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Ok, so after sifting through 8 pages of threads related to first gen fuel tanks, I still have yet to find an answer as to what to do with the fuel vapor valve. To my understanding this was an emissions feature placed on Californian 7's. That being said, is this safe to cap off if the other 3 lines are hooked up as normal for the FB's, and/or does this hose (once attached to valve) just simply dangle off the front of the tank. Also, a port on the check and cut valve was capped on the SA tank (while the FB ccv was not)... Doesn't the check and cut valve ultimately do the job of the fuel vapor valve? Help me SA gods... you're my only hope..
I just did the exact same tank swap, left the vapor lock unattached. Seems to work just fine, I don't plan on putting the car upside down so all is good
I just did the exact same tank swap, left the vapor lock unattached. Seems to work just fine, I don't plan on putting the car upside down so all is good
Thank you for your reply! lol, yea not plannin on flippin her. 2nd Question, since the sa only has two connectors for the sending unit, how did you connect the two prongs/wires to the FB's three wires? Thanks again!
Man I shoulda taken more pictures when I put mine in or I could help you more.... As I am using an SA tank in my S3.
The SA tank is smaller physically so you are gonna need to put spacers on top of it so it won't rattle.
I have not much of any clue as for the routing of the hoses.... I have specific turbo fuel return requirements so I had to do some "custom" work.
I used the FB fuel level sending unit. It bolts right in and you won't have to figure out pins or resistance. It works as it should.
TY for your reply, and ya I was planning on using the FB sending unit.. but it after inspection..
Needless to say the inside of the FB tank was really really bad. Apparently sat for 2 years with a full tank that turned to varnish and rusted. A fellow rotor friend gave me an SA tank that is in pretty good shape.
the 2 wires match up with 2 of the 3 from the fb (1 black 1 yellow), to my understanding the third is just for the fuel light? Could someone confirm this? Thanks again guys!
You might want to confirm the resistance range of the SA vs FB sending units. I think they are different.
They might be. That's why I opted for reusing the FB sending unit. It seems to work fine; however the integrity of the top of my tank is sub-par at best. So I don't fill it up to the top, and I cannot confirm 100% accuracy.
OP: an easy way to test the sending units is to just plug them in and see if the fuel gauge moves.
I would assume the third wire is for the empty light.... which I abuse the hell out of
In short I'd try the FB unit first.... you never know it might work just look ugly. ANd hey, you're never gonna see it.
S1N - I admire and appreciate the research you put into solving problems. Many newer folks on the forum ask questions but don't do the due diligence to solve issue. Kudos.
Those ohm values aren't too far off. You could try adding a resistor in parallel to make the numbers a little closer. Full and Empty but 1/2 will be a little off.
Last edited by KansasCityREPU; 05-22-17 at 08:37 AM.
S1N - I admire and appreciate the research you put into solving problems. Many newer folks on the forum ask questions but don't do the due diligence to solve issue. Kudos.
Those ohm values aren't too far off. You could try adding a resistor in parallel to make the numbers a little closer. Full and Empty but 1/2 will be a little off.
Thank you for the kind words, new to all of this and you forum vets have provided SO much information throughout the years, i've spent hours reading yall's previous posts for information. Its nice to contribute to the plethora of info this forum provides, even if it is just a small amount.
Thank you for the info on the ohms too, im no electrician, so didnt know if it was that big of a difference. Off to go install the tank
Before you install the tank plug the fuel gauge in and manually move it up and down. Make sure the gauge works on the dash. If you need more resistance you can add some in the circuit.
When i put a GSLSE tank in my SA, i had to cut the spare tire well out to fit the (larger) tank which was meant for a car with a smaller spare tire well. You will have the opposite issue. Your tank will not have the spare tire well to press against. You will need to revolve that.
When i put a GSLSE tank in my SA, i had to cut the spare tire well out to fit the (larger) tank which was meant for a car with a smaller spare tire well. You will have the opposite issue. Your tank will not have the spare tire well to press against. You will need to revolve that.
The driver side is snug as a bug, but the passenger side is going to need some extra padding.
Originally Posted by Qingdao
Before you install the tank plug the fuel gauge in and manually move it up and down. Make sure the gauge works on the dash. If you need more resistance you can add some in the circuit.
That is a great idea. Wish I had done that before installing the tank.. ..because it seems the SA sender doesn't work Will deal with this once I can get her to idle. (she bucks with choke out, and dies when the choke disengages) Going to start a new thread. Thanks again for your help.
04-30-17, 03:27 PM
Doesn't the check and cut valve ultimately do the job of the fuel vapor valve? Help me SA gods... you're my only hope.. 
Will deal with this once I can get her to idle. (she bucks with choke out, and dies when the choke disengages) Going to start a new thread. Thanks again for your help.