yes i searched but everyone said something differnet.
anyways i have a 85 gs with drum brakes, i have a 85 gsl parts car with lsd and disks, i am going to swap them out. what has to be done?? break lines,e brake, master clyinder? need some help

 

all you have 2 do is take out the gs and put in the gsl i am doing the same thing this weekend since i just got my springs and struts your e brake will be different but the gsl setup can still be utilized on our gs as for the brakes the feed line to the axle just that feeds the drums just stays there and will i think will connect with the gsl brake lines. anyway let me know how it goes. good luck it should be easier than you think.

 

you need the GSL ebreak cables. Everything else should swap easy.

Some people say you should change the MC and Prop valve but others did not change them and say there are no problems.

 

i dont know about the gsl, but when i put the gslse rear end in my car, i had to get a new rubber brake line going from the body to the axle. they were different.

 

this is true with the brake line to an se but not to a gsl at least 85 gs 2 85 gsl same applies 2 84 gs 2 84gsl and 84gs 2 85 gsl u get my point i did a little homework about this b4 i bought my gsl *** goodies i also want 2 put the se 3rd member in the gsl seeing how i hav e acces to 1.

 

thanks boys

 

Well, is the rear end of the driveshaft the same? I'm not sure, I think there is a difference if you have the series 1 SA car and want to do the swap.

 

everything will be fine for you since you have 85 with 85

 

HERES THE WRITE UP !

TOOLS:

21mm open heads
21mm sockets 1/2 make your life easy
17mm open
17mm sockets
10mm GOOD ONE dont wanna stripp the brake line
adjustable wrench up it 1in +
needle noses
vise grips (small)
pb plaster

REMOVAL-

1. Place jack stands under the lower control arm where it connects to the chasis, yeah right there where there are the three holes...

2. loosen all the bolts first - 21mm & 17mm

3. remove the brake cables, remove them from the cotter pin first not from the caliper, this is where you might need the PB Blaster. - needle noses to remove the cotter pin

4. remove the hard brake line from the diff (this is where you use a GOOD 10mm so you dont strip it.

5. Place the floor jack under the diff, jack it up till there not too much tension on the loose bolts.

6. remove all the bolts, then move the watts link bracket
off the pin on the diff, it will be eaiser when you drop it.

7. clear the upper, lower,control arms, shocks, then lower the jack slowly keeping sure that nothing is still attached, also make sure all upper, lower,control arms, shocks are out of the way.

hope i didn't leave anything out

INSTALL-

1. REMEMBER ONE SIDE BRAKE CABLE IS LONGER THAN THE OTHER ! !

2. Install the E-brake cables first. Install them @ the cotter pin location first, TRUST ME

3 . Jack the new diff up and line up the watts bracket on the pin first.

4. Then line everything up first by putting all the bolts back but, DO NOT TIGHTEN ! ! Make sure you get all the upper, LOWER, and shocks lined up.

5. connect the hard lines for the brake

6. now your ready for the e-brake cables...you might to loosen the cable from inside using a flat head or a 10mm DEEP. You will struggle with it. Use a big flat head screwdriver to push the part on the caliper that attaches to the cable then use vise grips to pull and hold the cable.

7. TORQUE EVERYTHING ACCORDINGLY ! ! you migh not be able to torque the lower control arms but they DO NOT have to be superman tight lock it and give it a good 1/4 turn

8. that should be it if i left anything out or you have any Q's hit me up on AIM: i984se

-Ryan

 

thanks bud