jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

So back to the my car hates me BS. here's the stats my car is an 83 GS I just rebuilt and striped a carb from an 81. first my throttle was only working half way then sticking, so I pushed it hard and it jammed WOT. Got it fixed drove home and noticed some sparks flying as I was getting back into my neighborhood. soon as I parked the car I saw smoke coming from the engine bay so I popped the hood only to see flames. Luckily it was my sub zero start hose and I just yanked it out before my hole car went up in flames. why did this happen??? also when I first put the carb in it started fine. now it takes forever. this all happened in about an hour time. Its dark now so I cant see if the fire caused any more damage. I'll post pics tomorrow.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

So it wasn't the sub zero start assist. it was the vac line on my fast idle (I think thats what it is) the part is right above the sub zero reservoir with the cable that goes onto the carb linkage. burnt some wires also. but thats an easy fix. any Ideas on how this happened. also If I let it sit for awhile it will start but if i turn it off........ no go. So I think it may be flooding. I'm a carb rook but I think I put it all together right. when it does run it sounds good. better than it ever has. smooth idle. the starting issues is probably just tuning. the sticking linkage is because not all the cables matched up to the new carb and theres a part hanging and binding. I'm just curious about the fire.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

I'm not sure from your discription but I suspect that's actually your cruise control servo, since the "fast idle" is basically just a cam on the carburetor.

Please don't take this wrong, but you might want to get ahold of some of the reference documents like the FSM, and study them a bit, before you seriously damage yourself, or your car, or somebody else, by doing something that will lead to a serious fire or a crash - - like trying to force a sticky throttle with the engine running instead of finding and fixing the cause.

No safety net on these cars; there's no "creep mode" or rev-limiters other built-in protections if things are screwed up, like there are on more modern designs. They are quite capable of catastrophic failure.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

yeah. I was just in a hurry. I had to go pick up my gf. I turned the ignition off soon as the throttle stuck. and I caught the fire quick enough that damage was minimal. Also this all happened on a country road where I do all my tuning far away from city streets.

so if its my cruse (witch didn't work anyway) where does the vac line plug into. I do have the FSM downloaded. but I find those really hard to understand. just to be clear its the part on the top passenger side of the firewall. has a vac line and a throttle cable. I'll be back in a few with some pics.

well I'm gonna go figure this out.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

Ok so figured out the fire issue. had a small gas leak on one corner. torqued it down and all is good. but my starting issues are now the problem that needs to be fixed. when the car is off I'm not getting any fuel. its not dripping or anything when peddle is depressed. once I get the car started (by pouring gas down the carb) it stays started. runs good except that I cant seem to get the Idle below 3 grand. But I think I know what that is. I just want to know whats up with no fuel.

so a recap
fuel pump is good
runs good once started
no fuel squirt when not started.

Accel Pump seems to work when the car is on.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

no love huh? Well car is still having issues. I've fixed the linkage, found the fuel leak. still having issues. I had put my old carb back on the rear rotors float bowl is full running way too rich and like poo. still having no start issues. I tryed swaping parts from both carbs to fix one still no luck. its getting fuel to the carb, the carb is not giving fuel to the engine. can someone please help...

'87 turbo II

iTrader: (1)

Idling high could mean a vacuum leak and it would explain the difficulty starting. Have you looked to see if the fire burned any vacuum hoses or caps off of where they are supposed to go?

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

It burned the vacuum line off the cruise control but I cant find any vacuum leaks. I have started removing the emmitons havent finished yet. rats nest is out, Oil vent is hooked up, fuel vent is hooked up all the extra holes on the carb spacer are pluged, Shutter valve is hooked up. Smog pump is still in as is the aab valve. where else are there vac lines but the rats nest and carb + spacer? I do hear a wistle so I'm conviced there is one. I also hear a noise when I accelerate. witch is the only time it runs good. I do think I have a vac leak but I cant find it. I need to at least get it started so I can make an 2 hour trip to get a holly and manifold. I think that will fix the issue. I'm not getting any fuel into the engine. I don't get a squirt when the peddle is depressed. the floats are full of gas, I've checked fuel pump and its good.

on the bright side I can remove the carb in less than 10 minutes with a normal 12mm box wrench.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Have you checked the hose that connects the vacuum line for your brake booster? Quite possible that the fire breached it. they also go bad from exhaust heat quite frequently.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

thats somthing to look into. I think it works though. breaks suck when the car is off and work well when running. I know this because I was trying to compression start the car backing down my driveway. I do need some sort of heat shield for my header.

'87 turbo II

iTrader: (1)

hmmm... I doubt this is the case but I'll make sure. The blocked vacuum lines aren't blocked with bolts and screws are they? Sterling's site says that this does allow a little air into the system which is unnoticeable, but multiple cheap plugs like this and it can add up to a serious leak. I suggest proper rubber vacuum caps if you don't already have them. I use proper caps for everything, however I am running a Dellorto side draft carburetor and have yet to work on my cousin's nikki much so I can't say I know a lot about them, but I think we've narrowed it down to a vac leak, now we just need to source it. Have you checked the "troubleshooting" section on Sterling's site yet? I am not 100% sure but I think there is a checklist of common vacuum leak sources typed up somewhere on either this site, or Sterling's, starting with the easiest components to check. It might be worth your time checking it out. Good luck man.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

no every thing is capped propper. i did study sterlings site before. never saw a vac check list any one have a link? i'm pretty sure its a fuel isse as well. It will start if i dump fuel down the carb, but won't stay started if I let off the gas. and the last I had it started I was still on the gas and all the lights came on like it was off but key was in the on posstion. it was still running. but I turned if off and came inside after that. I lost my towllie powers .

