Rats Nest removal on a GSLSE???
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 620
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From: Boone, NC
Rats Nest removal on a GSLSE???
I have know about this common mod for the 12a, but I never found out if it has been done on SE's 13b. Who has completed this mod? Was it much of a difference from the 12a removal?
thanks for the info.
thanks for the info.
Don't touch it! It is not as simple as a 12a and if it did make an improvement it would've been posted. Best mod for bolt ons, K&N panel filter (afm adapter and cone, worthless), good plugs, wires & coils, msd, header & exhaust.
JIMMY54 has done it. You can remove a lot of the stuff, but you may have to bump up the idle a bit. If you don't have cat converters, you can of course remove the ACV and replace with a block-off plate. The blue and grey solenoids on the firewall control the ACV, so they can be removed as well. On the driver's side, there is a green, orange, and two black cylindrical solenoids.
-The green controls vac advance to the dizzy.
* can leave in place
* can remove and disconnect vac advance
-The orange changes the vacuum reference for the FPR from manifold vac to atmospheric pressure during hot starts. This is to help reduce the chance of vapor lock.
* may want to leave in place
- two cylindrical solenoids (controls BAC), used to try to maintain 800 rpm idle.
* can remove these solenoids and BAC. You will have to block off where the BAC was and the tube that come into the BAC. You may have to bump up the idle to 1000 rpm or so to make sure it won't stall with additional load (AC, PS, higher alt load, etc.)
You can also check the 2nd gen section on doing the TB mod. This will remove the outer plates on the secondaries and you can also bypass the thermowax coolant line. It may run a little rough when cold, though.
That said, there is a quite of bit that you can remove. However, if all systems are functioning correctly, I wouldn't bother. The SE vac lines are not as messy as the 12A's and the system can help with some drivability (cold starts, hot starts).
-The green controls vac advance to the dizzy.
* can leave in place
* can remove and disconnect vac advance
-The orange changes the vacuum reference for the FPR from manifold vac to atmospheric pressure during hot starts. This is to help reduce the chance of vapor lock.
* may want to leave in place
- two cylindrical solenoids (controls BAC), used to try to maintain 800 rpm idle.
* can remove these solenoids and BAC. You will have to block off where the BAC was and the tube that come into the BAC. You may have to bump up the idle to 1000 rpm or so to make sure it won't stall with additional load (AC, PS, higher alt load, etc.)
You can also check the 2nd gen section on doing the TB mod. This will remove the outer plates on the secondaries and you can also bypass the thermowax coolant line. It may run a little rough when cold, though.
That said, there is a quite of bit that you can remove. However, if all systems are functioning correctly, I wouldn't bother. The SE vac lines are not as messy as the 12A's and the system can help with some drivability (cold starts, hot starts).
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,584
Likes: 542
From: Phoenix, AZ
I agree wholeheartedly with gsl-se addict on this one - there's not much to be gained through removal of the 'rats nest' on an SE, and more than one driver has made this change only to go back and put it back in when their car wouldn't run right.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it until it is! HTH,
If it ain't broke, don't fix it until it is! HTH,
