1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Questions about what i can remove... HELP!

Old 11-19-02, 02:35 PM
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Questions about what i can remove... HELP!

http://home.earthlink.net/~jutny/RX7/

that site has my pictures of my car, and now some of the motors in the garage... what i need to know have i got the rats nest removed properly?( i know i still have to plug some lines)

second, can i remove that thing that the air pump went to that appears to be bolted to the intake manifold?

third, the harness from my 80 dosent have the connectors for the dual pickup electronic dizzy that the newer 12a does, i can just run my own wiring right?

fourth, tell my parents that even with the emissions **** still on the car, with the thermal reactor and a pretty rusted exhaust it wouldnt pass smog anyway, so i might as well just get the full RB exhaust... cause they dont agree with me.
Old 11-19-02, 03:40 PM
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My FSP Fiesta eats Jettas

 
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I'll address questions 2 through 4:

#2. Not unless you are installing a header.

#3. Yes.

#4. If the thermal reactor is intact and functioning properly, it should pass smog testing. Listen to your parents, they're right. -WG
Old 11-19-02, 03:55 PM
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Turn the 7 into a no-emmissions track only car and put a trailer hitch on the Chevy.
That way you can get your parents to believe that you do all your racing at the track...
Old 11-19-02, 05:59 PM
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why cant that intake manifold aattached thingy get taken off... once the air pump is off i see no reason for it to be there (what is it?)

basically, i want to take everything off that isnt related to the engine running, so everything is mad simple.... thats the plan. I still want to have a choke, but thats about it....
Old 11-19-02, 06:26 PM
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DO NOT take the air pump off if you are using the thermal reactor! The air pump provides cooling air for the extremely hot inner element. If you take away the cooling air, the thermal reactor may overheat, or when you turn off the motor the heat may transfer back into the motor and if one of the apex seals is "parked" in the exhaust port the apex seal spring can be de-tempered.
That valve on the side is the air control valve (ACV) and should also not be taken off until you install a header. Basically, until you install a header you are stuck with most of the smog stuff. I just installed a Racing Bleat header on my '80, along with the mini presilencer and the setup bolted up to the stock pipe perfectly. I took out the rear portion of the heatshielding as it was rattling and bugging me. I also hacksawed the little hot air pipe off of the muffler so that's gone now, too. It's a raspy little sucker when you're on the gas, for sure! I'm still working out a couple of minor bugs related to the removal of the rat's nest and it's effect on the idle circuit, but the car idles at 750-800 rpm pretty nicely with just a PCV valve plumbed into the oil filler tube and the tank vent connected directly to the carbon canister in the aircleaner cover. Anyway, don't jump the gun! Once you get a header all that smog stuff can be done away with. By the way, if you plan on using 15" wheels, you will probably have to go with 50 series tires which can be a little harsh for daily driving. Just my opinion. -Mike
Old 11-19-02, 06:59 PM
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so i can still remove the rats nest, but i have to leave the air pump on until i get a header basically?

and for the rats nest removal, i can leave that snafu of vacuum lines off? and just run the ones that i need with generic vacuum hose? Also, i have to plug ports 1-5 from the carb... anything else?

i know that the 15" with 50 series will be a little harsh, but thats how i like it, i'd really like to find some cheap 15" rims that will fit, i know they have to be 4x110, but what offset/backspacing... cause i can get some Ecsta 711 rubber for $43 a tire in 195/50/15 which is a killer price.
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