Removing inner door panels?
01-16-13, 02:36 AM
#1
Removing inner door panels?
Anyone done this? The inner door panel (not the card, the metal panel enclosing the window) seems to be completely pressed into/with the outer door panel.
I'd like to do some sound deadening in there, as the best way to get the luxury car feel is to do both the inside if the outer panel as well as the inner panel.
Any advice welcome!
I'd like to do some sound deadening in there, as the best way to get the luxury car feel is to do both the inside if the outer panel as well as the inner panel.
Any advice welcome!
01-16-13, 10:44 AM
#2
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the metal part IS the door, so its not a separate piece
01-17-13, 11:42 AM
#4
I did my doors a couple of years ago (SA no power windows). The product I used was MUCH thinner than the "standard" tar-based panels that are popular. Seems to work great. Need to cut pieces to fit, and this being self-adhering, that was a snap. I lined the INside of the outer panel, and the INside of the inner panel. Because this is a thin product, it did NOT interfere with door card re-install. I do recommend you replace the weather-proofing plastic sheet that covers the inner panel, prior to installing cards.
AND: my SA had rust forming at inner door BOTTOM seams, a well known rust area. I sanded, vacuumed then POR-15'd the inner seams prior to sealing it all up. Worth a look.
The product:
Vehicle Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction, and Thermal Insulation. Call 800 679-8511. | Second Skin Audio, Made in the USA.
They make a "door kit", which is great but -even better- ONE door kit did BOTH my SA doors.
Google it and see there are some comparisons to other insulator brands.
Stu Aull
80GS
ALASKA
AND: my SA had rust forming at inner door BOTTOM seams, a well known rust area. I sanded, vacuumed then POR-15'd the inner seams prior to sealing it all up. Worth a look.
The product:
Vehicle Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction, and Thermal Insulation. Call 800 679-8511. | Second Skin Audio, Made in the USA.
They make a "door kit", which is great but -even better- ONE door kit did BOTH my SA doors.
Google it and see there are some comparisons to other insulator brands.
Stu Aull
80GS
ALASKA
01-17-13, 12:18 PM
#5
How did you get it in between the panels, roll it up and finesse it through the holes in the inner panel and then unroll it? I've been trying to think of a way to accomplish this.
End result - you happy with it? Is your car much quieter now?
My buddy has suggested Raamat:
http://www.raamaudio.com/
My plastic weather proofing got removed, so ill have to go get some thick painters plastic and make a new one. Oh and remove a ton of glass shards down at the bottom - looks as though someone busted the window at some point
End result - you happy with it? Is your car much quieter now?
My buddy has suggested Raamat:
http://www.raamaudio.com/
My plastic weather proofing got removed, so ill have to go get some thick painters plastic and make a new one. Oh and remove a ton of glass shards down at the bottom - looks as though someone busted the window at some point
01-17-13, 03:25 PM
#6
I soundproofed as follows:
--Used RoadBlockR as an initial layer on the inner side of the exterior metal door panel. This butyl material serves to dampen vibrations of the panel, but is *not* intended to block sound. So...
--I used Quiet Barrier HD soundproofing material as a second layer to serve as a sound barrier. This is a closed-cell foam with a solid barrier layer bonded to it and is intended to actually prevent sound passing through.
In both cases, I cut the material into strips and placed them on the interior surface by reaching my arm through the available openings. Got a few scrapes in the process, but the results were very much worth it. Noise improvement was night and day difference.
I bought my stuff from Soundproofcow.com, and it wasn't cheap; but it worked quite well for me.
I used a similar application technique on the floor of the car, and underneath the storage bins.
In the cargo area, I used RoadBlockR against the metal surface, then a Quiet Barrier Specialty Composite (4-layers) layer cut to the shape of the cargo area, finally an Impact Barrier underlayment of soundproof cotten and a heavy barrier material, also cut to shape.
As you can see, I treated this as a significant investment in time and money, but the results were just what I was looking for.
--Used RoadBlockR as an initial layer on the inner side of the exterior metal door panel. This butyl material serves to dampen vibrations of the panel, but is *not* intended to block sound. So...
--I used Quiet Barrier HD soundproofing material as a second layer to serve as a sound barrier. This is a closed-cell foam with a solid barrier layer bonded to it and is intended to actually prevent sound passing through.
In both cases, I cut the material into strips and placed them on the interior surface by reaching my arm through the available openings. Got a few scrapes in the process, but the results were very much worth it. Noise improvement was night and day difference.
I bought my stuff from Soundproofcow.com, and it wasn't cheap; but it worked quite well for me.
I used a similar application technique on the floor of the car, and underneath the storage bins.
In the cargo area, I used RoadBlockR against the metal surface, then a Quiet Barrier Specialty Composite (4-layers) layer cut to the shape of the cargo area, finally an Impact Barrier underlayment of soundproof cotten and a heavy barrier material, also cut to shape.
As you can see, I treated this as a significant investment in time and money, but the results were just what I was looking for.
