Car is an 83 GS with a 12a.

My shutter valve stopped working properly so today i embarked on removing the rat's nest from my car. Got all the parts needed and set to work. Didn't run into any problems until I got the rat's nest out and need to set up the new hosing. I'm stuck at the bottom of page 19 of the tutorial

http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1.pdf

What I don't understand is this. It says to run a hose from the oil fill pipe (5/16" hose) and a hose from the carb vent(5/32" hose?) to just below the valve. Then run a hose from the bottom of the valve and use a t-fitting to connect all three.
I have three questions:
1. Where is the carb vent? I see a bunch of little pipes leading into the carb, but I have no idea which one is the carb vent.
2. What valve is it saying to put them under?
3. Since the hoses are different sizes for this step, wouldn't I need a t-fitting with all of the sizes on it instead of one of the t-fittings the tutorial says to get (2x 3/16" and 1x 5/16")?

I am so frustrated right now, any help is incredibly appreciated. I just want my car to run well

 

I have no idea, but maybe there is a vent on the bottom of the blue carb cover, and not from the carburator itself?

 

I went ahead and finished up the rest of the tubing other than the part I'm stuck at. All that's left to put a hose on that I can see is the first hole from the left on the carb and the oil neck fill pipe. What doooooo.

And I don't think that's right ^^^ doesn't seem like I'd want to vent the oil fill pipe to inside the air filter.

 

The oil fill pipe is vented to the intake manifold, just right of center. You'll want a pcv valve in the tube. The second inlet from the front of the carb spacer is the vacuum advance.

 

OK, as I'm doing a complete rebuild of my 12a, I'm 98% done with the removal part of the tutorial. Making the few modifications compared to reinstalling everything seems to be a time saver at the very least.

So my questions:
What is the advantage of removing the emissions on performance?
What are the negative factors (Ohio no longer does an e-check)?

 

Thanks a lot Cookboy,

After reading a bit more, I think the first carb hole from the left is for the air conditioning? When I was taking off the air conditioning solenoid I broke it, so until I fix that should I just plug that hole?
Also, where does the throttle opener for the AC connect on the carb? I took the Throttle opener off and didn't pay attention to where it connected and I imagine if I block the ac solenoid valve hole, I should plug this hole as well.

As to Tim, there is no advantage other than a simpler engine bay. As far as negatives, a lot of people on here seem to say it lowers mpg's but some also attribute that to poorly done mech secondaries (I'll find out if this is true soon enough). Please don't jack this thread; there is more than enough information on those two questions if you search and I just want to get my car running well again.

Edit: One more thing. Until I get a pcv valve, can I just plug the holes on the intake and the oil neck filler pipe as a temporary solution?

 

Remove EVERYthing. Run a fuel line from the lower barb (intermediate iron) to a barb on the air filter hat. Run a vacuum line from the second barb on the base plate to a splitter, from that splitter run one line straight to the leading vacuum pot and the second to the orange solenoid and from that solenoid to the trailing vacuum pot. Cap EVERYthing else off. Block off the ACV, split air pipe port, remove the shutter valve, tap it and put a bolt in it.

 

So update:

I was having trouble getting the car to start, which led me to looking for something I missed. I found that there was a hole facing towards the firewall under all the choke stuff on the carb that I had missed. I plugged it and the car starts up now. My question is what does this hole lead to?