Rotary Passion

I am a lucky SOB! My grandpa is giving me a 79 rx-7. New paint job and interior. Frame has 200,000 some miles on it, new engine has 60,000. Sound good?? it was a rebuilt engine, dont know how good. It has been sitting for about 2 years mostly inside a garage. We pull started it last year and drove it a little. Wondering what i need to check over because i will be driving it soon. Also it doesn't start right now (runs...but doesn't start) Turn the key and it makes one click from under the hood. I think its the Solenoid, Wires, or starter What u think??!!! Also the antenna is broken off and the right mirror as well where can i get parts?? The airpoump is disconnected and they said they could smell exhaust inside before when they where driving it (they got a corvette so...) they had pipes put on it. I think its just leaking. I heard the seals on the window or rear lights could also be letting it in. What u think???
thanks alot for any advice, opinons or Help


Arion
Mangio

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

well, replace the engine oil and coolant including t-stat, etc etc. change battery, clean terminals etc etc. install new plugs cap rtors.. something to start with.

exodus82

Check the brakes, and for any leaks.
as well as what wackyracer just said

RoTARY-ReX

I would check out the tires, change oil, coolant flush, rotor, plugs, new gas, battery, headlight fluid... Sounds like the starter may be out... Maby have it bench tested...

wwilliam54

dead battery is probly makeing it do that

SoRRoW

No one mentionedf GAS...

GAS does not work properly when it sits to long

pratch

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=1

That's for the antenna - instructions are also linked from that thread. I'd go junkyard for the mirror or else dealer/VB.

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

the fuel system/carb will probably need a full go through. chances are you will be fighting rust and gummed fuel. carb rebuild, if not needed now will be soon. fuel filter. new fuel pump. search under the 1st gen section with my name as i had a few threads on the fuel system and gas tank. i ended up rebuilding the carb, new hardline, new tank. also check the idler bushing by the exhaust manifold. mine was non existent. chances are, unless they've already replaced them, the shocks will be gone. also the tires are probably shot sitting that long. i'd go ahead and pour some mmo into the motor and let it sit while you are doing the rest. if it hasn't been done, get rid of the points dizzy and get an electric. should be a few writeups on that. good luck with the project.

Wankelguy

The starting problem sounds like a poor battery connection to the starter, either at the starter or the battery terminal itself. It's a really bad idea to disconnect the air pump if the thermal reactor is still being used as the air pump provides cooling air to the thermal reactor's inner chamber. If the thermal reactor gets too hot, the heat can wick back into the motor after it is shut off, and if one of the apex seals has "parked" itself in the exhaust port window, the heat can de-temper the apex seal spring. Two years isn't all that long to sit, my '80 sat in the desert for ten years. The main problems I had to deal with were all fuel system related. Good luck! -WG

Rotary Passion

Thanks for all the advice!! I talked to the guys at mazdatrix and they said if there was any water in the engine there could be pitting or rust. we ran it like 5 months ago...seemed to run fine...drove it up and down their drive, about a mile total, then parked it in the garage....ran there for about 5 minutes and then my grandpa messed with the choke and it died. im guessing it wasn't warmed up yet. Do you guys think the oil system is clogged up or something? also around the oil fill there is flaky like things on the inside, should i clean them out somehow or just know em in and let the oil filter handle it??

Rotary Passion

Looks like they had straight header put in it. There is a hole on the bottom of the air intake....what that for??

Rotary13B1

iTrader: (8)

That's right.. How can anyone forget the headlight fluid! I need to get some more on eBay soon. Makes the headlights work a lot better.

and what everyone else said above..change ALL fluids.. ALL of them! trannie, diff, gas, coolant, oil, brake, clutch, windshield washer fluid, rear windshield washer fluid, even headlight fluid.. cap.. rotor.. plugs..make sure the battery cables are good..make sure the brakes are good.YOU HAVE TO HAVE BRAKES!.no leaks in either master cylinders.. put air in your tires.. hehehe.. and let it warm up b4 you rip on it..

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

if its the stock nikki, you are probably refering to the large opening on the bottom of the aircleaner assemby were a flapper door lets in warmer exhaust air during cold temps. the flex pipe that went there is probably removed, especially if there are headers on the car.

Rotary Passion

What was the Air pump sapposedto do?? The way its sitting now is we have the tension taken off the airpump but the belt is still on. Can i remove the air pump? Does the air pump connect to the headers somehow? i called mazdatrix and they where talkin about some kind of valve. Also is there any upgrades to the engine other than porting and that stuff??

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

My rex has been sitting 4 years, I started the restoration last summer. Some things to consider are:

Empty the gas tank, there's a plug on the bottom (some models) that allows you to drain it like an oil pan. It can get pretty sludgy in there if it's let sit

Oil change. Pronto. Do it yourself, easy as hell, DON'T USE SYNTHETIC.. EVER.. It ***** with your engine, rotaries don't like syn because it doesn't mix with gas properly, and in our engine it's supposed to mix.

for starter, don't forget to check the fusible links on the strut post. Hell, check/change them anyway, it'll solve alot of small problem solving w/o alot of hassel. If you have a local place that specializes in rotaries, (like RX7 heaven here in Ottawa/Gloucester) they probably have a box of tested ones and will give you them for practically free

after the links, the battery and the starter are the places to check. Test or use a known battery (I used the one straight out of my day-to-day car) and if that doesn't work, the starter comes off easy, two bolts, you can use jumper cables to briefly touch the contacts and test if the starter spins. After that look to the ignition switch.

Definitely use a can of carb cleaner, or two. If it's stalling after playing with the clutch, there's probably more gunk in your carb than it knows what to do with. Mine was so gummed it didn't even work, we had to use a windex bottle full of gas to get the car to run (spraying into the carb)... if you can get it running, use carb cleaner to clean out the carb, and use it liberally.

Have the brakes checked. I know it sounds simple, but you don't wanna get on the road and have them fail now do you?

Get a Heynes manual if you don't already have one. Once you've done the basics to get it running, baby it for a bit, taking it for short, low intensity drives. Use the manual and your senses to check for any problems.

Air filter too, gas filter might be a good idea if it's been sitting a long time, and you've run the old gas through it. Hell, it's probably a good idea anyway since it's a 5$ part and a 10 min replacement job, and who knows the last time it was done?

Don't forget the rad fluid, tranny fluid, steering box, and rear axel too. Double check the belts to see if they're cracking, and replace them if they are.

All I can think of for now,

Dom

Did you wash it yet?

pratch

Click my sig and grab the rats nest removal. If you want to get away from the thermal reactor and go with a header, you'll want to kill your emissions.

You could get a 12a turbo kit, lightened rotors, lighter flywheel... But Basically I'd go with the exhaust replacement first (free exhaust/emissions removal is the root of all future power mods) since anything you do to the engine with the stock exhaust is like casting pearls to the swine. After the exhaust, that's when you can think about things like street/bridge/peripheral ports.