01-17-13, 05:34 PM
#7
I soundproofed as follows:
--Used RoadBlockR as an initial layer on the inner side of the exterior metal door panel. This butyl material serves to dampen vibrations of the panel, but is *not* intended to block sound. So...
--I used Quiet Barrier HD soundproofing material as a second layer to serve as a sound barrier. This is a closed-cell foam with a solid barrier layer bonded to it and is intended to actually prevent sound passing through.
In both cases, I cut the material into strips and placed them on the interior surface by reaching my arm through the available openings. Got a few scrapes in the process, but the results were very much worth it. Noise improvement was night and day difference.
I bought my stuff from Soundproofcow.com, and it wasn't cheap; but it worked quite well for me.
I used a similar application technique on the floor of the car, and underneath the storage bins.
In the cargo area, I used RoadBlockR against the metal surface, then a Quiet Barrier Specialty Composite (4-layers) layer cut to the shape of the cargo area, finally an Impact Barrier underlayment of soundproof cotten and a heavy barrier material, also cut to shape.
As you can see, I treated this as a significant investment in time and money, but the results were just what I was looking for.
--Used RoadBlockR as an initial layer on the inner side of the exterior metal door panel. This butyl material serves to dampen vibrations of the panel, but is *not* intended to block sound. So...
--I used Quiet Barrier HD soundproofing material as a second layer to serve as a sound barrier. This is a closed-cell foam with a solid barrier layer bonded to it and is intended to actually prevent sound passing through.
In both cases, I cut the material into strips and placed them on the interior surface by reaching my arm through the available openings. Got a few scrapes in the process, but the results were very much worth it. Noise improvement was night and day difference.
I bought my stuff from Soundproofcow.com, and it wasn't cheap; but it worked quite well for me.
I used a similar application technique on the floor of the car, and underneath the storage bins.
In the cargo area, I used RoadBlockR against the metal surface, then a Quiet Barrier Specialty Composite (4-layers) layer cut to the shape of the cargo area, finally an Impact Barrier underlayment of soundproof cotten and a heavy barrier material, also cut to shape.
As you can see, I treated this as a significant investment in time and money, but the results were just what I was looking for.
Wow - can you even hear the car running with that setup!?
Thanks for the info on how you got it installed - will take a look when i get home and scope this out. I'll probably start with the doors and front / rear quarter panels, do the floors a bit down the road.
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01-18-13, 03:41 PM
#10
The thing with most of the sound deadening (or deafening i like that!) is that they usually come in individual layers, but then claim you HAVE to use the other layers to get the full benefit.
IMO - if thats the case then make one dammed product and sell it to me. Jeez. Nickle and diming me here.
The Hushmat is more right up front, but is an all-in-one solution. $260 for the kit through Amazon, but honestly if that will do the whole car, thats a very reasonable price for return in my books.
i like that!) is that they usually come in individual layers, but then claim you HAVE to use the other layers to get the full benefit.IMO - if thats the case then make one dammed product and sell it to me. Jeez. Nickle and diming me here.
The Hushmat is more right up front, but is an all-in-one solution. $260 for the kit through Amazon, but honestly if that will do the whole car, thats a very reasonable price for return in my books.
01-19-13, 11:15 PM
#11
I did my doors a couple of years ago (SA no power windows). The product I used was MUCH thinner than the "standard" tar-based panels that are popular. Seems to work great. Need to cut pieces to fit, and this being self-adhering, that was a snap. I lined the INside of the outer panel, and the INside of the inner panel. Because this is a thin product, it did NOT interfere with door card re-install. I do recommend you replace the weather-proofing plastic sheet that covers the inner panel, prior to installing cards.
AND: my SA had rust forming at inner door BOTTOM seams, a well known rust area. I sanded, vacuumed then POR-15'd the inner seams prior to sealing it all up. Worth a look.
The product:
Vehicle Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction, and Thermal Insulation. Call 800 679-8511. | Second Skin Audio, Made in the USA.
They make a "door kit", which is great but -even better- ONE door kit did BOTH my SA doors.
Google it and see there are some comparisons to other insulator brands.
Stu Aull
80GS
ALASKA
AND: my SA had rust forming at inner door BOTTOM seams, a well known rust area. I sanded, vacuumed then POR-15'd the inner seams prior to sealing it all up. Worth a look.
The product:
Vehicle Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction, and Thermal Insulation. Call 800 679-8511. | Second Skin Audio, Made in the USA.
They make a "door kit", which is great but -even better- ONE door kit did BOTH my SA doors.
Google it and see there are some comparisons to other insulator brands.
Stu Aull
80GS
ALASKA
Found here at Damplifier Pro Door Kit
Thanks,
Austin
01-20-13, 02:23 AM
#12
Stu, did you use the Damplifier Pro 13sq. feet - Door Pack listed for $76.94?
Found here at Damplifier Pro Door Kit
Thanks,
Austin
Found here at Damplifier Pro Door Kit
Thanks,
Austin
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
