Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Never bought a cheap Porsche have you? LOL

As far as bolt on exhausts go for the first gen (I think this is the only complete one) the long primary system from RB sounds the best. Just from what I've heard on other people's cars. Can't comment on inside cabin noise. Many moons ago I wanted an RB system for my car, but the rust had other plans for that car.

I just don't like how the short primary piping system from RB relies on existing factory exhaust piping. Are yall sure your 30+ year old oem mid pipe is in good shape? Possible leaks? or warped flanges? These things in my mind would cause excessive noise and a possible lean condition in the exhaust.

JOE68

wow thats sucks ..... can't believe they would go in that direction...older mufflers were almost indestructible

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

My favorite rotary exhaust note is from an RB long primary. It just sounds good. Something about keeping the exhaust pulses separated for a bit and giving each primary its own muffling device, then joining them at about a 5/8 wave harmonic, translates to a really great result. You can achieve similar good sounding results with other long primary systems of different lengths from 1/2 wave to 3/4 wave. I believe 1/1 or full wave is about 101 to 102 inches according to RB.

Edit: I should add that I'm saying good things about the old school RB Prima Flow mufflers with the slant cut tips and the more recent straight tips with mini trumpet-shaped inserts of the PowerPulse; still with the round body painted black. I don't know how the modern oval shaped unpainted ones sound in person.

JOE68

thats the one i hav laying in my basement . its been on 3 cars .....guess its gold now . i would not spend that type of money on that new exhaust they're offering . looks cheap beside the headers

Walldog

I am performing this exact same install on my SE right now. I should note I went with entire RB system with pre-silencer etc etc. My car is stock port so that is the system I got from them. I just got the old exhaust out last weekend after much long hard fought battle.. This weekend a little bit of a semi-pause to clean up my mess and prep for install hopefully next weekend (Yeah I take my sweet time). I realized I needed new hangers so ordered all new from racing beat which should come this next week hopefully. Really excited to get this in. Besides the performance in enhancements it simplifies that side of the engine bay without the air pump, AC valve, and shield blocking view. Can see my OMP lines and pump much better now.

Question I hope you guys can answer. I have ordered some exhaust header wrap. Should I take the time now to wrap the header or install as is? In other words would you recommend wrapping the header? Seems a shame to cover up such a beautiful piece of hardware but obviously want to care for the SE in best way possible. Suggestions welcome..

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

Wrapping on a street car is not recommended. It collects moisture and rots the header from the outside. Leave it as-is or get it ceramic coated. If you are worried about heat, try adding a heat shield that keeps air moving across the header flowing out the back of the engine bay.

GSLSEforme

Do NOT wrap the header,in this application there are no benefits. Wrapping header guarantees a short life for it. It will overheat and crack at collector area and burn a hole thru #1 rotor tube right in middle of 90 degree bend after mounting flange at engine.
Buying a used system or parts,the header is often discolored from heat which in itself is not a problem,unless the car previously on was running excessively lean/hot which tends to make the metal more brittle and prone to cracking. It is tempting to wrap header to cover up coloration of pipes. This is a mistake on piston engines where exhaust temps are @800-900 degrees leading to eventual cracking,rotary engines run double that and damage occurs much faster.

After header installed,wipe down with acetone,follow up with a spray type wax such as turtle wax,to remove any oil(from hands)or grease from install before starting engine 1st time. Anything left on surface of header and muffler will show up once parts come up to operating temperature and will be there for the life of the part.

After a couple heat cycles and some miles accumulated,go back and check all fasteners on exhaust system for proper tension. They can loosen up after being at operating temp several times. Applies more to streetport setups where more weight/hardware involved. Once is usually good enough as hardware will hold tension indefinitely after that,helps interconnecting gaskets live longer

84rtaryrcket

So update. I have put maybe 100 miles on the racing beat single presilncer kit. No discoloration The exhaust note seems to be getting better. Maybe there's a bit of a break in period. I'll try to put more miles on tomorrow ????

Walldog

GSLSEforme

On an SE,should be no real discoloration of exhaust header or other system components as ECU monitors/controls arir/fuel mixtures tightly and no excessive exhaust temperature will occur. If you run your car hard,at high speed,or long pulls uphill over time the header will develop some gold and light blue tints on tubes closest to mounting flange at engine. The paint on front of presilencer may burn off but remainder of system will remain as installed. The latest SS mufflers will turn a gold color over time,which can be polished back to silver color as it was when new.
Good idea to replace O2 sensor on new system install as these sensors age over time and get polluted by oil being burned in normal engine operation and lose their ability to fine tune exhaust mixture. Frequently the amount of effort it takes to remove from manifold damages sensor internally but doesn't show externally. Recommend NGK or NTK sensors,there are cheaper available,recommended brands closely replicate calibration of oe which came with one or the other when new.

mikey D

I could make a clip of what the dual primary sounds like but not sure that's very helpful.

Walldog

Thanks for the input all much appreciate.. Got the OEM header off today.. Took off heat shielding all the way back just to inspect above while its exposed. Need to get new o2 sensor as no way I can get old off and probably not worth it as you mentioned above. Next weekend is goal to start install. Keep you posted..

GSLSEforme

Rock Auto. NTK 24006 O2 sensor $21.79

84rtaryrcket

I did mine in about 3 hours. Removing old and installing new. Some curse words involved with the 30 year old rusted bolts on the cat.

mikey D

i looked today and noted their site shows 2 mufflers
The power pulse you have and the powerpulse extreme, which used to just be the normal muffler. It appears only the catback comes with the new muffler.


Edit.

I take that back. If you click into any of hee full systems they have the regular powerpulse. Wtf. I wonder if you could complain and get the other muffler if that's what you were expecting.

Edit again

So anyone who is familiar with racing beat no one needs would not expect to get this muffler with their full exhaust
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1985/Cat-Back-Exhausts/16436.html
Also the picks on the main page still show it.

JOE68

oh **** ....was that their 2 weeks ago

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

This was the kit I ordered for my 12a but it has changed recently within the last year. My muffler has two entry points before the axle and collects before entering the muffler. The new designed system actually looks to be true dual and does not collect. I don't know what's going on inside the box and whether it's different than before, but I imagine it could very well produce a louder exhaust note than what I am experiencing, especially if the pipes are a straight pass through now. I was always told the location of the collector was tuned for typical street port exhaust port timing...not sure why they would change that if there was a benefit. I know bigger ports benefit from collecting much sooner.

Street Port Exhaust System for 79-85 12A - Racing Beat