jr69187

ok i got the first sets of cages built. Will have pics tommorrow. they bolt in behind the seat and use u bolts to go around the so-called frame. the top bars bolt onto the cage and they bolt into the frame rail in just behind the tail lights. They are easy to install will be primered shipped ups in three parts. the full hoop, and the two back arms that bolt on easy to install and looks great wish i would have got pics but i am lazy and still working on the beast. will have pics tommorrow 250 each they are made of real roll cage pipe and fit perfect. first come first serve., eamil me at buyitrightnow@hotmail.com
peace i need sleep.

jr

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Sounds sweet! If they are still offered later I will get one. Too much othere stuff needs attention now though

Pedestrian X

pictures?

jr69187

coming tonight today snapped hot and i left the shop to wait on cooler temps.

jr

jr69187

this thing is giving me fits on uploading. this is the template i used for pics. The back bars are nto in the sliders i just stuck them into place so you can get the full idea. they actually slid into a larger peice of pipe and bolt to the hoop. all four points have thick steel plates so you can drill and mount to what ever you prefer or weld it right in. the hoop is narrow so it will be directly over the frame. also we will put the tangs on the hoop for a drivers 5 point. this one is not painted i grabbed it cause i was grubby and i hate to geat grease on a fresh primered one. any ways please let me knwo if your interested i have 6 right now.

jr

links for pics
http://www.torquecentral.com/attachm...&postid=138165
http://www.torquecentral.com/attachm...&postid=138166
http://www.torquecentral.com/attachm...&postid=138168

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

So now the seats are completely unable to move back or tily? Why the "X" pattern?

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that looks cool and all, but not very streetable without being able to move the seats...

~T.J.

jr69187

move seats? the seats can move all the way back. And for tilt depends where you keep your seat. As for why the x it is for extreme strength. just a bare hoop is not nearly as strong. I can shorten the back supports slightly and you could place it in the cargo box area and cut holes in it to fit around the pipe??

jr

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

I guess it wouldnt really matter too much for me since Im short and my seat isnt that far back, but my passengers need room, so can you get pictures more from the doorway with the seat as far back and reclined as possible? Maybe even get a picture of what it would look like moved back to the frame rail that runs under the storage bins with shorter rear supports?

Its not bad looking, Im just worried about it being streetable. The only other concern I have would be the X makes it nearly impossible to get to anything, storage bins included.

Maybe you should just go for the plain jane hoop with a harness bar instead for the street cars, and keep that design as a "race only" version? I know I personally would be more interested if it was just the hoop with a harness bar and rear supports.

Also, you said it was made from real roll bar tubing. Can you be a little more specific? What type of metal, wall thickness, diameter, whats it welded with, etc?

~T.J.

jr69187

i can get the pics tommorrow i have one with the interior ripped out that will work. Roll cage pip is steel 1 1/4 inch round and rated for roll cages i would have to ask the boss to get the thickness. i know this is strong cause we had one of cars we built get rolled and the cage was fine and it was on a big dirt track car driver was safe. it is mig welded mostly in some places may have used the stick depends on what the boss was using he actually can almost weld as good with a stick. i may be able to bend a plane jane hoop with the one cross bar tommorrow. and to add strenth above the one bar i could put a v up top. i really like to build these strong cause i would feel bad if something were to happen and they did not have enough strenth to do the job. if you want to see an extreme cage i can post some pics of the one in the v8 car it is a 14 point cage with full door bars i could roll that car 12 times and still be safe, as for bolting it i always would recoomend welding it in.

jr

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

This is EXACTLY what I want for the street. Notice how the harness bar is kinda bent to allow for more seat travel? Theyre made out of 1.750" × .120" DOM (drawn over mandrel) mild steel.

http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...ory_Code=AP591



~T.J.

jr69187

hmmm me and the boss will have to look at this i just wonder where the front braces mount to the fender wells??? and where do the back ones go?? me and the boss will come out and take a stab at simmialar design but to me that does not look to strong of a design. best question yet i want to see some one put that in there car. if i am looking at it right you would have to take the top off for it to fit. i don;t know the boss has to look at this we could build it but how to get it in there??

ok second look after a cigerette and we could do it would take a day or two to amke if you are serouis about it. i would like a deposit and i can do it for a 100 bucks less but the harness bar would not be removable. if your interested lettttttttt me know asap cause i want to get to cracking on this that pipe is thinner than what we use also shipping would be high on an item like that but if you want somehting like that we can build it for less.

jr

Tmann26

Looks good, $250 for the cage, how much would shipping cost from there to 81050?

