1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Questions about hoses for 13B transplant

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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 06:12 PM
  #1  
64mgb's Avatar
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From: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Questions about hoses for 13B transplant

Now that I have the engine in the car (S5 13B into an '85 GS), I need to figure out what hoses I need for the various coolant and emissions fittings.

I'm using the stock radiator...what upper/lower radiator hose will work with the 13B?

In this picture, I think "A" goes to the charcoal cannister, and "B" goes to the purge valve. Can I cap both of these?


Since I put a front mount oil cooler on, I don't need the hose that goes toward the driver's side of the car. How would you go about capping/plugging it?


I believe that the fittings in the next two pictures go to hoses that run to the stock EFI intake manifold, so I assume I can cap them, right?



I'm planning on just clamping a bolt in a short peice of hose to cap those that can be capped...is there a better way?

Thanks,
Rich
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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 07:30 PM
  #2  
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From: Washington
The last two pics are throttle body coolant lines. do not cap those off route a hose from one to another. Your motor looks great first off, so why would you want to do a cheasy thing like a hose with a bolt and clamp? The only thing I can think of instead is tap and plug with appropriate plug. As far as the oil fill neck nipples ones a breather and the other does go to canister so purchase a nice looking breather filter for a couple of bucks and be on your way. If you plug it you will get LUNG MUSTARD!!!! a yellowy build up of moisture in your oil fill neck. you wouldnt want that would you. Food for thought.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 07:27 AM
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From: Socal
Get the heater core's hard line from a 79-82 along with the heater hoses. If you cant find one, weld a cap to the cold water supply to the stock oil-water OC.

For the engine, as usual, plug it up with a piece of hose, bolt and clamp. Or just run a hose from the back of water pump housing to the rear plate.

Filler neck tubes: leave them open but drill and tap a 90* fitting on the oil cap so I will vent properly.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 07:55 AM
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Anex 570's Avatar
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From: PA
Here is what I did, If anything doesnt sound right, I'm sick and I'll try to revise it. For the rad hoses, I used the stock bottom, thats already shaped right, and it fits pretty good. For the top I used what they called the cut to fit, they sell it at advanced auto, and just trimmed it some more for the GTU engine I put in. For the water outlets on the rear plate, use a piece of house, i believe 3/8'' to go straight as possible without a kind to the water pump.

For the heater core, I also suggest what I did. I removed the junk hardline that goes from the radiator to the heater core, and used a piece of the RED hose you can get from NAPA and just secured it to the fender wall. I suggest replacing all your heater hoses, you can do it the cheap way with the same hose I just named( I like because its red) but you can use anything that is tough enough for you. I used a L for to make a sharp turn to the outlet on the driver side coolant out, the routed the hose from the core to that.

As for the the case vents that you have open, If you can, get a oil catch can of somesort, and do it that way. I would rather see you have that vented, because it gets bad if you dont. I still am experimenting with that part, and I want to make it so I can get the gas vapors out(i think the stock setup allows them to go in, i have it stock still) It does however blow oil out if you dont have it clamped.

Hope i helped
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