Racing Beat Holley Question?
02-02-05, 04:33 PM
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Racing Beat Holley Question?
I just installed my RB carb and intake for a stock port. Its now idiling at 2k and doesnt seem to get any lower as my motor warmed up? Must I advance the timing or maybe adjust something on the carb itself? Cant find any adjusting screws... Thanks for any help bro's! 
02-02-05, 04:55 PM
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What I did was I got a copper tube 1/2 inch I think and ran it from the the exhaust pipe up to the open screw piece on the choke side of the carburator. leave the the end of the copper tube open so the carb can pull in the hot air that will signal the choke to step down. I secured the tube to the exhaust pipe with a large rubber clamp so it sat metal to metal and had a 1 inch piece of rubber connecting the pipe to the carb. You should see the threading on the intake port to the right of the choke.
02-02-05, 05:09 PM
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Before you do anything, call RB & ask them. I had a custom rotary engine builder install mine on the SP 12A so never had questions. But would say don't mod anything untill yoiu ask RB.
02-02-05, 05:22 PM
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yea i have that set up there is an adjustment screw on the back of the carb with a spring right below it. screw it left to decrease the throttle but i would always check with racing beat before any adjustments.
02-02-05, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by racintang
What I did was I got a copper tube 1/2 inch I think and ran it from the the exhaust pipe up to the open screw piece on the choke side of the carburator. leave the the end of the copper tube open so the carb can pull in the hot air that will signal the choke to step down. I secured the tube to the exhaust pipe with a large rubber clamp so it sat metal to metal and had a 1 inch piece of rubber connecting the pipe to the carb. You should see the threading on the intake port to the right of the choke.
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02-03-05, 12:27 AM
#8
on the firewall side of the carb where the cable connects, there's a screw that will adjust idle. turn counter clockwise. there's also a throtle stop on the secondarys. make sure this stop isn't holding the secondarys open slightly.
Last edited by rxtasy3; 02-03-05 at 12:31 AM.
02-03-05, 07:05 AM
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On the primary fuel bowl there are idle screws(one on towards the front and one on the back), one for each rotor adjust accordingly. Make sure they are both equal. If you turn them all the way in, dont tighten too much you will damage the seat. It wont run all the way in but that allows you to count the turns, they are usually around 1.25 or so. Then the other idle adjustment is the one previously mentioned. Personally, I WOULDNT do the suck hot air thing?
Also talking to RB is a good idea.
Also talking to RB is a good idea.
02-03-05, 11:10 AM
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The hot are thing is necessary to kick the choke down. Unless you want the entire engine bay to heat up first making your mixture run off while trying to drive takes to long to let engine bay heat up for the choke to recognize. That little bit of hot air going into the engine isn't going to hurt the performance of the engine by anymeans. RB is the one who told me to do it.
Last edited by racintang; 02-03-05 at 11:12 AM.
02-03-05, 06:36 PM
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Well, I adjusted the small screws on the sides of the primary bowl but it only brought the idle down to about 1800 rpm's, and the car doesnt idle as smooth. I adusted everything else I could find and nothing. Racing Beat responded to my e-mail and gave me a few things to try. If these adustments dont work I was told to call and they will help me out setting this thing up.
02-05-05, 05:16 PM
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Re adjusted Carb the way guy from racing beat instructed me and things are running alot smoother know still idiling a bit high but much much better. Cant wait to install fuel pump and requlator.
02-06-05, 12:05 AM
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glad to here it's getting better. might i suggest splitting the omp line at the omp. instead of a "T" shaped connector, i used one that's shapped like and "F" and turned it upside down. two short lines off the omp to the "F" connector, then one line up to the carb. much cleaner looking.
02-06-05, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by rxtasy3
glad to here it's getting better. might i suggest splitting the omp line at the omp. instead of a "T" shaped connector, i used one that's shapped like and "F" and turned it upside down. two short lines off the omp to the "F" connector, then one line up to the carb. much cleaner looking.
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