Yea I split the wood I was using too LOL. I stared with the 24oz ball peen I use for almost everything and ended up with the 5lb mini sledge hammer... HAHA.

DJ: what problem are you having with the strut retaining nut? I held the Spindle (carefully) in a vice and used a small pipe wrench on the nut to tighten it. Oh make sure you put some kind of oil in the tube beforehand, helps the struts from getting too hot...

 

Maybe I will go down a bit on the OD of the plastic sleeve. Make it a bit easier for you guys.

You can use a spanner to adjust then nuts when loaded. They will spin by hand when unloaded.


-billy

 

Maybe you could find a length of pipe that is the same diameter as the threaded sleeve. Then use that to hammer the piece down into place.

How well did you clean up the strut housing before you began sliding these parts on? I remember that I took quite a bit of time evening out any inconsistencies on the strut housing, making sure that it was nice and smooth before I put the parts on. There were a few stray lumps of old welding material and such that had to be removed. All it would take is one lump of something on the housing to screw up your installation.

And like Billy said, as long as you raise the front of the car you can spin the adjusters by hand. If you only raise one side, then the swaybar will cause the spring to compress on the side you have raised making it more difficult to adjust. I always just jack the car up under the engine cross brace.

Piece of cake...

 

I cleaned em pretty good. Got the one side fully on. The trouble i was having is i do not have the special tool for securing the lock nut on top of the shock itself.

Got the other sleeve on, some good hits with a 5lb-er got it done. Now encountering problems with the shock getting in there haha, maybe the strut tower was damaged slightly, not too sure. Should have it fully done tomorrow.

 

An impact gun makes that part easy. Other than that maybe an adjustable wrench on the small flat area on the top of the threads.


-billy

 

Cool thanks billy, Thats how i got it off but wasnt sure if I could do that to get it on. The mechanics book I have shows a tool (basically an open socket with a wrench welded on the side) that you can use.

Did the wrenches to get it as tight as we could but then you run out of clearance. Will give the impact a go in the am

 

Yeah, an impact gun is the way to go. Just make sure you don't overtighten them when using one.

Any chance that your strut housing warped during the welding process? Let's hope not...

 

I'm using the street version Kent, so not much chance at all.

 

NICE, got them in, thanks for the advice guys. Great product feels awesome. Only got to go for a short drive but it was a HUGE improvement over the old stuff that was in there.

 

Glad it worked out for you! What springs did you get?

 

^^id like to know also. im running the street coilover also with a 5" spring. stupid suspension travel.

 

I got 275ft lbs 7" spring

quite a sporty ride, like it alot

 

I'm also running 275 up front and love it...

 

So went for a quick rip through the rural windy roads and its not even funny how good it feels.

AMAZING product by re-speed, this was my first re-speed buy and i WILL buy again. Now i just need to sort out that bent rear end i discovered today.

 

sweet! i cant wait to put mine on

 

do you have any pics of the car yet? when i was on 7" springs, the car was lifted about an extra inch.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...0&d=1169949391

as of now im on a 5" ~330lbs? from skunk 2. it gave me a ride height i wanted but lacks the supsension travel. i should probably get rid of the perch and just weld it.

i had my own thread about the same thing...kinda got my solution but not satisfied with it.
if u want to thumb through my thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/respeed-street-coil-overs-617951/

 

Since the RB tower extensions aren't around, I have seen some camber plates for 240's that have a threaded sleeve at the upper mount! Looks like you can raise the top bolt up a bit to gain some travel back....anyone else seen these?

 

from the top of my head, if the point of the top strut were to be higher, it will have to sacrifice camber adjustment.

 

Dont have pics of my car, Right now it sits, i would guess about stock height but its at full up. Havent dropped it yet.


Cant guarantee when i might have pics as i just moved to a different province for school, so might be home in a month or so.....

 

I'm running 400/250/700 (400lb, 2.5inch, 7in) Eibachs on mine. Ground Control Weld kit ( you can adjust your lower perch level to the length of spring you want to use, that is how I can use the longer 7in compared to the shorter 5in springs)
Just a tad stiff for the street... but I like it!

 

probably quite good for drifting....

im quite happy with the level of the car even full up (i will go full down). I know ive had clearance issues on stock suspension where i live with driveways and everything and potholes, so i like the level quite nicely.

Cant wait to get the rear kit as well.

 

Im going with 500lb springs

I want go-kart handling

 

why bother with springs at all. Just weld in a rod there lol.

Go kart handling would be nice BUT thats why i have a go kart, wouldnt call it overly streetable. Bad enough over tiny bumps/curbs/rumble strips on the track

 

I have the race version of the coilovers, which lets me use the 7" springs. Lots and lots of adjustment available...

 

i have the front and rear street kit 275 front and 150 rears, the car sits on 18's and the coilovers are pretty much as low as they will go (dont want any lower so spot on) the car has been corner weighted to a 50 - 50 split with Noltec top mounts too handles like a dream
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...596488&page=20
yellow s3 2/3rds down
some more here
http://cid-cbfddd9d1485abdb.spaces.l...D1485ABDB!426/

Mark