fbse7en

Nice! Did you stick with the 2 barrel or switch out for the 4 barrel Sniper?

ChrisDugas

Has anyone figured out the optimum AFR's for each of the Ranges. I have an Exhaust temperature gauge, but have not installed it yet.! The combination of richer to cool and lean enough to hit near max power. The hotter the exhaust the hotter the combustion chamber and the hotter the engine runs. Cruising is 170 to 180 degrees F with where I am now.

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

Years ago I tried EGT to help tune a carb and found it to be almost useless, switched to wideband O2 sensor and found it to be MUCH better, and when I say much better, it worked for me when I got nowhere with the EGT.
2cents

ChrisDugas

Put a Sniper EFI on so I am great with getting a good AFR. My Problem is that I don't really know the best AFR to go for. Hoping the ETG will help me figure out the best AFR to keep the engine running well and cool as well. Have not tried it yet so still don't know if it is worth the effort. But thank you for the input.

I tried to tune a carb with a narrow band O2 sensor Totally useless.!!!!!!! My bad for being stupid, IE to anyone who ever reads this -----Wide Band is the only way to go for an accurate reading.!!!

It'syaboy

Thinking about throwing a sniper on my stock port S4 engine in my SE, also plan to do a 2.5" exhaust. Which sniper would y'all recommend?
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ChrisDugas

Either the 2 barrel(500 cfm) or the 4 barrel ( 800 cfm is more air than we can use. I added a Racebeat manifold which keeps the primaries and secondaries separate. And added a 4 hole spacer the keeps them separate. And went with the 4 barrel version. I have bought but not added the 40% secondary throttle delay. ( that allows to run on the primaries only and in a stock engine SHOULD give you a lower idle and stronger low end vacuum. Sound good in Theory. Don't know if it is true or not.. RAD had a 3500 rpm midrange issue with the two barrel version that turned out to be an ignition problem rather than a set up problem. The 2 barrel is a few hundred dollars cheaper than the 4 barrel version. So either one is a GREAT option. Watching the manifold vacuum even at 7 and 8 thousand rpm I get full vacuum with only about a 40% throttle opening. on a street ported 12A

ChrisDugas

I have run the wizard several times and started with 140 cu in, But the last one was at 100 cu in and is running better right off the bat. So 100 to 110 is a great starter point. I keep trimming the fuel enrichment for increased throttle. AFR keeps increasing to 10 to 1 so still too high. ( I increased the fuel enrichment for higher temperature but that kicks the unit out of learning mode. So that is not an option to use.) (Set up the Fan relays main power to 30, 87 to fan, 86 to keyed power, 85 TO SNIPER FAN CONNECTION )

It'syaboy

I installed my sniper and was able to get the car to run once, bit it was incredibly rich. What would you all recommend as starting setups for a stock 6 port?
Right now my settings are:
4 cyl80 engine displacement1100 target idleStock camCoil(-) since I'm using stock ignition

ChrisDugas

Redo Wizard 4 cyl try 120 to 140 cu in. Start with a higher idles and then lower it as it get up to 160 degree to be in the learning curve. like 1400 rpm. I like the 110 cu in on mine but I have a 12A You have a 13B so you have a bigger engine than I do.

How is the intake set up all ports open all the time. In stock set up all 4 barrels kick in right off of idle so the secondaries kick in way earlier than the original set up. They have a 40 % delay option on the secondaries available that may be of benefit ( about $10 I think). Double check for vacuum and exhaust system leaks. Hook tach to the trailing coil NOT the leading coil. Otherwise the tach reads double the real reading. so 1100 would only be 550. Push peddle down to 60+ TPS to shut down over rich start to shut down the starting enrichment. ( Starting Enrichment is adjustable on the hand held). Can chat more as you get it up to learning mode. What do you have the AFR's set to?

It'syaboy

I have the delay link installed from my old Holley so I had that turned on in the tuner. Also it sounds like I should just turn off the starting enrichment. I got mine to run on 100 for my first start but it was dumping out fuel like crazy. I actually got it to start and run on 80 I believe, but the car started to get hot so I couldn't keep it running for too long. Battery charged over night so I should be able to try again today.

fbse7en

Try inputting the engine as 160 cubic inches (for 13B)... CFM calculators only start making sense if you double the displacement for rotary engines...(and actually that's only assuming 85% efficiency with stock porting with bigger porting those numbers need to beef'd up).

