Ahh - the politically popular flip-flop.

Shane- Will you be using the brand new museum piece 12A I saw over there last spring?

 

Hands down I say the 12A

 

well the 13b has 33% more power than the 12a dont it? but i would sure like to see a 12a, but i would also like to see what powah you could squeeze outta the 13b :P i like the sounds of the challenge of the 12a... ah crap i cant make my mind up lol

 

I think 680RWHP12A should buid the engine ! ! !

and double the projected output of the engine!





We ARE talking ULTIMATE, right?

 

Hmmmm...does ultimate here mean unstreetable as a daily driver...that would be a shame....is the 730 rwhp 12A a street engine, Robert?

 

it all depends on what your idea of streetable is.... do i drive my car on the street? hell yah!!!! does it have A/C? hell no!!!

my car was very undriveable for a while but with my new innovative boost controller, , i can adjust how fast the turbo comes on boost as per driving conditions //what tupe of tires (slicks or street tires)

 

Going to take some new shots of the SA today for the mag. I'll post some this weekend. I'll pinpoint the damage spots and we can all decide what steps to take.

B

 

What will you guys do with the car after its done? What kind of events?

 

The plan is to enter it in shows, drags and track events and see how it does. Of course, I'll probably just end up taking it out on the streets and torment all the ricers.
B

 

[QUOTE=drags and track events and see how it does. Of course, I'll probably just end up taking it out on the streets and torment all the ricers.
B[/QUOTE]


perfect!

 

Sounds like this car is what my car is/ is going to be. T2 suspension swap (front and rear) GTU widebody, 12a turbo w/stand alone.

12a BABY!!!

 

I vote for 12a =)

 

New images to discuss!


The body is pretty clean. What do you guys suggested for the crumple/cancer in the engine bay? New front clip or fab? There's only one bit of cancer on the rear deck. The missing body panels are in the car. Interior needs work. The dash will need to be replaced. The headliner is mint . Ideas?

EDIT: IMGSPOT isn't working for me. Gonna upload pix.

 

hmm. Images aren't loading for me. You?

 

No images are showing.

 

i know u dragrace...lets see those high 8 second timeslips

 

I may have some parts for you guys. Pics are fine, I see them.

 

I am drooling over the 12a already. I think it should be a total sleeper crappy paintjob and all then we can go show the fc and fd guys what a first gen is all about.

 

Oh, man that baby's had a rough life....this is going to be one involved project car story line...

 

Go with the 12a turbo. i can't wait for the story on this car. its exactly what i want to do with my first gen. minus about 50 horeses. i'm really looking forward to some pointers.

 

I think whether to repair or replace the front end depends on how extensive the damage is to the structure. I'd measure it and see if the frame is within spec or close to it and check for rust-through.

If the rust is worse than in the pics (if it has gotten into the structure), or if the frame is really tweaked, I'd replace the front clip. I'm suggesting that because with 400HP you want to make sure the frame can handle the power. An alternative to replacing the front clip with a donor is to fabricate something, naturally.

Definitely keep the black interior. Maybe a dark blue paint job would be nice.

 

Go with a 13bRE but while you're building the thing minaswell use 3mm seals.

 

Call me a turncoat, pole loaded first, chose 13b but now I really wanna see the 12a! For piant I'm thinking either a yellow (though that may be too bright) or a blue with the RXTuner logo in vinyl stretching from the bottom of the front wheels to the tail lights! Make it your flagship! This beast is going to be awsome! Keep the pop up head lights the same!

 

12a

 

rxse7en, I would cut that out with plasma torch and weld in clean rust free panels from a junker. Not worth a complete front end clip.

If you're not ready for that, soak all the rust in Rust Navel Jelly, the neon pink stuff from auto parts store. Then go over it with 4.5" grinder and knot wire wheel. Repeat as needed. Then you'll see what solid metal, if any, is left of those panels.

For the project I vote for a 12a J-bridge or 12a periperal port with a Gene Berg 54 IDA and 46mm chokes. Very Satisfied.