ok, first as you all know, im doing a 48dhla with a one piece, on a 84 12a

1. why is my cable like 8' to short? how do i fix?

2. how do you guys go about the wire harness, its strait in the way.

3. it looks like theres no room for the rb air can.

4. what do you do with the return line for the fuel?

5. i got rid of the chocke (broken anyway), and the cc, what the other cable other than throttle and can i get rid of it?

6. whats the other vac port on the mani supposed to hook up too?

 

bueller? bueller?

 

too short? Maybe you have a GSL-SE cable in there. for harness, you only need water temp, oil pressure and alternator wire (also the ones in the oil pan). Mark them and unplugg it from the main harness and unplugging the pins from plug. the alternator has 2 wires coming out from the large and small connectors.

You will need to cut all the "wye", "solder and use heat shrink to make a clean install.

 

1. That is the stock cable, and it is 8 inches too long. I would recommend leaving it the way it is. I went through a hassle lengthening mine.

2. I will get a picture of my cut harness in the morning for you. I also have a thread somewhere about depinning my harness, but I accidentally cut the alternator wire. You can follow that picture thread to the T if you want, but KEEP THE ALTERNATOR WIRE.

EDIT: Here is the link:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=harness

3. There was no room for my OER to have filters either. I ended up getting a sort of Pod Filters, one for each barrel. Looks like this:
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/airfilters.htm
Under the Weber DCOE section, go to the 7th row, on the left.

4. You can either cap the return (Deadheaded) or just run the return line back the way the stock nikki had. I would also recommend keeping the restrictor valve in place with new hoses.

5. You can get rid of everything but the throttle cable, for obvious reasons. I would hook a generic choke cable to the carb and mount the pull handle where the stock carb handle was in the dash.

6. One for the brake booster, like you have, and the other for the Rats Nest plumbing.

When I had the OER on that manifold, I also advanced the timing a few degrees (I believe 10) and left the vacuum nipples on the dizzy's dashpots open.

Hope this helps.

 

mine doesn't seem 8' long but 8' too short!, how would you go about that?

 

I've got a one piece manifold but with a 45 DCOE. I simply tucked the unused parts of the wiring harness with the solenoid connectors directly under the carb, all the things left that need to be hooked up still reach if you go underneath it. Cap off the return line to the fuel tank since you're dead-heading to the carb. I use one vac port on the back of the mani for the brake booster, the other is plugged. However I have seen some using the other one for the vac advance off the distributor (teed together). You will have to adjust the idle down for sure if you do that. Mani vac drops as the throttle opens but by then your mech advance is kicking in. Makes sense but I haven't tried that yet.

Does your mani also have 2 more ports on the engine side? Those are where you need to hook up the OMP lines.

I use a K&N filter kit and there is room for it.

Also with this setup you can do away with the sub-zero start assist, and the charcoal canister.

Your next mod really needs to be the exhaust, to take full advantage of the flow you can get through that carb. The stock exhaust is super restrictive. With the exhaust and carb (tuned properly) you will make 50% more hp than stock, enjoy!

 

Leave it. Trust me. Lengthening and shortening are almost the same thing. The hardest part is how to connect the cut cables together. You can try welding, but that hates any kind of lateral movement. I ended up using a set screw behind the dash on a custom cable I fabricated. One day I was driving around, and floored it, but I only got to about halfway through second before it came out and I returned to idle. Ended up setting my idle to 4000.... That was a fun ride home.

Cliffs: Don't worry, better safe than sorry.

 

You seem to have a good bit of slack in the sleeved part of the cable. Try flipping that bracket around the other way if you can and it should reach. I did not have to modify my cable, and even got the choke cable to reach.