 PM
#11
Originally posted by Scalliwag
That may hold true with a piston engine but it's not that harsh with a rotary. The entire rotating mass never travels outside of 6" from center and does not have a vilent change in direction as a piston on a connecting rod does.
The more radical the porting the more you feel it but that is to be expected. But it doesn't amplify the vibration to a intolerable level.
I will get some of the 100+ customers of mine that have actually installed them to post their experiences. Most are Ebay but there are plenty of forum members running them. Mostly 2nd genners but several 1st and 3rds now.
That may hold true with a piston engine but it's not that harsh with a rotary. The entire rotating mass never travels outside of 6" from center and does not have a vilent change in direction as a piston on a connecting rod does.
The more radical the porting the more you feel it but that is to be expected. But it doesn't amplify the vibration to a intolerable level.
I will get some of the 100+ customers of mine that have actually installed them to post their experiences. Most are Ebay but there are plenty of forum members running them. Mostly 2nd genners but several 1st and 3rds now.
Now I have other problems... I do like your semi solid idea that I read on the other board.
04-18-04, 01:12 PM
#12
WingmaN
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The motor definately needs to be running right. Usually someone with a liking for power likes to feel it and actually enjoy feeling their motor a little more. Plus the response when they get on it and better yet when the tranny doesn't rock back between shifts and cause you to miss gears they love that even more.
But I definately concede that if the motor is not running right it would probably add to the nuicance
But when it is running right....
The semi-solids are definately the best of both worlds and it is just a cost factor. The labor/equipment time is higher. The problem with the 1st gens is that the mount is not very tall. Trying to make a cushioning mechanism with so much less room to play with will be a challenge.
Right now I am doing the 3rd gen prototype. It looks wicked as hell.
But I definately concede that if the motor is not running right it would probably add to the nuicance
But when it is running right....
The semi-solids are definately the best of both worlds and it is just a cost factor. The labor/equipment time is higher. The problem with the 1st gens is that the mount is not very tall. Trying to make a cushioning mechanism with so much less room to play with will be a challenge.
Right now I am doing the 3rd gen prototype. It looks wicked as hell.
Last edited by Scalliwag; 04-18-04 at 01:17 PM.
04-20-04, 09:27 PM
#15
WingmaN
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As long as you have a jack and a set of jackstands they are easy. Some of the 13b's in the GSL-SE's are a little more pain but still easy. For those I take the bolts from the front cover and the bottom with the motor slightly jacked up and pull the whole bracket with the mounts.
It is easier than fighting the top two nuts in some cases.
When reinstalling you just drop the bolts from the top and tighten from the bottom.
To order my PayPal is mikeroberts@charter.net and just put in the order what you are wanting and that it is a non-Ebay auction.
It is easier than fighting the top two nuts in some cases.
When reinstalling you just drop the bolts from the top and tighten from the bottom.
To order my PayPal is mikeroberts@charter.net and just put in the order what you are wanting and that it is a non-Ebay auction.
04-21-04, 06:18 AM
#20
WingmaN
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I know a few people around here running them with healthy port jobs. BDC (Brian Cain), Tony Farkas, I can think of off hand that will tell you they make a difference but not a huge difference in feel.
You can already feel a bridgey pretty well with stock mounts. It is not as intensified as most people expect.
Some people just change the left side mount so the motor does not lift under torque expecting any vibration to be reduced. In theory at least at first glance that makes sense but whether that holds true is another story.
You can already feel a bridgey pretty well with stock mounts. It is not as intensified as most people expect.
Some people just change the left side mount so the motor does not lift under torque expecting any vibration to be reduced. In theory at least at first glance that makes sense but whether that holds true is another story.
04-21-04, 06:30 PM
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Originally posted by Scalliwag
To order my PayPal is mikeroberts@charter.net and just put in the order what you are wanting and that it is a non-Ebay auction.
To order my PayPal is mikeroberts@charter.net and just put in the order what you are wanting and that it is a non-Ebay auction.
