When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The system works a lot better if you put the drier around the right way. System is a lot less eager to stall the engine this way.
I've been doing a bit of research into 12v electromagnetic actuators to see if maybe I could fit one to the fast idle linkage, utilizing the wire to the compressor to trigger a relay for the actuator and then make a linkage from the actuator to the throttle.
The biggest problem I'm finding is they're not really meant to hold something for very long. Though they're designed to pull and hold a few kilograms for 30 seconds or so. The force required to pull the throttle is pretty negligible. Lower the load, increase the time, maybe?
Maybe I'll get a bunch and do some testing. They are very cheap, after all, if you can deal with the month-long delivery.
Edit: I'd mount it so the maximum extension is what causes the slight increase in idle. This way the failure mode is to not actuate enough but never too much. If you were to depend on limit switches or a "controller" to stop the extension mid course, the failure mode would be equivalent to stomping on your gas pedal.
The ones I found have an even shorter throw than that one. But they probably have to be about as big as the one you posted to be able to hold something for several minutes.
In my experience with linear actuators, they move into position with great force and remain stable. They don't use magnets like solenoids, they use a motor to extend an internal threaded rod, hence their large size (at least 2x their max throw) and their ability to hold strongly at repeatable and precise positions.
Probably need a factory solenoid set up the factory way. It works with the aftermarket one, but the ac compensator doesn't really let go when the ac is off. Works for now at least, not really going to be driving around without ac on anyway.
I tried introducing a small vacuum leak into the manifold the other night and was able to get the extra 150-200 rpms I need that way. Now I just gotta figure out a way the control the vacuum leak. I got some inspiration from this picture:
There is a line from the manifold to the carb hat with a stock vacuum valve in place. But in the Dealer AC install book shows that there is some extra stuff involved that I'm not seeing in the FSM. I'm sure it's somewhere in there though.
EDIT: I just looked at what's left in my car and I think I'm looking at two different relays in nearly the same location. I should be able to put the two maps together if my assumptions are right.
Hopefully this helps somebody else.. Basically to trigger your electric fan and idle adjust solenoid tap into GW on the first AC Relay. My rats nest has been removed and snipped by a previous owner and I have converted the clutch fan to an electric fan. I should probably do a more complete post on this but I think by using GW I can have the radiator/AC fan come on and idle adjust adjust if the AC is on AND RPM is idling else the radiator/AC fan is off. This is handy so you don't keep the fan running while moving down the highway.
1 - Previously discussed GW wire.
2 - Ground
3 - To FAN switch (I'm using a Volvo fan relay (Ground triggered))
4 - Thermo-switch
5 - Ground
This leaves the default to use the normal Thermoswitch unless the AC conditions are met. (AC on AND RPMs below 1150) If those conditions are met then relay is activated and grounds the Volvo switch turning on the fan.
System is a lot less eager to stall the engine this way.
