redrill front h7bs from 4x110 to 4x114.3
10-03-13, 03:32 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
redrill front h7bs from 4x110 to 4x114.3
I know its been talked about, but does any body know exactly what size to drill them? I got a guy that works in a machine shop that will do it but need to know exact measurements so I can install studs in the hubs.
10-04-13, 08:07 PM
#6
I would buy the studs first so you can match the stud size. Here are the factory studs.
Wheel Studs, Lug Nuts, Spacers, Valve Stem Caps, Wheel Locks
Wheel Studs, Lug Nuts, Spacers, Valve Stem Caps, Wheel Locks
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10-05-13, 05:06 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
We will see how it works out, im jus tired of looking for gslse hubs for my gs. I already have the gslse rear end, I just need the gslse front hubs. Its a beeotch trying to find parts for these cars. So im just going to have my 4x110 hubs drilled to 4x114.3
10-05-13, 08:11 PM
#9
GSL-SE rotors are $25 ea on Rock Auto. The hub and rotor are integral on all 1st gens. Going this route you need 84-85 front struts/spindles, and gsl-se brake calipers/brackets.
If you get your GS rotors drilled to 4x114.3 you will have to get your next set of rotors drilled when the 1st ones wear out.
If you get your GS rotors drilled to 4x114.3 you will have to get your next set of rotors drilled when the 1st ones wear out.
10-05-13, 08:19 PM
#10
also the GS hubs have a different offset than the SE hubs, so if you drill the GS hubs your track will be more narrow in the front than the rear, may look odd, idk. It also may cause SE wheels to rub the spring seat.
You should be able to find the parts you need in the classifieds, I recently changed everything over and I had no problems getting what I needed.
You should be able to find the parts you need in the classifieds, I recently changed everything over and I had no problems getting what I needed.
10-05-13, 09:11 PM
#11
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i looked at 12A rotors to redrill em, and for some reason i want to say you can't, or shouldn't.
i think the casting is thinner where there aren't wheel bolts, so when you redrill you get less meat for the fastener to go into, or something like this, which is bad, especially if you have big sticky tires
i think the casting is thinner where there aren't wheel bolts, so when you redrill you get less meat for the fastener to go into, or something like this, which is bad, especially if you have big sticky tires
10-06-13, 08:13 AM
#12
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I recently acquired all the parts that I needed to switch my gsl over to gslse by looking in the classifieds on this forum for people parting out and also these guys. coveyautoparts.com. They specialize in used mazda parts.
11-13-13, 11:36 AM
#15
Not enough meat in the 12A 110mm rotor to do this safely. I looked at this allot over the years. Actiually I wanted to move from 110mm to 100mm but had the same issue - nothing to drill.
The only real soultion that I came with was to use adapter hubs OR install GSL/SE rotor/brakes etc on the front. The adapter hubs are 1" thick so finding wheels with enough offset can be a challenge. Also I think adapter hubs are not a gread way to change lug patterns. So, I concluded installing the GSL/SE stuff is a MUCH better solution because you will be using stock parts that you can get from any auto parts store when repairs are needed
The only real soultion that I came with was to use adapter hubs OR install GSL/SE rotor/brakes etc on the front. The adapter hubs are 1" thick so finding wheels with enough offset can be a challenge. Also I think adapter hubs are not a gread way to change lug patterns. So, I concluded installing the GSL/SE stuff is a MUCH better solution because you will be using stock parts that you can get from any auto parts store when repairs are needed
11-13-13, 11:42 AM
#16
"What about 84 and 85? Does that need a spacer too?"
Yes, it would.
All the 114.3 bolt pattern cars (GSL-SE) have a wider suspension "track". That is to say, the hubs sit further outboard than the 4 x 110 cars, so to use an SE appropriate wheel you would need a spacer. You may be able to find an aftermarket wheel with a offset that would work, but I think that j9fd3s raises a very important issue that makes it not workable.
Yes, it would.
All the 114.3 bolt pattern cars (GSL-SE) have a wider suspension "track". That is to say, the hubs sit further outboard than the 4 x 110 cars, so to use an SE appropriate wheel you would need a spacer. You may be able to find an aftermarket wheel with a offset that would work, but I think that j9fd3s raises a very important issue that makes it not workable.
11-13-13, 03:58 PM
#17
Try these guys. They have some cool stuff. They are in Australia, but I'm sure they can ship.
MSF Racing Components
I have also been reading here that the early-mid 80's skyline struts/brakes/etc are essentially a direct bolt-in. I realize skylines weren't imported as such then, but I think the early Maxima might have the same stuff.
Here is some other suspension stuff I found (not related to this thread) that might help fill the gap that Re-Speed left.
https://technotoytuning.com/mazda/fb
Carl
MSF Racing Components
I have also been reading here that the early-mid 80's skyline struts/brakes/etc are essentially a direct bolt-in. I realize skylines weren't imported as such then, but I think the early Maxima might have the same stuff.
Here is some other suspension stuff I found (not related to this thread) that might help fill the gap that Re-Speed left.
https://technotoytuning.com/mazda/fb
Carl
