rebuilt nikki help
rebuilt nikki help
i just rebuilt the carb on an 82 and while the car is running fuel just pours in from the secondaries while at idle makeing it flood any ideas i ajusted the floats just like the diaghram said im just stummped
Don't see you around here anymore Sterling. Glad to see that you are still doing your carb work.
Currently Rotarded
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 203
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From: Las Vegas, NV
It's on the driver's side of the carb by the inlet/return lines. It is a connector by the alternator.
I am experiencing the same symptoms as you. Just got new floats with facotry settings and brand new seats and needle valves. Doesn't matter...didn't work anywyas...
Not tryin to hijack just sayin that you may be in for more than you bargained.
GL
I am experiencing the same symptoms as you. Just got new floats with facotry settings and brand new seats and needle valves. Doesn't matter...didn't work anywyas...
Not tryin to hijack just sayin that you may be in for more than you bargained.
GL
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Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
...From another current thread:
The vent solenoid is just one of those things that people often overlook that will cause outrageous, inconsistent flooding.
It is very often the case on a freshly rebuilt carburetor that the needles don't perfectly seat themselves, thus blocking off the fuel. A simple couple of taps directly over the offending side will usually remedy the problem, so long as there is fuel in the bowl sufficient enough to push up the float (...and since this is a flooding problem, you more than likely have far too much).
You may have to do this several times at first. This is due, I believe, to the friction from the microscopically matte finish that is on the corners of the brass needle shafts rubbing against tiny, almost microscopic concentric circles that are inside the seat as a result of machining them.
I polish the sets I use for racing carbs, and for street carbs & rebuilds I simply work the needles back and forth in the seats before I complete assembly. This is just to avoid the problem of flooding during initial installation. But once the carb is on, there's no sense in removing it to go through all that. This, if it is the problem, will work itself out quite quickly the more the fuel level changes in the bowl.
Fuel level should exactly half way in the sight glass. If it is too high the fuel will not aerate from the emulsion system, and you will run rich. Too low, and the signal that draws the fuel into the boosters will be bled off, and you'll suffer from crappy low end, and then a very lean mixture up top.
Float levels are nothing to mess with. Set 'em & forget 'em.
Originally Posted by me
Make sure your float bowl solenoid is hooked up. If it's not, the fuel won't be able to come up through the emulsion tubes easily. If it does, it will begin to siphon out and flood the carburetor. The float bowl vent solenoid has a single black and white wire coming from it. It's located front, center, and top, in the air horn. This needs to be hooked up to an ignition-switched 12v POSITIVE lead. BE CAREFUL, DAMNIT!
If you make a cute little spark next to the flooded carb spewing fuel vapors, you could be in for a surprise. 1 in a million chance, I know, but a burned face isn't worth it.
If you make a cute little spark next to the flooded carb spewing fuel vapors, you could be in for a surprise. 1 in a million chance, I know, but a burned face isn't worth it.
It is very often the case on a freshly rebuilt carburetor that the needles don't perfectly seat themselves, thus blocking off the fuel. A simple couple of taps directly over the offending side will usually remedy the problem, so long as there is fuel in the bowl sufficient enough to push up the float (...and since this is a flooding problem, you more than likely have far too much).
You may have to do this several times at first. This is due, I believe, to the friction from the microscopically matte finish that is on the corners of the brass needle shafts rubbing against tiny, almost microscopic concentric circles that are inside the seat as a result of machining them.
I polish the sets I use for racing carbs, and for street carbs & rebuilds I simply work the needles back and forth in the seats before I complete assembly. This is just to avoid the problem of flooding during initial installation. But once the carb is on, there's no sense in removing it to go through all that. This, if it is the problem, will work itself out quite quickly the more the fuel level changes in the bowl.
Fuel level should exactly half way in the sight glass. If it is too high the fuel will not aerate from the emulsion system, and you will run rich. Too low, and the signal that draws the fuel into the boosters will be bled off, and you'll suffer from crappy low end, and then a very lean mixture up top.
Float levels are nothing to mess with. Set 'em & forget 'em.
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
That's the "sub-zero assist" check valve. Just leave it. It has a check ball and baffle inside it, but it wouldn't cause a vacuum leak even if you removed it completely because the circuit terminates at the back end of the accelerator pump nozzle set.
The large nipple on the left of the bung where the vent solenoid screws into is for your PCV. It should go to a tee that hooks up with your oil filler and your charcoal canister.
The large nipple on the left of the bung where the vent solenoid screws into is for your PCV. It should go to a tee that hooks up with your oil filler and your charcoal canister.
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