Question about engine that has sat
#1
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Question about engine that has sat
I've been into Corvettes for the last 10 years. I still have my original 85 RX-7 with the thought that I will rebuild it like new one day. As a result of it sitting in a warehouse that is not that accessible on a regular basis, the car has basically just sat. Obviously, all fluids should be changed every year etc. My question is on the rotary. It hasn't been started in a few years. If I did manage to start it again, it would probably blow up fairly quickly due to dry seals etc from sitting no?? There are about 130,000 miles on the engine and it never had a tough life.
Just for kicks what do decent used motors go for? I know years and years ago I was looking at a 13B and it amazed me as to how much they cost $3-4k.
Thanks for your help.
Just for kicks what do decent used motors go for? I know years and years ago I was looking at a 13B and it amazed me as to how much they cost $3-4k.
Thanks for your help.
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Prior to starting the engine i would
1. change fluids
2.change/or check plugs replace if new.
3. drain fuel tank(unless you use a fuel preservitve)
4. pour a couple capfulls of motor oil down the carburator and hand rotate the motor.
5. proceed to start the car.
Used motors can be had for cheap 500 less or more. rebuilt by oneself about the same rebuilt by pro a few thousand depending on condition of core.
1. change fluids
2.change/or check plugs replace if new.
3. drain fuel tank(unless you use a fuel preservitve)
4. pour a couple capfulls of motor oil down the carburator and hand rotate the motor.
5. proceed to start the car.
Used motors can be had for cheap 500 less or more. rebuilt by oneself about the same rebuilt by pro a few thousand depending on condition of core.
#3
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
DON'T put a wrench to the main pulley bolt to turn it over manually!! If you should loosen that nut (it tightens the main engine - eccentric - shaft against its bearings) you'd loosen the bearing which would fall out of place = dead motor.
Best idea to engine turn-over might be attach battery - DE-tach the coils and spin a few times w/starter
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Best idea to engine turn-over might be attach battery - DE-tach the coils and spin a few times w/starter
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
#5
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
I'll have to disagree with Stu, even though he gives great advice. Pour some Seafoam down the carb, a little at a time and turn the e-shaft bolt clockwise 1/2 turn and add more Seafoam each time. The e-shaft bolt is torqued to 90 ft/lbs and has some of the toughest Locktite on the threads I've seen. As the Seafoam does it's work, turn the engine over, by hand, twice a day for about 3 days. If the engine sticks or locks when turning clockwise, try turning it ccw. If it still sticks, rock it back and forth while allowing the Seafoam to soften the carbon.
While the Seafoam is soaking, drain and flush the fuel tank, remove the fuel filter. Remove the soft fuel lines that go to the hardlines in the engine bay that go back to the tank, shoot some brake cleaner in them and blow compressed air through them Carb cleaner works well for this too. You'll need to remove the line to the fuel pump and tank first.
Once the engine turn freely, replace: fuel filter, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel, oil/filter, old rubber fuel lines, coolant, etc.. Before trying to fire up, disable spark by removing the rotor and crank the engine over to clean out combustion chambers. Install new plugs, rotor and fire it up. There is a great writeup in the FAQs on bringing a rotary back to life, read it.
Once you have it running, you'll need to flush the brake and clutch hydraulics, change the tranny and diff fluids. Chances are both hydraulic system will need to be rebuilt. clutch master/slave, brake master, calipers and rotors along with associated rubber hoses of both.
Fwiw, the only seals that can dry up in the engine are the dowel pin o-rings, oil control o-rings. oil pedestal o-rings and the intake to engine o-rings. Only the pedestal and intake o-rings can be changed without tearing down the engine. If you've rebuilt a piston engine, you'll find a rotary rebuild much simpler and a full rebuild kit can be had for about 1k.
The following are some links you should read.
Download YOUR copy of the FSM Then read it.
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html
Upgrade your beehive oil cooler here. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/cooling-oil-how-install-fc-oil-cooler-1st-gen-write-up-pics-478521/
My toy. https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/unvieling-12a-bp-widebody-462184/
.
While the Seafoam is soaking, drain and flush the fuel tank, remove the fuel filter. Remove the soft fuel lines that go to the hardlines in the engine bay that go back to the tank, shoot some brake cleaner in them and blow compressed air through them Carb cleaner works well for this too. You'll need to remove the line to the fuel pump and tank first.
Once the engine turn freely, replace: fuel filter, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel, oil/filter, old rubber fuel lines, coolant, etc.. Before trying to fire up, disable spark by removing the rotor and crank the engine over to clean out combustion chambers. Install new plugs, rotor and fire it up. There is a great writeup in the FAQs on bringing a rotary back to life, read it.
Once you have it running, you'll need to flush the brake and clutch hydraulics, change the tranny and diff fluids. Chances are both hydraulic system will need to be rebuilt. clutch master/slave, brake master, calipers and rotors along with associated rubber hoses of both.
Fwiw, the only seals that can dry up in the engine are the dowel pin o-rings, oil control o-rings. oil pedestal o-rings and the intake to engine o-rings. Only the pedestal and intake o-rings can be changed without tearing down the engine. If you've rebuilt a piston engine, you'll find a rotary rebuild much simpler and a full rebuild kit can be had for about 1k.
The following are some links you should read.
Download YOUR copy of the FSM Then read it.
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html
Upgrade your beehive oil cooler here. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/cooling-oil-how-install-fc-oil-cooler-1st-gen-write-up-pics-478521/
My toy. https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/unvieling-12a-bp-widebody-462184/
.
#6
Rotoholic Moderookie
iTrader: (4)
Q. Do you have an Rx7 you're trying to restore? A seized engine? a car that's been sitting for a few years? Wondering what the "ATF Treatment" is and how to do it without killing your engine?
A. Look here: Bringing a RX7 back to life
I found this in the FAQ.
Jon
A. Look here: Bringing a RX7 back to life
I found this in the FAQ.
Jon
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