64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Tonight I replaced the window seals and glass channel. I did some searching and couldn't find anything showing how to do it, and I posted in another thread (https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/has-anyone-replaced-glass-run-channels-468218/) asking how and got no reponses, so I decided to do a writeup. It's really quite easy. I did it with the window removed (I was in the process of restoring the regulators), but I don't think that would be necessary. These pictures are all on the passenger's side door.

First you pry one end out of the channel that holds them in place. I started with the outer seal.



Once it was completely removed I went to the inner seal.



Here is what it looks like after both are completely removed.


Here is what the end of the new outer seal looks like.


Now, you just insert the new seal into the channel. I started with the inner seal.



Then I inserted the outer seal. Just insert the tab into the channel at one end, then gradually force the next section in, keeping the outer and inner lips flat as you go.


And here's the finished product.


Rich

H4Inf

fantastic! nice writeup

Rxcalibur

Great write up with nice pictures. I'm going to be replacing those seals myself pretty soon. Is there any product out there that can be applied to the outer window seals to prevent them from drying out and becoming brittle, again, over time?

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

archive that bizatch!

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I think a little Armor All once or twice a year should help. And a garage
My '79 still has the originals, and they're in good shape. But it's always been garaged.

Rich

Rusty Shackleford

did you notice that on the front and rear most part of the outter seal dosnt sit flush with the channel??

mine has alittle opening on each end so rain could slip in there.... i have never noticed rain running in there..but im sure its possible if it isnt completly sealed..

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if we're talking about the same thing, but I did notice that at each end there is a pretty big angled gap between the outer end of the seal and the window frame. If the seals had been a little longer I could have trimmed the ends to conform to the proper angle to make up this gap, but they were the exact length.

That's why it's important to keep the drain holes in the bottom of the doors clear. Mine were pretty well stopped up. On the driver's side door, it was full of broken glass!

Rich

Rusty Shackleford

WoW came with mine...the passenger was fine but the driver was clogged so bad from just junk and broken glass....

even though the car has never been wrecked so that makes me wonder....

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

OK...I'm an old fart...what does WoW mean??

Are these the gaps you're talking about?

Rich

7aull

iTrader: (2)

64MGB-
Thanks! Pix and efforts appreciated! Looks like your door seals are next

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Stu - I did the door seal on the driver's side. Just took the old one off the passenger's side today and will put the new one on tomorrow.

Rich

ccauley

Did you buy from mazda or aftermarket? I will need to replace these soon after a new paint job but would rather buy aftermarket and save a bit.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Victoria British

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I got the window seals from Victoria British (about $15 each, so $60 to do both sides). I got the door sdeals from some place on eBay...I can find the name of the place later if you're interested.

Rich

drunkclever

nice wright up.. don't forget to touch up those rust spots

ccauley

Victoria British, I'll check them out and add them to my vendor list.


Thank you

ccauley

bites that victoria british does not have a full online catalog. I guess I will have to wait until they snail mail me one. They need to step it up a notch to take advantage of those impulse purchases. Like now.

Rxcalibur

Are these the door seals, that you were talking about, found on ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-85...spagenameZWDVW

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Yep, them's the ones!

Rich

Rxcalibur

$64 shipped sure beats VBs cost of about $97($39.95x2 + $17.25 for shipping) a pair. Are they easy to install? Wish I could find some new glass run channels for less than $40 a piece. I need those too.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

They're VERY easy to install. Although I couldn't get them to stay in the channels around the window frame (they are mounted with plastic clips the rest of the way around the door), so I had to use some adhesive. I hated to do that because they'll be a bitch the next time they need replacing, but hey, I'm 50...I may not be around then!

Rich

ourxseven

iTrader: (1)

Bringing this back for a question

I was having trouble getting my inner seal in and found this thread maybe to help. I must be dense but I thought the fuzzy curved seal was the inside one. In this thread it looks like the new seal rich installed on the outside was the fuzzy curved one, but yet the fuzzy curved one he took out looks like it came from the inside. I installed the straighter rubber one on the outside.

Anyone clear up this confusion I have?

7aull

iTrader: (2)

So we are talking the BOTTOM-of-the-window frame, inner & outer.
OUTTER has the wider "lip" that extends out over the exterior of the frame.
Look at the FIRST image up top of the thread - THAT is the OUTER- so match its profile to your new seal. The INNER one is "more" fuzzy than the outer, which has a smaller "fuzzy" section.
FWIW if you have the PNs
Outer:
8871-58-781
Inner:
8871-58-7_9_1 (I emphasis the '9') since that is the only diff in the PNs
Hope this helps!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

ourxseven

iTrader: (1)

Thanks stu, no longer fuzzy on this. I had it right, inner ones do seem harder to get in though

RxTex

iTrader: (4)

Has anyone else had "shrinkage" issues with outer door seals purchased from Victoria British??

I may be losing it, but I'm on my 2nd set in 2 years because about a year after installation they seem to have shrunk a good 2-3 inches!

Drove the 7 to dinner tonight, tempted to go take a phone pic for my argument