Got some blanks need filling. LIKE:

1) Why is it in the mornings, before my car warms up, my, spongy, no power, pump 6 times to stop brakes, can be easily pumped to full pedal? And why does it try to make the engine stall when I do pump them up in the mornings?

2) Whats the Optimal Operating Temp of the coolant? And I dont mean "By the book". If I could Have the perfect temp in my radiator, what would it be?

3) How do I adjust my steering box(it doesnt really say in the manual)without wearing out the box? Whats the rule?

4) Whats the best Overall Adjustment for the front suspension with the stock setup?

5) Why is there Oil running into the carburetor? Whats getting lubricated? How does this all (Oil system) work?

6) When I turn the Distributor to tune my Car, whats happening inside?

7) Same Question about Vacuum Advance on side of Distributor.


If you have a GOOD answer to one of these questions please share your knowledge.
I have some knowledge about all of these subjects already so if you could please be specific and not vauge about the answers, Im really trying to fill in some blanks?
Thanks Alot

 

5) the oil running to the carb is injected at a specific rate into the air/fuel mixture to lubricate all the rotor seals inside the engine. without it, the seals and rotor housings would wear very fast and become uneven, which shortens the life of the engine. the oil metering pump (OMP) pumps a metered amount of engine oil into the carb for this purpose and because of this the engine burns 1 quart around every 1500 miles (i think). because 4 stroke oil is not designed to burn, over time deposits build up inside the engine and if it gets bad enough can seize the engine (carbon lock). because of this some people choose to disable the OMP and premix 2 stroke oil in the gas tank (lubricates the seals just as good as with the OMP if proper amount is used and it is thoroughly mixed). another option is to buy an adapter for the omp which allows you to have a seperate contianer just for 2 stroke oil for the OMP. there is a never ending arguement about using synthetic oil in rotaries with the stock omp setup. some believe (including me) that since synthetic is designed to resist burning, that the deposits will be worse than with normal oil, and lead to carbon lock faster. others belive this is a myth and that deposits from synthetic are no worse than normal oil. there are many products that can be used to clean up the carbon deposits - MMO, etc.

 

6. Inside the dizzy you have two magnetic pickups, one for trailing and one for leading. There is also a reluctor mounted on the dizzy shaft which which is geared to the engine. When the reluctor passes the pickups it induces a voltage which switches the ignitor on and off. This in turn fires the ignition coil.

When you turn the dizzy it changes the position of the pickups in relation to the reluctor which obviously changes the ignition timing.

7. The vacuum pots also change the timing by moving the pickups like above. The diaphragm inside the pot is attached to the pickup via a shaft so when there's vacuum it advances the timing. The pickups are mounted on a bearing plate so they can move independant of the distributor body.

 

1) It sounds like the vac assist on the brakes may have a leak in it. That would be why the engine wants to die it might be causing a vacume leak.

3) There is a write up some where on the forum about adjusting the steering. Just try searching for it. I found it once. It is a fairly involved process if you want to do it right.

 

Here's a writeup: http://www.mazspeed.com/steeringgear.htm

 

I know this is an old post, but in comparison to the age of the car involved...

So I should be able to pop off the air filter cover and see oil being pumped into the carburetor? I'm looking for how to know if it's working. Need to get gas soon, know nothing of how previous owner was getting the oil in (OMP or premix)