It'syaboy

Got it to run under my previous settings and idle down to 12 tried to move it while it was still learning and lost it. I believe this is because I accidentally melted the O2 sensor connector on the exhaust. It's fixed but I'm worried that the connections aren't holding up to heat. Tim to call Holley 😢

ChrisDugas

What was your AFR readings and idle speed as well as your idle valve reading While running.?? The learning should help once you get it up to temperature.

It'syaboy

AFR was around 14 and IAC was at 2%
Got to drive it around the block once before it starting having issues again. Will start to idle funny and then die, then when trying to get it started again it will either start then immediately die or if I go wot it will start but the AFR will jump between rich and lean all crazy like if I keep giving it throttle and then it won't idle. If I let it cool off it starts fine again.

fbse7en

You really NEED to input it as 160 cu. in.

It only takes ONE rpm to complete a full 4 stroke cycle with EACH rotor with a rotary, its effectively moving twice the amount of air as a 4 stroke reciprosaur. 4 stroke piston engines need 2 rpms to complete ONE full 4 stroke cycle. It's the very reason rotaries are so powerful for their size.

It'syaboy

I guess I can try that, but at 120 it was flooding my engine out. I'm only at a stock port. My issues are probably due to fact that I messed up the O2 connector and the wires aren't properly insulated now, either that or my alternator (stock) isn't strong enough.

ChrisDugas

Don't know how bad the O2 sensor is screwed up, but that is a VERY key part of the entire system. I changed the limits of the correction from 50% to over a 100% and more the training speed up from the stock 3 to 5 to train faster for the first couple of runs. the dropped back down after a few miles. The engine sized does not seem to be super critical. Mine arrived at the right learn map faster at 110 instead of 140 cu in. One of my next play topics will be to reduce the enrichment factor for the over 50% TPS. Mine stumbles a little at full throttle at 3,00 rpm starting point ( AFR 10.2 ) and then levels out in very shortly. But that being said, I am amazed how well an 800 cfm EFI does on one of these baby engines.

It'syaboy

Got to drive the car around a little, but the fan clutch is bad so I can't go too far. Feels good up top but is breaking up down low and runs super rich over all. Need to figure out it how to get the delay link to work, as I feel like that's causing the low end stumble. Freaks out at idle sometimes too, but I feel like that's because it's still injecting fuel in the secondary.

ChrisDugas

Primary set up screen to see what I am interested in

Screen 3 to monitor fans

It'syaboy

How do y'all set up starting fuel, my car has to deflood everytime I let it sit. Starting enrichment is already turned off. Also, has anyone been successful with the delay link? I try turning the setting on in the menus but the car just won't run right with it.

ChrisDugas

Another option is the first 2.5 seconds primes the fuel pump. The next 2.5 second does the starting enrichment. Hitting the key to full starting before the enrichment may help. Or another thought is if you are not waiting the 5 seconds to start the engine means that you are not getting the starting enrichment. and pushing the peddle is giving an " accelerator pump shot" to start the engine. Mine starts faster with the 60 % TPS. Without doing that it hits the couple seconds of not running then starts for real and run great after that.

It'syaboy

So crank before the prime happens or 60% tps? I'll have to try that. Also found out that lowering the Secondary TPS setting with delay link activated really improved throttle response at idle. Still super rich everywhere else, but getting better.

It'syaboy

Re-did sniper @80cc and idle at 1500. Won't idle but drives pretty good. It will fall on its face and die when coasting to a stop, and will struggle to idle while sitting. Not perfect but getting there.

ChrisDugas

Burn the Global file to the Sd chip from the ECU. Put it in the computer and pull it up after downloading the Holley software. Go to the Idle setup and increase the ramp down to 8 sec or so and see if that helps you like it did mine. With the shorter time the engine stalled during the ramp down. With the longer delay the engine settle down smoothly before it dies.

It'syaboy

That was a world's of help! Got it to idle (1500) too. Just need to get it down to something a little more reasonable, I'd be happy with 12. Went for another spin tonight and the car feels great, definitely still figuring itself out. 100% needs and exhaust as it goes super rich for a sec right after off throttle.