J Oliver's rack conversion is half the price of the new box, for everyone's information. I started this thread two months ago and I still haven't gotten around to adjusting the slack out. I have been waiting for the results of J Oliver's rack conversion. I have to say it looks promising.

Toughguy

 

I myself would rather go with something that is made for the car it was designed for, If it wasa fuel pump or filter I realy would not care, but if something happens to my steering when I am going 90, I am F**ked.

 

To each his own but Chris and I have just finished the rack kit and it will be ready 4sale within a week. As for having somthing that was made for the car it was desinged for, what do you think this kit is? It is designed BY ME for the RX7 no other car, it wont work on another car cause it was made 4our RX7's. What mor can u ask 4? And as some one said earlier that a new box feels the same as rack n pinion, NO WAY, not even close. No more vauge steering at center, much more predicable turn-in, and the ratio is nowhere near the same MUCH quicker. All I can tell you is that it is a completley AWSOME feeling and I stand firm behind this product. I almost have tears of joy in my eyes eveytime I turn the steering wheel. Ok maybe thats a little much, but you get the idea. Right?

 

The point was your product is not designed by an enginer. anyone can throw something together like you did but how will it hold up over time? does the bolting to the subframe weaken it in any way? these are the kinda things I am talking about. nothing against your rack, but I like the original feel of the car, if I wanted power steering I would buy an SE.

 

HA TOO BAD Pittdp! It just so happens it was designed by an engineer, I have a degree in mechanical engineering and no anyone CAN'T just throw this thing together. Did you happen to wonder why it was taking some time to build and market this setup? Its because its not just thrown together. Oh ya the rack is NOT a power steering rack so now you dont have to worry about buying an SE.

 

As far as my car goes I'll be sticking with the factory steering box. Everything seems simple enough. My car is an SE but I have the p/s removed and replaced with the standard steering.

But just out of curiousity, what do you replace with this new system of yours.

 

I am sure you will sell a lot of them.

 

If anyone is interested I have found a vendor that is selling 3/4 drive 40mm socket for like $20.00. I have just bought me one. Email me is anyone wants the guys name and site.

 

Well I made the adjustments and it feels like all the play is gone. I also drilled the 4 holes out to 1/8 on the colapsable shaft and put in pop rivits. I am now just waiting to get my 40mm socket so I can do the same for the gearbox in my car to tighten it up a little more.
I took pics on what I did an posted it to my web page, I also edited a few things on bobrx7 write up on the procedure.
http://www.pittdp.homestead.com/Tech.html

 

Just be sure the pop rivets have adequate shear strength...

 

I used aluminum so that they will still break in a wreck, I HOPE!!! LOL

 

Hey Pittdp, very,very nice write up looks good.
Let it be known that I am impressed.
As for the collapse steering, back in 1981 a bodyman by the name of Earl Kingsley came up with the proceedure you speak of by drilling the 1/2 inch hole then drilling the 1/8 hole. I was his apprentice for 3yrs. and he came up with sooooo many tricks that I cant even begin to remember.

 

I thought I could get the restoration process completed today, but no!!! I have the 40mm, the 14mm and the lock nut all loose, but I can't find a tool to move the worm shaft adjuster plug. The directions say to use a 12 inch adjustable wrench, so I bought one, but it only opens so far - about 1/8 of an inch too little. I measured the shaft adjuster plug, and mine is 50mm - even the 15" adjustable won't open that far. This for an '85 GSL-SE w/ manual steering.

The adjuster plug seems really firm!! I can grab it with a groove pliers (plumbing pliers), and the it twists a very little, but the pliers chew at the metal so i stopped.

Anyone else have to really strain to turn the plug? What tools did you use?
Can I adjust either of the other settings to make it easier to adjust the worm shaft?

any recommendations? thanks

 

Don't mess with the worm screw at all. It does not work the way a normal steering box does.

Loosen the huge nut, then turn the inner nut that has the holes in it (I tightened mine about 1/8 of a turn. Then tighten everything back up and take it for a test run. I got lucky and nailed mine on the first try. All slop is gone now, and its been a few months since I did this. Good luck...

 

bump

no one has completed all the steps in the original writeup? Please, help me get past the huge work screw plug!

 

I didn't bother with the detailed adjustment due to the need to remove the steering gear box and special tools. I did more of a quick adjustment, but it seems to have worked perfectly. Here's the link to the post I made detailing how I did it. Once I ground down the socket and got the large nut loose, final adjustment took about two minutes. My steering is so nice now, it feels like a new car. This was a few months ago, and no change. Hope this helps someone else to get rid of that damned wonder steer.....

https://www.rx7club.com//showthread....grind+steering

 

I went out last night with the intent of getting this done. I settled on the idea that if the end of the steering column won't tighten, but will loosen, then it's already as tight as it needs to be. So I adjusted the large adjuster (the one with holes) and the screw inside the 14mm nut, and I now have a car that goes where/when I tell it. what an improvement!

 

Check my post in this thread https://www.rx7club.com//showthread....grind+steering for directions on the simplified method for adjusting the steering gear. All I can say is that it worked great for me and a few others that I know of.