Rat nest removal from FB
#1
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Thread Starter
Rat nest removal from FB
Prepping car for future RB headers. The shop manual shows clearly how to removal air pump but I would like a guide to how to remove the rat nest.
Does anyone have this info, or link to old post with this detail.
Does anyone have this info, or link to old post with this detail.
#4
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if you must, its easy.
unhook vacuum hoses at carb. remove both bolts holding the vacuum assembly to the engine. remove vacuum rack as an assembly. cap ports at carb.
done.
unhook vacuum hoses at carb. remove both bolts holding the vacuum assembly to the engine. remove vacuum rack as an assembly. cap ports at carb.
done.
#5
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Thread Starter
Figured I would remove since air pump will be coming off, the "fat nikki" will be sealed off, can't why I would keep it on. But there are so many lines that I want to make sure not to cause any problems.
#6
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if you remove the vacuum rack as an assembly there are 8 vacuum lines, all in a row.
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#11
Well, not really sure my options. I want to keep fairly stock, but I'm wanting a horsepower bump. It will be street use only, so don't want straight pipes. Was considering the 2 RB options, leaning towards the full long, but not sure how loud that would be. Any suggestions?
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
The RB dual primary system; the one with dual pipes/resonators give best performance of the two from all I have read. I am planning on installing that system next month.
All far as air pump; once you install it on a 12A there is no reason to have air pump. If I get a slipping water pump belt; I plan to install a dual belt system but most people just ran fine with standard belt set-up.
All far as air pump; once you install it on a 12A there is no reason to have air pump. If I get a slipping water pump belt; I plan to install a dual belt system but most people just ran fine with standard belt set-up.
#13
The dual primary is what I'm looking at also, but I'm running a 13b -- does the same apply to that engine as far as the air pump is concerned? I'm assuming yes, since there will be no cats.
#14
Full Member
Thread Starter
If your 13B is GSL-SE that needs back pressure for ports to work then make sure you get the correct RB system (has a pipe in exhaust to allow for the back pressure for the ports) for car. The air pump is for emission and I am pretty sure it can be removed.
You can see the difference between the 13B and 13B GSL-SE system on the RB website.
You can see the difference between the 13B and 13B GSL-SE system on the RB website.
#15
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Unless you are putting a different carb on or you are heavily modifying and/or boosting the Nikki, I would just leave the rats nest in place. If you read through the shop manual, many of those circuits do more than just emissions. They improve cold starts, gas mileage, and smooth out throttle response and deceleration. If you have A/C, it'll boost the idle so the compressor doesn't stall the motor. These are all things you don't need on the race track (which is why many hardcore tuners remove them) but they are nice things to have on the street when you're stuck in traffic. If it ain't broke, why try and fix it? Just remove the air pump and associated piping and leave the nest. If you're itching to do something, maybe grab some colored vacuum line and replace all the dried out lines one by one so you know they are good.
#16
ancient wizard...
I put this system on my SE last winter,it's expensive,heavy...designed well,should last life of your car. 1st test drive after install you'll see you made a correct choice. You'll have to do a few other steps to insure driveability and reliability.
#18
ancient wizard...
Rb streetport system is the way to go. Read the info provided on their website,they treat this system as an offroad only mod-no provision given to retain O2 sensor. Some will say to run without it,don't agree,went different way to retain O2 function. Blockoff plate for ACV is necessary, removing air pump likely will cause the waterpump belt to slip from clutch fan drag and not enough grip on remaining belt. Some just tighten the belt... causes premature water pump bearing and eccentric shaft bearing wear. Removal of clutch fan and going to electric fan is an option chosen by lots. I prefer to keep the stock fan as long as working properly,it's well designed and keeps the engine cool as well as or better than most electric fans. A dual alternator pulley to run dual belts is the answer to slippage issues. I can take some pics to show you what it looks like if interested.
#21
ancient wizard...
That's the one i'd recommend. It's fairly subdued at idle and lo rpm,gets raspy as aux. ports open in upper rpm band. Civilized at cruising speed. The pulley can be had from several places, i upgraded to hi output FD alternator when i did all the other work so that's not applicable to oe SE alternator. Will look back thru my receipts and get back to you.
#23
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Thread Starter
chuyler1 - I will be placing a Jeff20B in place of stock Nikki in the future. Not sure how much of rat's nest I will remove yet. I have air and cruise; so I want to make sure they are maintained after swap. Got some one project (making rear fender wells solid) in front of fat nikki, RB exhaust, and dual pulley system.
#25
ancient wizard...
This is location for oe non heated O2 sensor. If want readings from both rotors,you'll have to install sensor after header is collected and will need to be a heated sensor that far from engine