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

good call on the break booster. found the leak. but carb still having issues. its the accelerator pump. there's a clog in the main body. took it to RW-7 to re rebuild it, and he couldn't get it to work either. but He did find the problem. we cant get the clog out. he tried carb cleaner, trying to push a wire through, compressed air. any other Ideas? its really blocked good. its in the main body itself not the jets, or small parts. He worked on this thing all day.

also the idiot lights were on because the belt slipped off the alt. Its been flipping backwards I keep on trying to fix it but just goes back. Its misaligned a hair.

Sterling

The checkball is probably stuck under the AP nozzle. This very common. To verify, operate the throttle linkage by hand while watching the nozzle.
To attempt to fix it with the carb still on the car:

• Get the engine warmed up real well.
• Remove the air horn.
• Remove the brass banjo screw & AP nozzle. Inside, there is a brass weight over top a steel check ball.
• IMPORTANT!: Do NOT operate the throttle while the AP nozzle is off! The weight & ball can be pumped out and end up in the engine!
• IMPORTANT!: Spray carb cleaner into a container such as the can cap, and drip it into the AP circuit. DO NOT spray it into the circuit! The weight will go flying and you'll lose it.
• Let it sit for a few hours.
• Get a nail punch, and LIGHTLY tap the top of the brass weight. You don't want to dent or deform the brass, but the idea is to give a bit of a shock to the steel check ball underneath.
• Reassemble the AP nozzle with the gasket, nozzle, aluminum washer and brass banjo screw. No need to go bat-**** tightening it.
• Operate the throttle linkage by hand while watching the nozzle.
  Repeat if necessary. You might do this 3 times, but eventually, it should work. This is basically how I remove them in my shop. I have only once had the check ball behind the pump get stuck, and that carb sat in water. But I've had dozens that have had the ball under the nozzle stuck.
  The diaphragm in the AP housing could be old like shoe leather, but it is still able to pump something. If they get so bad that they lose flexibility completely, they'll crack and you'd have a fuel leak out of the AP housing cover.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

that carb actually didn't even have the check ball and weight. we pulled one out of my parts carb. I beleve he already tryed the steps you said multiple times. any other Ideas? He thinks the blockage is inside the carbs body. we removed wieght and ball and tryed spraying through the holes to clear it out. also tryed compressed air. I'm not trying to undermind you I know your the man as far as nikki's go. also we can't even get it started now. I'll give Robert a call and see if anythings changed.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Try chasing the hole with a soft, pointed copper wire?

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

I think he's got it solved. he got another carb that ran good to steal the body. Hopfully the seven is back in action today.

RW-7

iTrader: (56)

Update: Jinxed's car is back in action. I saw some major build up in the jets and emultion tubes. Looked like a crystaley substance. I'm sure from the ethanol in the fuel we get these days.
Sterling I had checked all the check ***** and weights. When I first got the carby they were missing. I replaced them with some spares I had. After going over and over several times I could not get the carby to work properly. After swapping out the main bodies and a thorough cleaning and rebuild of the new main body, everything was working fine.

My question for you all is this. Has anyonr else had problems with etanol buildup in there carbys? If so what do you do to prevent it? Additive? Not let your fuel level go down past 1/4 tank? I have had problems with buildup in my Fuel injected car as well.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

Yes, cars running great once again. better than it ever has in fact. Much more responsive. took some getting use to shifting 3rd. first 3 times I shifted 2end to 3rd it barked the tires. non intentional. now I just need a lsd so its not so lame. car still hates me though with the thermostat going out. Its always something.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Be reasonable: if the car had set you on fire, discovered your ***** were missing, and then called you lame, I'd bet you'd hold a grudge, too... heheh.

Congrats on getting her going!

AcidAngel7477

iTrader: (16)

yeah good job man.

:AA:

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

well. to be honest it was robert (RW-7) who got her back on the road. but I've put a fair amount of work in fixing her. She shure does like to break down. I didn't mean to catch it on fire I did put it out promptly, and I wasn't calling her lame just the 1 wheel peel 1 tire fire open diff lame. I just think it hates my GF, and loves money being spent on her. Today my yahoo belt got the fury of her. she just ate it up. didn't last 24 hours. Looks like I'll be heading back out to pineapple racing tomarrow. rob golden said if i had any issues with it they'd replace it. at least the alt belt is staying put for now.

But thanks to Robert I've learned a few things about carbs. Still a carb noob, but I'll be studying so I don't have to pay again. Sorry robert. but I'd rather have the satisfation of getting it done myself. But I'm sure I'll be buying some parts such as the 4.77 GSL rear end when you build it. Just let me know how much you want for it so I can put some money aside. After that I'll be untouchable. Also how much for the FC tranny? I'll just talk to you when I come back out there in a few weeks.

Sterling

Like any good mistress. BUT- she's got to put out for ya!

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

Well I think the last 6 months of ownership was forplay. I'm pretty sure I've got laid now.

RW-7

iTrader: (56)

You are welcome Joel. I'm glad I could get it goin for ya! You have my number call me anytime if you have questions.