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Well, I was just trying to point you more in the direction that I think people would be interested in. I dont have the money right now, but I will be buying one at some point.

~T.J.

Tmann26

Springfield isn't terribly far from where I'm at. Do you guy's do installs, and if you do, how long would the install process take? I'm guessing I could drive the 634 miles in a good 7-8 hours, and if the install is a snap, be back home before the day is up. Please let me know either here or via e-mail jtmann26@centurytel.net Thank you!

jr69187

install takes about 30 minutes and we weld it in which makes it the strongest it can be. The shop is actually in Weaubleau missouri. Not sure on shipping i have to check today. But i am splitting the shipping costs to help sell these.

jr

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Hoop is not wide enough. Should fit tight and have 4 bends in it to follow the shape of the "B" pillars. Change the "X" to just one diag. bar. starting at the top of the passenger side and head down to the drivers lower corner. Add a belt bar horizontal recessed back. The feet are to small for a bolt in cage. Rear down tubes need to tie in at the shock towers - Not the back of the car.

Just my 2 cents.

-billy

jr69187

i have bent like that only one problem try getting it in the car with out removing the seats and yes this one does have the smaller feet the other ones have 6 x6 squares that ones has 4 x 4 that one is meant to be welded in. recessed seat belt is soemthing we will take into an idea the one diagnal is a good idea. we wondered about doing the shock tower as ties in but decided to go full length. i am just trying to get a few of the x bars out of here cause we have a few bent then i will go back and design one for street these were meant for competition mainly the v8 guys.

jr

Rx7carl

Also, specs on the material? Looks like ERW which is no longer allowed by the SCCA, you may want to think this through a bit more. For a streetcar you can tie them to the fender wells like in TJ's pic (thats how autopower and Kirk both do it). But for a racer Billys right, the best place is over the rear spring perches, thats where all the stress is. And as far as having to remove the seats to install? Big whoop, 8 bolts, hell even TJ isint that lazy!

Tmann26

Weaubleau, that's even closer http://www.mapquest.com/directions/m...=&lr=2&x=0&y=0 586 miles and more of a straight shot. It may be a month or two, but I tell you what, I am 90% sure I will make the drive there to get em welded in. Could ya pm me a phone number to e-mail address so we may work out the details? Such as date, time, and all that.
John

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

You should think about the rear down tubes for a street roll "BAR". If you get hit in the rear with those things way in the back it will force the top of the hoop forward and could trap someone. There are no stresses past the rear shock towers like Carl stated.


-billy

Tmann26

If I get hit in the rear, that would only mean I wasn't going fast enough and I deserve to get trapped. :P

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ive been known to pull a seat out on the side of a road for a girl that dropped her Moms ring in my car and couldnt find it, so no, even IM not THAT lazy .

~T.J.

'85 GSL 302

A few things I noticed. It will indeed need to attach to the rear strut mounts. The point of a cage is to keep the drive safe and to attach the key points of the chasis. There is nothing in the trunk worth protecting, and nothing there to stiffin. You need to bring the "X" down to the strut mounts. Also, the hoop will have to be flush with the doors. If you get hit in the side the bar will offer no protection. All rules state the main hoop must be within a certain distance from the roof and side. That cage won't pass anything, nor will it do a great job of stiffining the chassis.

The ideal cage would have an "X" brace on the strut towers, and a main hoop that comes to the outside, and bolts to a set of subframe connectors under the car. You're off to a good start though, but you'll need a new design. My advice is to look at how alot of the racers do their cages and go from there. I personally will be on the list of V8 owners wanting a nice cage for my RX though so as soon as you get it all worked out you can count me in. Good luck.

jr69187

ok great keep coming with the ideas. we are preparing to build an ideal cage. a full width attaching to the strut bars. these were mainly meant for easy install and do offer some protection. we will be working on a prototype this week and i will try and take in all the ideas you have given me. but please keep them comming i will post pics on how the cages come along. at this time is there anyone with the money to buy one? The full cage in my v8 car is simmilar but with alot more it has full door bars and main hoop it is still in work. but please keep up the ideas the price will be about 250-300 and my email is jr69187@hotmail.com or buyitrightnow@hotmail.com second account works better less junk mail goes there. any ideas please keep posting if anyone has some artistic talent a drawing could help but the boss can more than likley make it all out like i said he has done things longer.

jr