Replacing trans mount
#1
Too many vehicles
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Location: Kenosha, Wisconsin
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Replacing trans mount
According to searching threads, it looks like the tranny mount may be the cause of my vibration. Tranny and clutch professionally rebuilt/installed, fresh tune up good spark. Vibe can be detected in neutral sometimes, more at higher rpms, although at highway speed, if I put it in neutral, its gone. I can get it by revving the motor. Although 167,000 miles, motor has great power. I'll check exhaust mounts today for lack of rubber isolaters. Engine mounts seem very good as far as I can tell. It appears as though the tranny mount has been "reapired" at a point in the past-a rubber cushion has been replaced with solid metal washers. 1. Would this produce vibes that seem like they are from the engine? 2. Can the trans mount be replaced without removing the tranny, maybe by removing bolts and jacking up motor?
#2
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
to replace the trans mount, raise the vehicle and support the trans with a jack. remove the crossmember by removing the two 14mm outer bolts and the 14mm nuts that are attatched to the two studs protruding through the crossmember. those studs are connected to the trans mount. that should give you access to the trans mount. two 12mm bolts secure it to the trans. any metal in place of rubber will cause a vibration. th erubber acts as an insulator from noise and vibration. trans mounts are cheap enough and easy enough to replace, why suffer.
#3
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to replace the trans mount, raise the vehicle and support the trans with a jack. remove the crossmember by removing the two 14mm outer bolts and the 14mm nuts that are attatched to the two studs protruding through the crossmember. those studs are connected to the trans mount. that should give you access to the trans mount. two 12mm bolts secure it to the trans. any metal in place of rubber will cause a vibration. th erubber acts as an insulator from noise and vibration. trans mounts are cheap enough and easy enough to replace, why suffer.
#4
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its a super easy change on the SA's, FB is a little harder because of the heat sheild for the converter.
you can still change it without taking anything else off, its just tight.
1011-39-340A is the part #
you can still change it without taking anything else off, its just tight.
1011-39-340A is the part #
#6
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#7
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One of the bolts was above the heat shield. It was either try to remove the 23 year old bolts (not likely) or cut an access hole to reach it. Had to cut it back about 1 1/2 inch before I could get a socket on the bastard...
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